Ok i have a 1985 300sd w126 196,000 miles on it. I just did an engine swap (old engine was supposedly seized), but there was no fuel coming from the injection pump. I called the injection pump shop and they said it would cost 150-200$ to even test the pump, so the guy gave me a couple of tips. He said to try and use some wd-40 as starting fluid to at least get it to run a while to see if that would bleed the air out... (i just replaced the primer pump w/ the new version, and bled the lines many times) anyway, it would not even start on wd-40 in the intake! i tryed many different amounts of wd-40 and nothing. Do you think that i have a vacuum line on wrong?? or could it be the new custom air intake tube i just put on it.
www.pgmfi.org/~firepyroandy << this is my website with pix, please click on "new engine installed" to see wear i am. I really dont know much about the car, i got it for 300$ and am starting to think that i should have boughten a running car..

please help me out if you can.

Keep waiting. There are many members that have the experience to help you. I don't have a clue yet on the IP portion of the fuel delivery system.

One thing, have you done searches on the topic? Most of the members like to know that you have put the effort into checking. Possibly you have but if so, state that you have. If not, please do so and post something referencing what you found or didn't find. Kind of like affirmation . . .

Welcome to the club . . .

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Try this, loosen one injector fuel line nut at the injector, Hold a rag there to catch any fuel, have some one crank the engine over, You getting any fuel to the injectors????? How long did the engine you just put in set? How long has it been since it last ran?
Swap out the pump with the old one if this one won't pump fuel. Same engine, same pump, should work.

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Den
1993 MB 300D 2.5
2001 VW Jetta TDI 5 spd.
2001 new bug TDI 5 spd.
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One more thing, how long did that car sit since it last ran??? You may have a tank full of , well, I'd call it just plain crap. You may have to drain it, clean it, de bug it, and put all new fuel in there with some fuel boost.
Have fun.

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Den
1993 MB 300D 2.5
2001 VW Jetta TDI 5 spd.
2001 new bug TDI 5 spd.
Motorcycles

it has only been about 3 weeks since the car has ran, the fuel is ok im 99% positive. I have tryed everything and am probably very soon going to order the new IP... also, i have searched, over and over, usually i find people that have IP's that work on at least 1,2,3 sometimes 4 of the five. I havent found one yet that has an IP that doesnt work at all. And like i said, im feeling worryed b/c my engine wont even run on wd-40... Anything i should try?

Did you do a compression test? Maybe it has very low compression. Also have you checked the valve's?

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before you change the ip:

are the glow plugs working?
are the fuel hoses properly set up?
is the fuel pump properly delivering fuel to the ip?
are the injectors/ip in your new engine clogged from sitting?
is the valve adjustment reasonably good?
are the vacuum hoses to the fuel cutoff (brown)reversed?

don

what is the fuel cutoff?? I know that the engine part of it is fine, b/c the guy i bought it from said that it started first time. If i am trying to start it on fluid it should just kinda vroom for a second, i think it might be starting and stopping and im just not hearing it. Whats good compression, and how do i check it ?? (where do i put it??) The vacuum lines were in a mess when i bought it, so i really just dont know where it all goes... if the vacuum lines were not hooked up right, would it not even start on starting fluid???? thanks for the quick feedback...

try disconnecting the shutoff valve. i had this happen once when some lines got reversed

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

i already tryed that one, but thanks.

Your vacuum system is not right.
The injection pump vacuum lines are mixed up.
Match the following pictures and it should run.
You have a bad MOD, look for the danger picture.
This will take more than one post, but I am trying to give you pictures of each change needed.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
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Here are more pix, don't have time to edit in the color codes tonight.
EGR and boost limit valve vacuum lines.
Vacuum controller is Right front corner by horn.

Attached Thumbnails

       

your the man! this is exactly what i needed, thank you so much... i will do this tomorrow right when i get home from school. is there anyway i could thank you?? id be willing to pay... lol. thank you so much, you have no idea what this means to me. Thanks for taking the time for correcting the "newbie" , and i want you to know that i didnt rig up the vac lines like this, this is how it was when i got it. Anyway, thanks for setting me straight... ( i did rig the oil breather line, sorry about that... )

Thanks again.

Based on your statement that the engine ran a few weeks ago per the previous owner, here is my list. Some of this has already been said.

Make sure the supply and return fuel lines are hooked up correctly.
Make sure the linkage functions so the IP is at the idle stop position.
Disconnect the vacuum line to the back of the IP. leave it off.
Crack an injector to see if fuel comes out when cranking.
Check if glow system is working and check each plug to see if they all work.
Check valve adjustment.
Remove air filter. Leave it off.
Check for fungus in tank by seeing if hand pump creates a vacuum.

Additionally IP failure rate is very low and you don't need to worry about vacuum lines right now. You can disconnect them all. They have nothing to do with the engine. They are there to make the transmission and EGR work. Diesels don't depend on vacuum. You can correct them later when the engine is running.

Good luck,
Peter

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From the photo, it appears that the breather port on the valve cover was completely blocked.

In such a condition, the engine might never start. I could be as simple as just opening up this breather port and it will run.