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#16
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I don't think I have anything on my site but I'm sure I have some around, I'll take a look. I'm not sure which part number it is, it's been a year or so since I did it but I may have the box around. No hard pipe needed, it clamps right onto the turbo itself. I put a barb on the end of the filter and made up a oil seperator but it isn't working very well, I need to get a 240D seperator. They have remote seperators on those so it is just positioning it under the hood.
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#17
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here is a link to the 240D separator:
240D Oil Separator here is a link to the subject also, look for my K&N setup there: Do we really need the oil separators? The K&N is a model RU-1000
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#18
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Yup, that looks and sounds like the same one I have.
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#19
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Quote:
But where does the other end of that T connect to off the top of your air filter?
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#20
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OK, well I just adjusted the rack dampener bolt and MAN, that really made a big difference in the idle quality. I only had to turn it in about 1/4 of a turn at the most and the engine really smoothed out. Looks like I already have the upgraded part, because it seems to be gold-colored.
I also checked my injectors by doing the "unscrew the fuel line" trick with the engine running and all seem to be working OK. But now it looks like one of the injector lines isn't sealing back up entirely, no matter how hard I try to tighten it. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on that... I've got a K&N cone filter on order now and looking forward to getting rid of the awful air cleaner can once and for all!
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#21
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Quote:
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#22
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Or that a bypass line is not leaking? With the wrench on injector lines usually touching the bypass (return) lines, it's not uncommon for old bypass line to start leaking after being disturbed.
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85 300CD 83 300TD 78 240D (daughter) |
#23
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A mechanic friend of mine recommends replacing the MB rubber mounts with rubber oil tank mounts for a Harley Davidson....sounds goofy, but he says they last MUCH longer. He says you have to enlarge the holes slightly in the air filter housing, and also drill larger holes in the bracket, which obviously eliminates the threads, requiring the use of a nut and lock washer on the underside of the bracket to secure the mounts.
I haven't tried this myself yet, but he swears by it. I'll get around to trying it sooner or later....after I fix the other 35 annoying little things that are on my Mercedes to-do list. Mike
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_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#24
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I use nylock nuts on the bracket, I don't trust regular nuts w/ a lockwasher I had some come loose on me, nylocks are forever.
I've seen the threads in these brackets fail, they are pretty crummy in some of the brackets I have seen (black painted ones are particuarly weak, the gold plated ones seem a little better) so I drill them out and use a locknut. In the filter cannister I just use a wavy washer and regular nut. WannaWagon, the tee in the top of the A/F goes to the separator, it is a three port device requiring some vacuum to pull the gases off the cam cover and has an oil return at the bottom. If you go with the K&N you may need the support brace to keep it from distorting the soft rubber its made from tends to bend at the bottom where it is attached to the turbo. Also I found it necessary to make a support plate that slid inside the intake opening (elongated slightly to allow it to pass) this fits against the top where the support brace and tee are fitted, otherwise they would distort the thin rubber. I applied some rubber cement too, to hold it down. I believe it was a galvanized disc intended for use as a hole plug in large electrical boxes, about 4 inches in diameter.
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#25
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wobbly air filter
hello,
i have had great success with the wobbly air filter housing, especially on the turbo's by adding an additional rubber support between the filter housing and the valve train cover [cam shaft cover]. If you have an old shock absorber bushing handy, this does the trick. Drill a small hole in the filter housing and mount the rubber bushing between the housing and the cam shaft cover, be careful not to have the bolt potrude through the rubber so it will rub on the cam shaft cover, metal to metal. With the cover on you can see where to mount it by inserting tightly in the gap. Works great. Brian |
#26
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Quote:
I'm pretty sure it's not the return lines, as they are new and I could see the fuel coming out around the metal injector line. Oh well, something else for the to-do list, I guess.
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#27
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Quote:
Mike
__________________
_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#28
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I almost bought a rack new rack dampner pin a few months ago. Mine is now fully adjusted inward and I still have moderate shake at idle. I just didn't want to fork over the 60 dollars for such a "rip off" part. I took it out of my 300sd and inspected it. It's basically a bolt with a spring assembly. How can they charge 90 dollars at the Stealership for that part. However, If I knew that it would smooth my engine at idle dramatically I would get it yesterday. The problem is that you can't really tell by looking if the old part is good or bad. The mechanism is still functioning...just a matter of whether or not the spring is still strong enough. A bit of a dillema for me.
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#29
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Quote:
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#30
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My air filter mounts were shot, and on the tip from mikemover, I went to a Harley Davidson dealer near my house. The mounts are not oil tank mounts, (at least that's what the lady behind the parts counter said.) She says they are saddle bag mounts.
They look just like our mounts, the rubber part is the same width and height, but the threaded portion is different. One side is slightly longer than the other. I put the short side towards the air filter cover. I think the size nut is 5/16 X 18. Got nylon lock nuts so i didn't have to mess with lock washers. The part number on the bag says 90524-01, and they were $3.45 each. Will have to get back to ya'll as for the durability of the mount
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'80 240D (sold) wish I didn't. '85 300D (240K miles) |
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