a new, used, pre-owned 220d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Burge · #1 09-08-2005, 12:59 PM

I just purchased my first MB. Its a 1973 220d automatic (338,555 miles according to the title) from a freind of a freind who needed it gone. It had sat for a year. The paint isn't great, and there's a spot or two of rust, but the interior is in great shape. I checked all of the fluids, added a bit of Diesel, then jumpstarted it. it took a bit, and fussed, but it started up and ran on her own.

What I wanted to ask is the normality of the things I'm running into. I'm new to these, and wanted to see if there were easy fixes, or if that's just the way it is.

1. The engine starts and runs, but it shakes the whole car. the engine vibrates in the front end several inches each way. Really worries me.

2. White Smoke. and sometimes Black. Normal for this age of diesel? I figure it probably is somewhat, but wanted to see if there is anything I can do to eliminate it or reduce it. It is ok as long as it runs, but I am kinda proud of this little car, and don't want people to miss it in a cloud of smoke.

3. Like I said befor the engine runs, but when I put it in gear, the engine dies. It is like the engine becomes too bogged down by being in gear. The parking brake is released, thought maybe that was the problem. Is there something that I am missing? or is it that the engine isn't up to snuff yet?

4. I can't get into the trunk. The key seems to turn the lock OK, but pushing the button in does nothing. Before I go to wrenching on it, is there a secret that I am missing? is there another way in (through the back seat or soemthing?) that I don't know about? Is there a secret release button somewhere?

Thanks for helping a guy out. I'm excited to get this beauty going.

tkotanch · #2 09-08-2005, 02:25 PM

Hey Burge,

Sounds like a neat car. I'd like to see pictures if possible. One suggestion...I'd replace all fuel filters and possibly drain all the old diesel out of the car. You may want to run fresh diesel with some dieselkleen...clean out any growth in tank.

T

junqueyardjim · #3 09-08-2005, 03:00 PM

Hey Berge; Got to be a little patient with these new used old cars. Replace the filters and fuel to. If you can get the rear end up hill, like on a rather steep driveway, or on a set of ramps, then if you pull the fuel line off at the plastic see thru, (maybe it is not clear plastic) filter, it doesn't take very long to drain 4 or 5 gallons out of the tank, though I would stay with just changing the two filters. About your trunk. You really can't get in to it in any other way. Mercedes have a "master key" and then regular keys. If you don't have the master key it can be difficult, might take a lock smith. Make sure you use every key you have with the car to try to open it. Maybe the PO has still more keys that he didn't give you with the car. Also, if you are new to diesel, you will find that they are just a bit more sensitive to over load at idle then the typical big detroit iron v/8, which is kind of a slobbering beast that really never runs well but will stagger along for ages. Here you have a 4 cylinder, extreme high compression and when adjusted and set up well will run like a dream. But all power pulses are 180 degree apart as in any 4 cylinder 4 cycle, and then if they are not right on with fuel and air, filters and valves along with motor mounts and engine shocks can make for a shaky mess. But there is a wealth of good info here. Look for it at the "sticky notes" at the top of the page, or use the search and you will be covered up with good and straight forward help.

nhdoc · #4 09-08-2005, 04:14 PM

As the for trunk:

Turn the key all the way counter clock wise (until is is past horizontal) and push in on the lock at the same time, then lift the truck lid. Sometimes the rubber gasket seal gets sticky and it seems like the lock is stuck when it is only the gasket (don't ask me how I know this).

t walgamuth · #5 09-08-2005, 07:54 PM

are the wheels free? if it feels tight the rotors are prob very rusty and holding the car firmly. you might have to pull it to get it rolling. after that you can just drive the rust off. in a week it will be gone.

also with the rocking it may not be hitting on all four cylinders. so after doing the fuel related things above you should if still running rough test the injectors by loostiening the lines one at a time to isolate the cylinder that is missing. when that is done, then swithch the injector to another cyl to see if the prob follows the inj. if it does then it is a bad inj. if not you have a compression prob which could be sticking or broken rings or a leaky valve.

so there are a few more things to try.

good luck.

tom w

BrierS · #6 09-08-2005, 08:09 PM

Burge,
The others have really hit the items you need to take care of before you get too anxious to just run and drive your new girl.

Patience is important. Take care of the filters as they directed. Starting with fresh oil and filter would be a prudent step. Spend time searching this forum and print the threads that give you step-by-step instructions on accomplishing the task at hand. When you can, get manuals. Watch eBay for the official factory manuals. Post that you want to buy on this forum and see if anyone can help you with some used ones.

I spent hours taking precautionary steps with both of mine. It is important to learn the basic DIY things.

Last, when the forum members can tell you are searching first and asking after you will find you have a super resource. If you learn something new or think you have arrived at a way to solve a problem, post it so others can see what you have learned.

Last after last . . . keep a sense of humor even when you are in a pinch. Members are sometimes in a comical mood when you are not and take the kidding w/o getting mad.

Burge · #7 09-09-2005, 08:33 AM

Thanks for all of the great info. My plan is to spend the weekend working on the different suggestings I've gotten here, and that I've found searching the different threads. I did get her to drive around the block yesterday, just a test drive, and put me in a great mood.

here are a couple pics of the car (I think...not entirely sure if they attatched right)

t walgamuth · #8 09-09-2005, 10:12 AM

looks very nice. i had a 72. it was a very good car. my first mb diesel of many that followed.

tom w

katja · #9 09-09-2005, 04:16 PM

Nice W115! The vibrating might be (at least partially) due to worn motor mounts. Mine were shot when I got the car, and the vibration was really bad especially when I came to a stop.

My advice would be to change the oil & filter (you will *love* changing the filter [not]...it's a pain on the W115's), adjust the valves or have them adjusted (I'd almost bet they are out of adjustment - and while you're in there, check the timing chain and replace the valve cover gasket), and change both fuel filters. Of course there may be other things you will need to check, clean and fix before you're ready to really drive it.

My car smoked at idle a bit but a few good long runs up steep hills in second gear cured that. Now when warm there's no smoke at all unless I'm accelerating hard. Vibration and white smoke at start up might be helped by letting the engine pre-glow a bit longer before starting and make sure the idle control knob is turned all the way up until the engine is running smoothly.

I had similar problems with my trunk sticking - you'll get the hang of it.

Congratulations on your new old car - it sounds like you were just as excited as I was when I bought my '76 240D.

-AC

tkotanch · #10 09-09-2005, 04:52 PM

Hey Burge,

Nice looking car! Interior looks great. I didn't think about this previously. I used to have a '73 280 and it needed subframe mounts. I assume it has the similar suspension. Subframe mounts can be very expensive if you don't do it yourself.
I'm not sure it needs them but take a look. You might want to look at this website also. He sells a little manual that tells you how to change them...labor intensive but really make a difference on ride. Here's the website:

http://www.**************.com/

Take a look..definately for the do it yourselfer.

You'll have that car for a long time.

T

dabenz · #11 09-09-2005, 09:05 PM

Flush the brakes, change the antifreeze, change the oil and filter cartridge (you can clean the nylon part, and drain the oil cooler) - fill only half way up the dipstick, change the fuel filters (you can backflush the primary filter). Watch the vacuum pump outlet - if the hose to the intake gets oil in it then you need to fix the pump pronto. Don't lug this engine - you'll coke it up or heat it up and you'll be changing a head gasket.

leathermang · #12 09-09-2005, 09:34 PM

When you get ready to put in a manual transmission... I know where a 1972 column shift is sitting .... the whole thing could probably be had for less than $300.... I already set the guy up for not asking too much for it....
It is in Temple Texas.... just a rocks throw south of you....

JimmyL · #13 09-09-2005, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

When you get ready to put in a manual transmission... I know where a 1972 column shift is sitting .... the whole thing could probably be had for less than $300.... I already set the guy up for not asking too much for it....
It is in Temple Texas.... just a rocks throw south of you....

Burge, you should call on this tomorrow!!!

That would take your already very nice MB to a whole new level...

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