Engine is in! Had a power steering line made and I'm going to have to have new oil cooler lines made. Going to mess with exhaust and fuel lines for the rest of the day. Any idea what size nuts hold the down pipe on the turbo?

Oh and the hood actually fits!

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Cool! Looks like a tight fit at the steering box!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It's very tight! I had to remove the oil cooler lines to get the engine in. I could have pushed it a little farther towards the passenger side but this looked like it'll work

Excellent!

The doomsday diesel guys have cheap oil filter relocation plates, so you cna keep your oil cooler.

I see we have the same shop setup

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Be sure to check clutch action before going any farther.

Apply parking brake / chock rear wheels , put trans in gear , depress and hold clutch , crank engine over through a few revolutions ( turning it with a socket is fine. ) If the wheels try to turn, there are clutch release issues.

Next, lift the rear wheels / release parking brake, depress and hold clutch , try to turn drive shaft. If it does not turn, there are clutch release issues.

If you are using the M5OD ( Mazda ) integral bell housing / internal clutch slave cylinder trans, there should be a rubber plug that can be removed to check release bearing action

Looking good. I do wish I'd taken the time to tuck my engine back and keep everything under the hood and behind the grill, vs. the radiator bulge I have now.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I most likely will go back to the shop that made me the hydraulic line and see if they can make me flexible oil cooler lines too so that I don't have to remove them every time I unbolt the motor mounts.

I removed almost the entire radiator support and welded in some new bracing and brackets so the radiator would fit. I had to push it ~4" forward. The oil cooler will fit behind the grill to but the lines will have to loop around the grill.

I wish I could test the clutch but I don't have the final flywheel adapter so I can't put it in. When I had everything aparI, I put the flywheel, pressure plate, and slave cylinder in the bell housing with the adapter bolted on and it looked good. When the flywheel was at the point where it'll be when attached to the engine the slave cylinder was almost fully depressed and so it should be able to release without any problems. I also can shift the flywheel relatively easily by modifying the flywheel adapter and not change the position of the engine. I probably won't be able to get my buddy who's made the adapter parts to make the flywheel adapter until i make him a turbo header for his MG Midge. Yes you read that right, a turbocharged Midget.

When I did the jeep, I had a hydraulic make me some extended oil cooler lines. 90° on one side and 45° bends in the other. Offered more flexibility with routing.

Rangers looking good.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

How did you attach to the oil cooler and filter housing?

How do I hook the heater in to my radiator? The line on the back of the engine I assume feeds the heater and the return should T into the lower radiator line?

I left the filter housing attached to the motor in the stock location. As for the cooler I put it in front of the radiator.



There is a pipe fitting in between the 4th and 5th cylinder on the driver side, feed that direct into the heater core. The return on the heater core should connect into the thermostat housing. No need to T into anything from what I understand.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

I'm pretty sure if you look at the early pages in my build thread I showed how I bypassed the heater using the connections as noted southofantartica's entry - there are pics there. I'd repost them but the forum won't let me. Bottom line is that I looped them as I wanted to keep the water circulating as designed.

Dan

If a heater isn't being used, it is better to block them off for nearly all engines. Looping them is the same as bypassing the radiator and will reduce cooling capacity. A heater valve in a stock system blocks flow in hot weather further supporting my point.

The only cases where a modified loop is needed would be for an EGR cooler, heated intake or heated throttle body.

And as a side note, for race only engines that might be run in cooler temperatures, I use a thermostat with two 3/16" holes drilled in the body. This makes coolant refills very easy ( don't have to wait for the thermostat to open ) and eliminates that cold slug of water / thermal shock from the rad first time the t stat opens from cold.

I miss wrote my question, what I meant was what did you do for the oil cooler fittings. Did you put h.ydraulic fittings on the oil cooler and on the oil filter housing so you could use new lines or did you find fittings that fit where the stock ones did?

Heater is fed by the lline in the first pick and return is to the fitting in second pic? The thing in the third pic is the thermostat housing? Any idea what size bolts holding it on? I don't have them.

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The hose in the first pic is the vacuum line? Can I connect it to the brake booster? To shur the engine off do i need to apply vacuum to the little line on the back of the injection pump in second pic?

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Here is one solution - 110k miles and all is good.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica