From the extensive research on this process, filtering it down to 1 micron is a must. My initial set up was with fitler bags, the WMO was filtered in three stages: 10, 5, 1 micron. After mixing the RUG in and letting it sit for several days, there still a large amount of heavy stuff on the bottom of the tank. So I broke down and got me a centrifuge to filter it down even smaller (.5) micron. The photos are the junk from filter oil that already sat for weeks, then heated up settle it again until it was passed through the centrifuge at the min 10 pass through.


As you can see even after being filtered down to a 1 micron filter bag and letting it settle for days it still contain a large amount of junk I don't want going through the fuel system

MPG update on Miss Doris:

last driven miles 126 on 5 gal, 80% of that was WMO and 20% was RUG. The car runs quite and pretty darn good accel. At .72cent per gal, I take that any day.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Congrats and thanks for the update!

Miss doris is now running 100% on WMO, drove to Carlisle for the Fall Carlisle. That's 370 miles plus running around on WMO mix of 80% WMO, 20% RUG. those of you familiar with I-83 it has it's share of 6-9% grade uphill, climbed them without any problem passing slower cars and trucks.

Since I barely ran this car with regular diesel, does anyone have a video of their car running. I would like to compare sound level with Miss Doris running on WMO.

wmo are you using heaters?I do when running.With high fuel prices again I will be forced to burn it.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran,you are a citizen of the world, all peoples are
cousin's, love all life, your love is enternal

No, I am not using any heater. The mixture I am using cuts the WMO very close to D2 viscosity.

I changed the oil in my 300SD on Friday. I cut it with about 15% RUG and let it settle for a day and a half, filtered it through a 1 micron sock filter and poured it into the fuel tank. I was almost on the R according to the fuel gauge. I honestly did not notice any difference; except for a stronger smell from the exhaust. Smoke was no different than on D2. Power and acceleration was equal to or slightly better than straight D2. I did a transmission service today and once that settles, it will be fuel. I cut the ATF with about 5% RUG to aid in the settling process. Surprisingly, the ATF was very clean and probably did not need to be serviced.

I don't understand how some people oppose running WMO in an engine that has been running on it (partially) since the day it was driven off the lot. The crank case vents into the intake, so don't tell me the engine has never had WMO in the combustion chamber. Sure, it goes through the PCV filter and some settles out but anyone who has taken the U-pipe off an OM617 knows that some oil vapor gets ingested. Yes, there is the issue of the IP and injectors but that is where filtering comes into play. Anything under 10 microns should be acceptable. If it were not, Mercedes would not have used a 10 micron fuel filter. If D2 was so clean from the pump, then you would never have to change the filter and by that logic, Mercedes would not have incorporated a fuel filter on these cars.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

some people are opposed to the extra pollution wmo does,but I tell them this,tow boats,tugs,and ships run wmo,or a fuel thicker.No one put a catalytic on them

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran,you are a citizen of the world, all peoples are
cousin's, love all life, your love is enternal

Exactly, if it is going to be burnt as fuel anyway, it might as well be in my car saving me the cost of D2. It seems to be a moot point when you put it like that.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

What does your tailpipe smell like when running wmo? I ran a couple of gallons mixed in with 8-10 gallons of wvo. I smelled horrible. I have shyed away from it since.

__________________
I could not own any MB without the help from you...fellow forum members.


83 300td 207,XXX

It does have a smell but I am not gagging from it or anything. It smells like a really pungent Diesel or if the car had worn rings. I have not mixed it with WVO, so I can't attest to that kind of smell. I imagine it would be interesting, though.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Honestly, it smells like free money! LOL

In my opinion, the best modifications you could do to the car to run on a consistent supply of WMO is to #1 advance the timing a few degrees. #2 increase the pop pressure of the injectors 100-200PSI. From an atomic perspective, the carbon chains in thicker oils are longer and it takes more heat and pressure to break them down: AKA useable energy. Increased pop pressure allows finer atomization (surface area) and compensated for advanced timing. Advanced timing provides a little more burn time. The method I am referring to is exemplified in the PowerStroke Diesel tuners made for WMO use. The PSD uses a computer-controlled direct injection system with high pressure engine oil used as the primary means of pressurizing the injector's fuel supply. The pressure is much higher than that of a regular IDI Diesel system. The pressure stays constant but they do tune the chips to advance timing and quantity of fuel delivered. Most PSD WMO guys run a 50HP tune with advanced timing. The increase in fuel delivery compensates for increase in energy output and heat from burning WMO. Increasing fuel delivery on IDI diesels will not have the same results as we have a static timing curve; not a dynamic one. Increasing fuel delivery on an IDI will produce more smoke (higher opacity) because our engines do not compensate for fuel delivery like modern computer-controlled Diesels do. We have to work within the timing range set by our injection pumps. Advancing the timing and increasing atomization on an IDI will result in a cleaner burn of the fuel, unless the timing is too advanced and pre-ignition occurs. The fuel should not be injected until the piston is in the correct timing position or else the fuel will start burning at a lower temperature when it enters the cylinder/pre-chamber and the result of that is increased smoke opacity.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge