Three years ago when I got into this hobby (old MB's), I would get out the breaker bar and loosen all the lugbolts, then slowly jack up the car and then remove the lugbots, etc. Upon replacing I would start each bolt in with my fingers, then tighten, then torque.

Thanks to this forum, I'm off and running. Perhaps Nascar is just waiting for me.

I got timed at 6.2 seconds the other day in removing a wheel and my second impact driver is set at the specific torque for re-bolting. MB designed these lugbolts so awesome that you don't even need to start them. Just zip em in!

Thank you all for your 'collective wisdom'.

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

You're gonna hurt yourself.

__________________
Toblin

'79 300D, "Liesel von Diesel", 235K

I kid proofed the house....but they still get in

Cool, but I would shot anyone who used an impact gun on my wheels.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Thats because your wheels probably look nice, etc.

I'm in it for the functionality. If I had to keep my cars looking nice, I'd have to move South where they don't cover the roads with the white stuff....sigh....

Interesting quote Toblin


Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

The racers do some very specific things to allow them to change four wheels in 15 seconds.

They have tapers on the lug studs before the threads. The lugnuts are glued in place on the wheels so that they start on the lug stud tapers when slamming the wheel in place. Then they are ready to drive them home with the impact wrench.

These guys usually have a rubber hose in their teeth with an extra lug nut on each end of the hose that they can quickly pull off and put in place if a nut is lost in the process.

Since your car is probably not set up this way, whether you tighten the lug nuts with an impact or not, you should always start the bolts with your fingers before tightening them with whatever tool you might use. If you don't, it is only a matter of time before you cross thread a bolt, ruining the bolt and the hub.

Have a great day,

Larry:

That too was my early concern (cross threading a bolt). I don't know if all mine are worn or what, but there is great leeway in driving them in apart from starting them with my hand.

I have wheels off a number of times per week with five daily drivers and snow changes, etc. I'm not reckless but neither am I over picky. I put five lugbots in my hand and feed them in (with the lessor impact driver) rather fast. I was just joking on the nascar deal as most projects have taught me to slow down and think first. But the wheel thing is very fast.

Thanks for the warning however.

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

I would still hand start them and then tighten in two steps in a criss-cross patern. The first step to run them and the wheel down evenly, and the second to make sure they are tight.

That is cool, but I still will tighten them by hand with a 1/2 drive.

Here is a good tip: wrap the socket in electrical tape, that way your paint won't get chipped.

I know I am anal about my wheels, but they are the first new perfect set of wheels I have had. It is nice having perfect wheels and tires, not to mention I worked hard for them.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200