Soon after I got my car I found a discussion of which oil filter was best and someone literally ripped several brands apart and declared the Fram CH2930 the best. So I bought a stack of 'em, back when they were still sold in auto parts stores.

That was years ago, and I just used the last one.
Is there a board consensus on which is best nowadays? I see that this website offers products from the following brands for my car:
Hengst
Mahle
Mann
OParts
Bosch Workshop
Purflux

__________________
1982 240D automatic
Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now

ALSO, just for the record... for new or rebuilt engines the FSM recommends a different filter ... it has a different length ' cover' on it for the first certain number of miles....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Uh oh, here we go

Baldwin P102 for me and nothing else...

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

The Hastings LF380 is the same filter which for some reason generally cost less and is easier to find.
Hastings and Baldwin are parts of the same company.

The last ones I bought were made in the USA.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is from an old post of mine. "I have some Mann Filters that have the Mercedes Star and part number embosed on the top and some not Mercedes marked ones. People use them with no issues despite what is inside of them.
Oddly the Mann Oil Filter that are Mercedes Marked came in CAM-2 Boxes?"

However, I do not know if Mann is still the provider for the 617.952 Engine Oil Filters.

Also from an older post of mine.

"I only have the Hasting Filter. But, from the pictures I have seen they appear to be the same Filter except for the lettering on them.
When I emailed Hastings about the Mircon level of filteration at the bottom it had Baldwin Hastings on their Email
The pic of the Baldwin is from another Forum Member the Hastings pic is of one of mine."

So the name Baldsin and Hastings appeard on the same Email; that I why I beleive they are the parts of the same company.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Oh man, now you gone and done it........

After taking a can opener to my Mann and Hengst filters, Baldwin and Hastings are all I'll use. If you shop around they're not that expensive.

I use STP filters,they are really mahnn.

Buy Knecht (!)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Wix, local seller had a deal a few years back and grabbed eight. Down to two but who knows if I will get to put them to use due to rust issues.

Keep spraying or start spraying
FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

Talked about in the archives....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I've used a Mann PF1055/1X for the past couple of seasons with no issues. Mutt has used zero oil and that filter probably has no more than 25 miles +/- so I'm in a quandary as to when to change it. Any input? My initial thought was to change it every season but then I wondered, "Why"? I ran the same oil for the past 2 years as well.

Dan

The WIX Filter 51385 for the 617.952 has a nominal micrion filtration of 32 Microns.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/filterlookup.aspx

The Baldwin/Hastings filter in in the full flow section has a nominal micron filtration of 18 microns with the upper half being 15 microns.

The various european made Filters ranged from 22-27 nominal microns in the full flow scetion of the filter and have no idea what the upper section of the filter filters to.

Deliveryvalve DELIVERYVALVES LIST OF FILTER MICRONS
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=247597&highlight=Bosch+Oil+filters&page=3

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My decision was made for the WIX W/O looking into there performance as the vehicle had 260K with inoperative odometer and now has 375k for sure. They served me well for the price.

Length of time just sitting un-used or rarely used is not much of an issue as far as lubrication goes except if there is condensation inside of the crankcase. The controversy is over if the additives get depleted during the ensuing time.

The only way to know for sure is a oil analysis which unfotunately costs about the same as an Oil and Filter change.

When I was in tade school in 1975 I was told the addatives deplete even if the Engine is unused in 6 months. That was concerning 1975 Oil and no details were given as to which addatives or if all of them depleted or only part of them depleted.

My personal though as long as your Oil is not contaminated that even if you did not drive for one year the there will be no issues.

Unscientific but when I pull out the dip stick I look at the oil to see the color and how it flows and then I wipe on white bathroom tissue and look and smell it.
If I don't like what I see or smell I change the Oil.
However, I am a low milage driver so I don't change oil by milage and in theory City driving creates more crud then free way driving does.

Also in my Case my Car (since it was overheated) does use Oil (some seepage also) about 1 quart each 3-4 weeks growning around Town. So I when I add Oil I am also replacing addatives.

I also have an add on bypass Oil Filter that keeps me from having to worry about what stock type Oil Filter I use. In fact I have a bunch of euro Oil Filter I need to use up.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm thinking I'll do an oil and filter change this winter after I install the new turbo. Just seems like a good time to do it. But the oil looks and smells fine - I've done the same "tissue test". Mutt sits in the off-and-on heated shop all winter so I don't think there's much condensate in the oil from sitting. But this would be the third year on the same oil (Rotella T) so I think it's time.

Dan