What, no Rocky, Just Bulwinkle!

I have no idea what compression is to be expected from the 617? You can be however off a few pounds from cyclinder to cylinder. 10 percent may be acceptable. Do you have the specs?

Yeah, I knew I forgot to ask about something!

Does anyone know the compression specs? what is acceptable and what is not?

Also, bullwinkle told me that you should let the pressure build up and only count the third revolution for the compression test, Is this correct? (Just making sure.)

I am going to do some research, but I thought Id throw this out there just in case...

around 400 psi for a good engine.

Below 300 is bad.

From elsewhere in the forum. (Do a search!)

From the shop manual and converted from bar to psi:

Normal is 350-435psi

Minimum is 220psi

Variance 40psi

Good luck starting below 250psi.

Sixto

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

OK,

I pulled the injection hard lines first, to make it easier to get at the gp's and also because I will probably be removing my IP soon. I pulled the glowplugs out, btw, they were VERY carbonized. And hooked up the remote starter switch. I also wedged in a stick to the stop lever, to shut off the fuel, even though the hard lines were off. I cranked her over a couple of times.. to get the build up out.. which was not noticeable. I hooked up the compression tester, and compression on number one cylinder is 325 psi, But this is cold... so, that number is low. I saw that even with the stop lever pushed that there was still fuel squirting out of the IP, and LOTS of it. I am talking shooting up in the air a good 8-10 feet. This leads me to believe that I have good compression, but the IP is supplying way too much fuel.. causing the smoke and lack of power. I called Whunter, he had me disconnect the other linkages so that only the stop lever was still connected. I then cranked the engine over again, while manually pushing down the stop lever, as far as it would go. Still shoots fuel. I believe that since I tampered with the idle speed (directly tied into the shut off lever) that I got it so far out of wack that the stop lever was not operable. I know that before, the stop lever worked.

With the adapter that bullwinkle loaned to me, I am only able to connect the compression tester up to the number one cylinder, without removing the IP.

What are your opinions?

OBTW< GRIMGAUNT< PAYMENT SENT FOR SHIPPING (also sent PM)

Just went out there again, and as whunter suggested I simply took the idle adjustment screw completly out, so that it has no chance of stopping the stop lever from working, I hooked up the remote starter switch again, and turned the engine over while manually holding down the stop lever, still spewing/squirting fuel everywhere... So, I am going to sit back and wait for my new Ip to come...

Well it sounds like that IP is bad, I wonder how we got it to stop? Your getting close, I can feel it in my bones.

__________________
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Suspect something broke/jammed/corroded inside the injection pump.
Forensic teardown should find it; pictures will be posted when it gets dissected.

I have not received any word from grimgaunt at all.. I have tried many times to call him. I also even PMed Tomj as a last resort... no answer..

I have really been anticipating driving my car, but in the meantime Ive been spending a bunch of time working on my moped. Last weekend I completly rewired it, and now just today (last day of school b4 spring break) I completly rebuilt the engine. Took me about 4 hours.. these little things are fun to work on... I almost enjoy it as much as working on Sady...

I await the day I hear word from someone that the Injection Pump has been shipped, and soon I will be driving my car.. hopefully soon.

Just wanted to let you know whats up...

I might rebuild the 6 hp engine on one of our mowers this spring, I wanna try it! It has some issues....I wanna take it apart and see whats wrong with the thing, it runs....makes strange sounds, then dies w/out explanation, and is a BEAR to get started again, then it coughs, slows down, and dies again....I'm going to get to the bottom of it. Once I do maybe I'll build a moped or similar creation for it, 6hp,

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

He is alive and well...I just did email tag with him a couple days ago. And shipped him some Citric Acid he wanted to buy a while back...he may be on the road and away from a computer. Patience..I am sure he will answer when he is able..

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I am in SF and get back tonight, your payment had not reached as of Sunday 3/20.
I believe (from talking to my wife last evening) that your check is there.

The past 2 times I have spent almost $45 (oil filter adapter overnighted, Turbocharger fedex) to send you parts without expecting payment. I am happy to help, but I expect that help and effort to be reciprocated with effort on your part, not a weak excuse like " can't get to injectors 2 - 5 because theres an IP in the way"


I still think that it is a waste of time on my part to pull the IP from my spare engine before you do a compression test on your 5 cyls. Since I am going to expend that much effort, I think you should too.


However, when I get back I shall pull the pump and send it off.

Keep in mind, just because #1 is ok (marginal) does not mean 2 through 5 are as well. You may also find other things wrong. Have you checked the vacuum pump ?

__________________
1982 300SD (214 k, excellent shape) kidmobile running mostly biodiesel, gets 31 mpg hwy with 2.82 rear from a euro 500SEL



1976 115 body 240D 4-speed (traded for Jeep parts) - Engine lives on in my CJ7

I thought you did a compression test already? You really want to because if it is low you are wasting your energy.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

pawo, we had a similar problem at work with the power wsher. Remove the gas cap and try it. Ours had been set down on the exhaust mainfold and partially melted the vents shut, thus no air was getting in the tank. Also, try draining the gas tank and refilling it also sounds like you might have some H2O in there.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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It wasnt the the injector I was pulling to do the compression test... it was the glow plugs. And I did pull all of the glow plugs... the problem is that the adapter for the compression tester is too large, and will not fit with the injection pump in its stock location.

Today is a nice day, so I will go outside and pull the old IP, and get the rest of the compression test numbers out on the net before this evening. I am sorry that I have not done this as of yet, and like I said, I will get to this asap. Grimgaunt, I am sorry that you feel that I was not doing my part, I will try to figure out a way to make it up to you.

Thank you everyone for your generosity and willingness to help someone in need.

As soon as a bite to eat Ill get out there and do the rest of the compression test.