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  #16  
Old 01-20-2005, 05:00 PM
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I don't think I have anything on my site but I'm sure I have some around, I'll take a look. I'm not sure which part number it is, it's been a year or so since I did it but I may have the box around. No hard pipe needed, it clamps right onto the turbo itself. I put a barb on the end of the filter and made up a oil seperator but it isn't working very well, I need to get a 240D seperator. They have remote seperators on those so it is just positioning it under the hood.

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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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  #17  
Old 01-20-2005, 05:11 PM
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here is a link to the 240D separator:
240D Oil Separator

here is a link to the subject also, look for my K&N setup there:
Do we really need the oil separators?

The K&N is a model RU-1000
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  #18  
Old 01-20-2005, 05:23 PM
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Yup, that looks and sounds like the same one I have.
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2005, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

here is a link to the subject also, look for my K&N setup there:
Do we really need the oil separators?

The K&N is a model RU-1000
Thanks! OK, I think I'm going to go for a setup like that. A big plus is the extra access it creates in the engine bay.

But where does the other end of that T connect to off the top of your air filter?
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2005, 07:54 PM
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OK, well I just adjusted the rack dampener bolt and MAN, that really made a big difference in the idle quality. I only had to turn it in about 1/4 of a turn at the most and the engine really smoothed out. Looks like I already have the upgraded part, because it seems to be gold-colored.

I also checked my injectors by doing the "unscrew the fuel line" trick with the engine running and all seem to be working OK. But now it looks like one of the injector lines isn't sealing back up entirely, no matter how hard I try to tighten it. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on that...

I've got a K&N cone filter on order now and looking forward to getting rid of the awful air cleaner can once and for all!
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2005, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaWagon
isn't sealing back up entirely, no matter how hard I try to tighten it. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on that...
Are you certain you didn't just overtighten it and ruin the sealing surface? Don't ask me how I know....
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2005, 11:33 PM
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Or that a bypass line is not leaking? With the wrench on injector lines usually touching the bypass (return) lines, it's not uncommon for old bypass line to start leaking after being disturbed.
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  #23  
Old 01-27-2005, 11:41 PM
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A mechanic friend of mine recommends replacing the MB rubber mounts with rubber oil tank mounts for a Harley Davidson....sounds goofy, but he says they last MUCH longer. He says you have to enlarge the holes slightly in the air filter housing, and also drill larger holes in the bracket, which obviously eliminates the threads, requiring the use of a nut and lock washer on the underside of the bracket to secure the mounts.

I haven't tried this myself yet, but he swears by it. I'll get around to trying it sooner or later....after I fix the other 35 annoying little things that are on my Mercedes to-do list.

Mike
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  #24  
Old 01-28-2005, 01:41 PM
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I use nylock nuts on the bracket, I don't trust regular nuts w/ a lockwasher I had some come loose on me, nylocks are forever.
I've seen the threads in these brackets fail, they are pretty crummy in some of the brackets I have seen (black painted ones are particuarly weak, the gold plated ones seem a little better) so I drill them out and use a locknut. In the filter cannister I just use a wavy washer and regular nut.

WannaWagon, the tee in the top of the A/F goes to the separator, it is a three port device requiring some vacuum to pull the gases off the cam cover and has an oil return at the bottom. If you go with the K&N you may need the support brace to keep it from distorting the soft rubber its made from tends to bend at the bottom where it is attached to the turbo.
Also I found it necessary to make a support plate that slid inside the intake opening (elongated slightly to allow it to pass) this fits against the top where the support brace and tee are fitted, otherwise they would distort the thin rubber. I applied some rubber cement too, to hold it down. I believe it was a galvanized disc intended for use as a hole plug in large electrical boxes, about 4 inches in diameter.
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  #25  
Old 01-28-2005, 02:51 PM
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wobbly air filter

hello,

i have had great success with the wobbly air filter housing, especially on the turbo's by adding an additional rubber support between the filter housing and the valve train cover [cam shaft cover].

