I have a 87 300SDL and the bottom seal/gasket on the injection pump is leaking oil.
Causing it to pool up in the cavity of the motor mount bracket.

Has any one changed this seal while the pump was still mounted?

Not too bad a job really. The little torx bolts next to the block are tight. I took a 1/4" drive torx (I do not remember the number right now), cut it down to fit in a ratchet wrench, and had no problem after that. Warning, it does make a bit of a mess when the bottom plate comes off. Old seal on both of them just fell apart. Replacement part does not look like the parts diagram as it is round, but fits just right.

Good luck

Bill

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Bill Brune

86 190D 2.5 5spd 314k
87 190DT 150k
87 300SDL 357k
95 E300D 115k
02 Jetta TDI 90k
99 Subaru Legacy

After replacing 2 seals in my SDL's IP the leaks kept coming so I pulled the IP to replace all the seals.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

fyi: Preliminary assessments indicate that the o-ring for the top of the oil filter on an OM617 is a suitable replacement for the IP bottom plate on an OM603--in case locating the correct seal is difficult, otherwise go with stock.

Mine leaks a bit from that seal as well. It looks like you can get the cover off with the pump still mounted. It will be tight but seems do able.

I plan on getting my IP rebuilt this winter so for now I will just ignore the leak, it is pretty minor anyway.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

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H2O2 fyi: Preliminary assessments indicate that the o-ring for the top of the oil filter on an OM617 is a suitable replacement for the IP bottom plate on an OM603--in case locating the correct seal is difficult, otherwise go with stock.

So I take a round seal/gasket/o-ring and forum it in to a rectangle and try to hold this shape while I try to mount the cover with six screws.
Sounds like a nasty job really. Definitely will look at the price between seal & O-ring. I do have that style oil O-ring.

Same symptoms, noticed left mount was cleaner than usual, but it was less than 1 year old, so thought it was still clean from newness. Checked closer when I noticed a fuel odor and could see dripping off bottom of pump when engine running. But... turned out to be 2 top seals on injector lines leaking a barely noticeable sheen across the top surface, down the side and dripping off the bottom. When wiping off the top quickly, you could spot the sheen reforming if the light was right. I took to the local Bosch shop since I did not have the splined socket (or any other tools yet here)

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BillS

I've installed that o-ring on a spare pump sitting on my bench, but I've never determined 100% whether it will seal properly. It installs by slipping over the rectangular ridge on the bottom plate and conforms to that shape rather easily.

I wonder if I'm the only one, but my lift pump gasket is leaking. Do any of you have leaks there? Because I wonder if that's what causes the bottom cover to leak or maybe it's just the diesel fuel cleaning up?

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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I am in the process of replacing the orings and seal (93 300D 2.5L)l eaking just below the spline nut on the IP. Only No 1 is leaking, but I am going to replace all 5.

The orings and seals r dealer items. The orings look different than anything I have seen.

I have the manifold and fuel lines off yesterday. Started the job at 5 pm.

While in there, I also will be replacing the glow plugs and the last fuel line from fuel filter to back side of IP.

The following was forwarded to me by Sixto.

Originally Posted by gsxr
Here's what the TDM says, word for word:

To obtain a correct seat of delivery valve holder sealing rings, tighten delivery valve holder to 30Nm and release, tighten once again to 30Nm and release again, then finally tighten to 30+5 Nm. Excessive tightening may cause a leak on elements at low and high pressure end by distortion of injection pump housing.

Interprest as you wish...

You read my mind on the torque values, was just going to ask.

Well I received my dealer seals for the inj bottom of the pump.
I tried to use one of my t-25 bits to undo the bolts but it felt real sloppy
and none of the other sizes would fit.
Do they make special bits that are metric? Or is my set just a cheapy?

I also installed new Blistens on the front and the inside bolts were a pain
to unbolt and bolt, my 10mm socket would not fit because of the angel of the
shock.Used a box 10mm wrench with very little turning motions.

I recently found out that the fastener that I though was a Torx is actually a 12 point metric fastener. I'll bet the injection pump requires a 12 point metric bit, as well.

The trick for the shocks, which I also found out after the fact, is to compress the piston rod and rotate the shock outward as far as possible. Then the innser screw is readily accessible and you don't need to spend 30 minutes trying to get the damn thing to start and turn 10 times.

I did use torx to do the ones I replaced, but I would have used tri or triple square bits if I would have had a set that went that small. I concure that they are probably the "correct" tool for the job..

Bill

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Bill Brune

86 190D 2.5 5spd 314k
87 190DT 150k
87 300SDL 357k
95 E300D 115k
02 Jetta TDI 90k
99 Subaru Legacy

I tried to change out the bottom seal on one of my 300SDL project car and I ran into problem and need some ideas. I need to remove the bottom 6 screws on the IP to change out the seal with the IP in the engine. I removed the small fuel heater and its holdig plate over the engine mount to give me more room to access the screw heads. I have the correct T30 torx bit and I managed to remove 5 screws but NOT the inside right hand corner one. That one is a pain to get to and the screw head seems to be slipping. I do not think I damaged it myself, probably was done by others.

I use this right angle screw driver to remove the screws as there is limited room.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92630

I am at my wits end as to how to remove the last screw. I can put everything back together and put up with the oil leak but I dearly want to replace it. Any ideas on this one. Removing the IP is out of the question.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.