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  #1  
Old 09-02-2004, 01:51 AM
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torque converter ATF

I just had my 84 300TD ATF changed. I gave my indy 7 quarts to replace the ATF. But his asst. gave me back three of the ATF bottles he did not use. It did not occur to me at that time but now I realized he may not have changed the ATF in the torque converter. Is this a correct assumption? I used to use up all 7 qts. every ATF change. Is there any harm if I change the ATF in the torque converter 30k from now (next ATF change) The car has orig tranny with 302k on it.

thanks a lot guys! nice change on the website. keep up the good work.

Asti-1984 300TD -302K and going
Ruby-1999ML 430 -65k

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  #2  
Old 09-02-2004, 01:57 AM
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That sounds like exactly what he did. Too much trouble to change the fluid in the T/C.

Who can say, with any certainty, what three old quarts of fluid in the system will do. Some people go 90K and don't change their fluid. Some transmissions live with this, some don't.

My best comment is that you are four quarts better off than you were prior to the oil change.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2004, 02:53 AM
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I'm curious to know how much you're saving by waiting 30K miles.

One alternative is to replace the other 3 quarts now. Assuming the tranny holds 7 quarts, the first change got you to 57% clean fluid. Draining and refilling the torque converter will get you to about 75% clean fluid. If you don't do it yourself, it should be a cheaper job since you don't need to replace the filter. Another alternative is to take the car to a place that does a tranny fluid flush with the engine running. They hook up a pump through the tranny cooler lines. I don't know if MB lines are compatible with those machines.

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  #4  
Old 09-02-2004, 09:13 AM
cmichalik
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Take it back the the shop & explain to the manager or owner (if needed) what happened. Tell them you understand the tech probably didn't realize the TC has a drain plug of it's own. Give them back the 3 qts & tell them to do a new oil change w/ 7 clean qts. Don't just drain out 3 & dump in 3.

If shown a little understanding a reputable shop will usually right a wrong.

Good Luck.
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2004, 09:19 AM
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I am with cmichalik on this.... this is the only way to do it correctly.... and it brings the assistant's lack of knowledge gently to the supervisors of the shop.. so maybe it won't keep happening to other people also.....and it gets you ALL clean fluid ... which was the purpose of taking him the 7 quarts in the first place....
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2004, 10:37 AM
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but how do you get to that damn TC plug? I try bumping the starter but it never seems to rotate into view. Whats the easiest way to turn the motor? It didn't seem to have enough clearance at the front pulley to get a wrench in.
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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2004, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmichalik
Take it back the the shop & explain to the manager or owner (if needed) what happened.

"Torque converter? Nah, you never change the fluid in the torque converter. Hell, I've been in this business for 20 years and we've never changed the fluid in the torque converter in all the years I've been working. Hell, there is no way to get the fluid out of the torque converter on American cars. That drain plug that you are talking about, hell, nobody ever takes that out........................"
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2004, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
"Torque converter? Nah, you never change the fluid in the torque converter. Hell, I've been in this business for 20 years and we've never changed the fluid in the torque converter in all the years I've been working. Hell, there is no way to get the fluid out of the torque converter on American cars. That drain plug that you are talking about, hell, nobody ever takes that out........................"
Yep. MBs are the only cars I know with a drain plug on the torque converter....
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2004, 11:01 AM
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Brian,

I will never bring my car to your shop for a ATF change. I will take it to a place that is more competent or do it myself.

It takes less than a minute to R&R the TC plug and if you remove it first, all the ATF will run out while you service the transmission.

Would you only drain half the oil from the engine on an engine oil change? I bet you don't drain the engine oil cooler either.

Some American manufactures are too cheap to put a drain plug in the transmission pan too.

P E H

Last edited by P.E.Haiges; 09-02-2004 at 11:07 AM.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2004, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges



It takes less than a minute to R&R the TC plug and if you remove it first, all the ATF will run out while you service the transmission.


P E H
I haven't been to the shop at all. I was just writing the above tongue in cheek, PEH. But, you are right. There is no good reason for not changing the t/c fluid if the mechanic knows there is a drain plug for it.

BTW, you are correct in that I have not changed the oil in the cooler in the past. Do they normally have a drain plug or do you remove the lower hose? Probably a damn good idea to do it if its not too much trouble.
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  #11  
Old 09-02-2004, 11:19 AM
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Odie,

You can use a screwdriver to turn the TC. Just put it in one of the holes near the drian plug and lever the TC plug into position.

But the recommended way it to turn the engine is by the crankshaft bolt. You need a ratchet and a 27 mm or 1 1/16 socket. A deep socket should work alone but a regular socket may need a short extension bar. I Never have any problem doing it this way.

P E H
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2004, 12:17 PM
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Smile

thanks PEH...thats actually my project for tomorrow. I'll try to find a 27mm socket or try the screwdriver trick.
__________________
1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2004, 12:25 PM
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Brian,

Just loosen the lower fitting (large nut) on the oil cooler. If you don't remove the fitting, there is no chance of cross-threading it.

The oil will drip out slowly, but since when I change the oil I always let the car sit overnight with pan plug removed and cooler fitting loose, its no problem to me.

P E H
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2004, 12:31 PM
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odie,

You also need a 5 or 6 mm allen wrench to remove the plug. The plug may be difficult to remove the first time. I had to heat mine to remove it the first time, it was really in tight.

P E H
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2004, 08:38 PM
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Odie,

If you have to buy a 27 mm or 1 1/16 inch socket, buy the deep socket because it also works to remove the injectors should that ever be necessary.

P E H

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