If you have an old shock absorber bushing handy, this does the trick.

Drill a small hole in the filter housing and mount the rubber bushing between the housing and the cam shaft cover, be careful not to have the bolt potrude through the rubber so it will rub on the cam shaft cover, metal to metal. With the cover on you can see where to mount it by inserting tightly in the gap.

Works great.

Brian
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  #26  
Old 01-28-2005, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostnBenz
Are you certain you didn't just overtighten it and ruin the sealing surface? Don't ask me how I know....
Uhhh... ... I guess that's possible. Especially after I tightened it even more to try to stop the leak. Obviously the solution is a new hard line, I guess. Where do you get one, or is a junkyard part adequate?

I'm pretty sure it's not the return lines, as they are new and I could see the fuel coming out around the metal injector line. Oh well, something else for the to-do list, I guess.
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  #27  
Old 01-29-2005, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinbr
hello,

i have had great success with the wobbly air filter housing, especially on the turbo's by adding an additional rubber support between the filter housing and the valve train cover [cam shaft cover].

If you have an old shock absorber bushing handy, this does the trick.

Drill a small hole in the filter housing and mount the rubber bushing between the housing and the cam shaft cover, be careful not to have the bolt potrude through the rubber so it will rub on the cam shaft cover, metal to metal. With the cover on you can see where to mount it by inserting tightly in the gap.

Works great.

Brian
I did this also, on my 300SD. I used one of several already broken rubber housing mounts lying in the bottom of my toolbox, and I agree that it works GREAT! Reduces the bouncing around a LOT.

Mike
__________________
_____
1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
_____
1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

www.myspace.com/mikemover
www.myspace.com/openskystudio
www.myspace.com/speedxband
www.myspace.com/openskyseparators
www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic
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  #28  
Old 01-29-2005, 10:32 PM
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I almost bought a rack new rack dampner pin a few months ago. Mine is now fully adjusted inward and I still have moderate shake at idle. I just didn't want to fork over the 60 dollars for such a "rip off" part. I took it out of my 300sd and inspected it. It's basically a bolt with a spring assembly. How can they charge 90 dollars at the Stealership for that part. However, If I knew that it would smooth my engine at idle dramatically I would get it yesterday. The problem is that you can't really tell by looking if the old part is good or bad. The mechanism is still functioning...just a matter of whether or not the spring is still strong enough. A bit of a dillema for me.
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  #29  
Old 01-30-2005, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wols0003
I almost bought a rack new rack dampner pin a few months ago. Mine is now fully adjusted inward and I still have moderate shake at idle. I just didn't want to fork over the 60 dollars for such a "rip off" part. I took it out of my 300sd and inspected it. It's basically a bolt with a spring assembly. How can they charge 90 dollars at the Stealership for that part. However, If I knew that it would smooth my engine at idle dramatically I would get it yesterday. The problem is that you can't really tell by looking if the old part is good or bad. The mechanism is still functioning...just a matter of whether or not the spring is still strong enough. A bit of a dillema for me.
You can get that part for $37 from Performance Products, and probably as cheap other places, including our hosts here, MercedesShop.
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  #30  
Old 06-01-2005, 06:46 AM
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My air filter mounts were shot, and on the tip from mikemover, I went to a Harley Davidson dealer near my house. The mounts are not oil tank mounts, (at least that's what the lady behind the parts counter said.) She says they are saddle bag mounts.

They look just like our mounts, the rubber part is the same width and height, but the threaded portion is different. One side is slightly longer than the other. I put the short side towards the air filter cover. I think the size nut is 5/16 X 18. Got nylon lock nuts so i didn't have to mess with lock washers.

The part number on the bag says 90524-01, and they were $3.45 each.

Will have to get back to ya'll as for the durability of the mount


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How to fix wobbly air cleaner?-mount1.jpg   How to fix wobbly air cleaner?-mount2.jpg  

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