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#1
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Do you like my spring compressor?
Works well for this application(new lower ball joint 190D). New ball joint will be here tomorrow morning, along with the pressing tool, and I will be trying to "git-r-done". Just a little humor there, very little.
For those of you having a fit about the brake caliper "hanging" by the hose ...It is going to be replaced tomorrow. Kevin |
#2
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I'm a bit confused by those photos. How did you get the spring off the upper spring purchase to install the steel plate and nut on the top? And, with the steel plate and nut on the top, how do you reinstall it into the vehicle?
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#3
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Is the 190 different from the 123 body? Because you don't have to take the spring out to do a LBJ on the 123.
__________________
83 M-B 300D- daily driver 83 240D gray market 2002 VW Jetta TDI- beater |
#4
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Not really that complicated IMHO..
All I did was raise the control arm by placing a jack underneath the lower ball joint. Once I had the control arm lifted and thus the spring compressed, I put a 1" threaded rod up through the center of the spring and place one 3/8th's plate on the spring's upper "seat" and place one 3/8th's plate on the underside of the control arm and then place the washers and nuts on threaded rod and "viola"... the spring is kept compressed while I remove the strut, steering knuckle, and ball joint.
From what I could see, once you remove the strut from the sterring knuckle the whole thing could fly apart without having the spring "in check". The control arm doesn't have to come off to R/R the ball joint but it does need to be "steady" so you can press(technical term for beat the ball joint out with a hammer) and then press(with the correct tools this time) the new ball joint in. That's the way I saw it anyway. Of course I always go around the world to get to the corner drug store. Kevin |
#5
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OK, now I realize that you did not remove the spring from the upper spring purchase. It seems that such a setup would not be suitable for removing the spring from the vehicle.
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#6
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you are correct!
I am working on a heavy duty compressor for removal of the coil spring if I ever need it. This one only holds the spring in place while I jerk, pull, beat, and tug the control arm.
Kevin |
#7
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Quote:
Sixto 95 S420 87 300SDL |
#8
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How long does it take to compress that spring once you need to put a wrench on the nut?
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#9
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Not long!
Not long at all!
Kevin |
#10
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Very nice and fairly safe for that job. Useless for spring removal, but a good wat to do the ball joint (I'll have to remember this, it may come in handy).
There is a nice hole already present in the upper spring cup for the Klann spring compressor (or similar). Ball joint on a W123/W126 is in the steering knuckle, not the control arm so those are easy to replace. The ball joint tool from Harbor Freight has adapters that should allow you to press the old one out if you have the control arm high enough.
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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