Feeling bummed about my 300TD... major floor pan rust - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

aaronkobi · #1 04-07-2008, 10:10 PM

I purchased what I thought was a solid and relatively rust-free 300TD off of ebay this past January. I was aware of a single rust spot on the rear passenger floorpan, but, didn't seem major at the time. Upon removing all of the floormats and pulling away at the soundproofing material, I have discovered a world of rust, rot and overall decay. It's almost to the point where I'm wondering how in the hell the floor kept from dropping out while I was driving it! All of this was hidden between the layer of interior soundproofing and the rubber undercoating.

First of all, I'm bummed because I've already spent more than I've wanted to on general repairs, now this... one more MAJORLY expensive bill to foot. Secondly, I'm feeling dumb for not spending more time picking around under the floor mats before buying the car. Had I known, I probably wouldn't have even bought the car.

It's really too bad because the car is great, I love it, but, it really is turning into a money pit and major headache. I'm not even trying to get it to look like a show car, just to run reasonably well and be safe, which as the floor pans are now, it is not.

Words of wisdom (or comfort) would be greatly appreciated.... *sigh*

babymog · #2 04-07-2008, 10:14 PM

Look at the bright side; what you'll spend on repairs, some people will spend on a month's lease payment.

aaronkobi · #3 04-07-2008, 10:14 PM

Also, forgot to mention, on the rear drivers side passenger floor pan, it's covered with what looks like oil (but doesn't smell like oil). Any thoughts on where in the heck this could be coming from? There are quite a few lines running over that floorpan, but, none of which I can think of that would be carrying any type of oily substance... ugh.

kerry · #4 04-07-2008, 10:16 PM

My brother in law owned a 65 Corvair in rust ridden Upstate NY. The whole floor rusted. He removed all the seats, cut all the rusty floor out of the car, leaving only the side rails. He bolted some angle iron to the side rails and put down a treated plywood floor and bolted the seats down to the plywood. He drove it for a very long time with his rustproof floor. It's always an option.

cewyattjr · #5 04-07-2008, 10:17 PM

That's a real bummer, and I have had similar experiences. I had a 240D for a time, sold to me with "just a little rust spot." Closer inspection (after purchase) and I could see that the front passenger seat was about ready to fall through!

Next experience is more like "shame on me." My 300D was "garaged" and had yet again only "a little corrosion," and a California car. Even so, there is a strip of rot that goes right through to the interior. There is a POR-15 floorboard replacement product that might help if the problem isn't too extensive. This is what I used. It is just a combo of the paint product and fiberglass cloth, though. Time will tell whether it is successful, but in New England salty-road winters, I'm just forestalling the inevitable, I believe.

Other people more expert than am I will have some recommendations about welding on sheet metal. I think in all cases the main thing is to remove all vestiges of the cancer. If the rust is up into the frame there may be little to do. My opinion is far from expert, but I have spent a lot of time personally "fussing" about it!

Good luck!!

-Chuck

bgkast · #6 04-07-2008, 10:25 PM

It's not a huge deal if the rest of the body is sound. In the attached picture and link you can see the rust repair I am working on fixing. So far I have about $200 into the repair. It is much easier to just cut the repair panels out of a junk car than to try to make them yourself.

Want your Benz to last another 25 years? Remove the Asphalt from the floors.

Chad300tdt · #7 04-07-2008, 10:25 PM

Hey Aaron. If the hole is not too huge, you can clean all the rust up and patch it with a POR-15 floor pan kit like Chuck mentioned. I used one on my wagon in the rear driver side floor. If the hole is large, do all the steps in the POR-15 kit, but pop-rivet some sheet metal in and then use the floorpan kit over the top and bottom of the patch.

cewyattjr · #8 04-07-2008, 10:28 PM

The other thing to mention is to locate where water is getting in. There are supposed to be some very common areas where that happens, though I haven't personally gotten all my leaking stopped. Windshield seal, front and back. Hood-hinge drains, and sun roof seal just to name a few.

-Chuck

asnowsquall · #9 04-07-2008, 10:52 PM

Sorry, wood comes from trees and is made into a house, or paper but not a Mercedes car. Thats nuts. Sorry not an option in my book and I do some pretty hack things. Buy a MIG welder and about $200 in metal and spend about 300 hours trying to rebuild it. I swore I'd never do it again but now I purchased another and its "not so bad". OK, same thing happened to the person I purchased this car from. They paid $5000 for the car and were putting some cash into it. Then less than a year later it wouldn't pass inspection because of rust. Message to buyers, find someone in this forum who knows these cars and what to look for check it out with you.

charmalu · #10 04-07-2008, 11:50 PM

might want to check out www.shermanparts.com they use to have MB body panels. might have the floor pans.

they are located in washington, Mi.

Charlie ☺

turbobenz · #11 04-07-2008, 11:59 PM

thats like a dream project for me. I want to fix floor pan rust so so bad. I love welding!

bgkast · #12 04-08-2008, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbobenz

thats like a dream project for me. I want to fix floor pan rust so so bad. I love welding!

Come on over!

Knightrider966 · #13 04-08-2008, 01:04 AM

Now I'm really greatful to have a rust free Arizona Car!

I'm going to clear out the interior and make any repairs I can find, but so far no rust. Not no my 240D either!

Now if I can just find my 123 wagon.

aaronkobi · #14 04-08-2008, 01:15 AM

Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement guys. I'm going to remove the seats and carpets, scrape all the Asphalt out of the interior and remove the rubber from underneath the car. I'll post photos once I have everything taken out, then I can get a true assessment of the damage.

bgkast · #15 04-08-2008, 11:02 AM

A heat gun works wonders for removing the rubber undercoating too. I used a sharp box knife to trace around the area of undercoating to be removed, then used high heat and a putty knife to get an edge of it up. Once you have an edge you can grab onto keep applying heat and gently pull up the undercoating. I was able to get whole 1x1' squares off of my patch panels this way. Don't use a wire brush, it is slow and VERY MESSY!