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  #1  
Old 08-29-2005, 07:30 PM
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sinking power window buttons...help!

The buttons that control the power windows on my '87 SDL have sunk a bit.The two towards the front(L&R front windows) aren't too bad,yet.The two towards the rear are lower,when pushed down to operate rear windows,they sink below the level of the console itself.What's underneath them?How should/can I remedy this?How do I dismantle the console to expose the buttons?What should be there to hold them firmly in place while they're pushed? Any help and advice is really appreciated! Thanks.


Last edited by dbgrate; 08-29-2005 at 07:31 PM. Reason: spacing
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  #2  
Old 08-29-2005, 07:33 PM
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The switches snap into the piece of trim, its a piece of plastic with aluminum backed wood veneer on it. Are the switches themselves going into the console or is the wood around them lifting up, it could be one or the other. worst scenario would probably just be to replace the console wood piece, or glue/repair it....

You can remove it by sliding it forward towards the dash by pushing down on it evenly, and applying forward force, it should slide forward and unclip, then the whole piece lifts forward and off. Thats about it, just reverse that to put it back in, it will have all the cords for the fader switch and windows connected to it too, just unplug them....
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2005, 08:19 PM
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pawoSD..thanks for the reply...the wood itself is fine..it does not move..the buttons themselves move down below the wood level..what is supposed to hold the buttons in place,so they don't sink when pushed? Any ideas?
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2005, 08:22 PM
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Oh..How would the wood piece lift off,over the shift knob?
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2005, 10:32 PM
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The front and back ends of the switch assembly "snap" into place in the trim piece, for them to sink like that I would think they came unsnapped or a tab broke off or something, only taking it off can tell.

Yes the whole piece lifts up over the shifter, be sure to disconnect the cords right away, they're not very long.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2005, 10:47 PM
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oooh

thanks. one of mine is sinking too.

tom w
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2005, 08:52 AM
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This photo shows the switch holder. The tabs are at the lower portion and you can barely see where they fit. As mentioned above, the individual switches click into their respective sockets.
Steve
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  #8  
Old 08-30-2005, 10:44 AM
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They must have changed the design then for the SDL's and 87' D's....on the SD setup the switches are part of the panel that comes off rather than being attached to a frame underneath like that.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #9  
Old 08-30-2005, 12:18 PM
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No the switches are permantly attached to the wood on later W126's. That plastic part is supposed to be stapled to the wood permently. But over time the staples work lose and you get that.
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  #10  
Old 08-30-2005, 12:40 PM
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Thanks guys...looks like a can of worms here..I forgot to remove the ash tray and went ahead forcing out the wood panel..I snapped part(the underside)off the wood...that can be glued back on..however,not knowing about the staples,I separated the wood from the black plastic with the switches! Hatterasguy..thanks for the update!I'm thinking I will glue the veneer piece to the plastic..Does that sound O.K.?? Oh,and how do I belatedly remove the ashtray,to replace the whole gizmo,if I ever get it back together???Any ideas appreciated!!
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  #11  
Old 08-30-2005, 12:59 PM
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Ok you didn't break to much you can fix it!

Frist pull out the ash tray that is right below the radio: Take the inner tray out with the chrome cigar holder. Then you should see two screws holding it in. Remove those two screws a gently pull it out. This may take a little force it kind of snaps in. Don't pull to far their is a plug in back and a light builb for the light. Both of these come out.

Once that is out you can remove that plastic tray you are talking about. Clamp and glue the broken wood tab back on. Also glue the plastic switch holder back on. Then carefully put it all back.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2005, 12:12 PM
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Hatterasguy...as usual,always helpful with good info...it's clamped up now,we'llsee how the surgery went tomorrow! Thanks.
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  #13  
Old 09-03-2005, 02:48 PM
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Thanks for all the help...a bit of phenoseal caulking adhesive,clamp and everythings back in order!

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