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#541
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Got the new tank in, went pretty smoothly.
I drained the tank by running the return line into a gas can and idling the engine, and stopped when I saw the first fuel filter filling with air. It was 1/8th tank BELOW the empty line on the gauge when this happened. I refill at around 1/3rd tank and have never gone below 1/4 and will not change that, but knowing I have that kind of reserve(on flat level ground) is nice. Six bolts on the skid plate, six more on the tank, disconnect all the plumbing, and it came down and was replaced easily. Still about a gallon of fuel in the bottom of the old tank. Dumped the fuel back in, changed all the filters, primed the system, she started up like normal. No leaks. Truck seems to run better. Definitely smoother and seemingly more power. New filters had a good effect. First two pics are self explanatory, the third is the best I could get of the old tank by sticking my phone inside the fuel pickup hole, and the last is the fuel filler port in the old tank. Just covered in flakey rust. If anyone should need a tank for their Yota and is willing to do some work to make it useable, PM me. Edit: Oh, and the magnet on fuel filter thing didn't catch anything.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap Last edited by OM617YOTA; 10-04-2014 at 01:03 PM. |
#542
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Yuck!!!!
One of these things is not like the other. Dan |
#543
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nice trick
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General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo |
#544
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Had my first outright parts failure - the turn buckle I was using as a tensioner for the alternator broke. Replaced with a slightly more stout version. Noticed it when the belt squealed on startup for the first time ever. Shut her down, checked belt tension, it was loose! Went to adjust tension and saw the broken turn buckle. Threw a hose clamp on it to hold it together long enough to get home, then ran out and bought a new turn buckle.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#545
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I am using a very modified stock bracket myself and had it crack. I tack welded it back together for the moment, but I like the turn buckle idea. Maybe keep a trail spare...
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ |
#546
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Do yourself a favor and get a stainless marine grade turnbuckle. They're designed for extreme use and won't fail like your consumer ones.
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Current Stable
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#547
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Thank you, gents. The old turn buckle lasted 8k miles on this project, and a couple hundred hours doing the same job on another project. While that kind of "reliability" is hardly acceptable for this application, considering it's an undersized part doing a job that was never even considered when it was designed, I'll give it a pass. I'll order the marine grade stainless steel turn buckle, get it installed, and then make this existing one my trail spare. Thank you again.
I'm going to have to mount that Facor filter under the bed, just no room under the hood. The only room.............is right over the exchaust. Thinking a metal toolbox mounted on it's side as a cabinet, with the filter mounted inside. That'll provide me with a strong, durable, ready-built enclosure with an easy opening for filter maintenance, and the ability to lock it.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#548
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And it will look classy!...
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ |
#549
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It will catch spilled fuel in a filter change, hold spare filters, your lunch, etc.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#550
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Got a few more things done on the truck today.
1. Mounted side marker lights on the front of the bed under the reflectors that have been there all along. 2. Mounted some auxiliary backup lights(guess that's what I'd call them?) on the sides of the bed, under the new side markers. These make it easier to see exactly where my back wheels are going at night. Wired to come on with the existing backup light. 3. Remounted the existing backup light. While I was adding the wiring for the new lights into the wiring in back, I bumped the existing backup light. It moved more than I thought it should. Closer examination showed that the mounting bracket had work hardened and cracked in a couple places, and as far as I could tell that light was being held on by sheer blind luck? A slight bend from me and it fell off entirely - could have happened with just a decent bump in the road. I remounted it to the bed, as eventually I'll be putting a trailer hitch on this thing and removing what now serves as the rear "bumper." Pics to follow. Got a new phone and need to figure out how to transfer stuff to the computer. I'm sure it's gotten easier, I just haven't figure it out yet. Wish I had just taken the pics with my old phone.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#551
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Noticed today that I'd hit a milestone sometime the last time I drove my truck: 10,000 miles on this swap.
Bought this truck with 232k miles on the odometer, and it did not move a single inch under gas power.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#552
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Congratulations! I just crossed 10k a few weeks ago! Sounds like Greazzers spring did the trick!
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ Last edited by Cadin; 12-10-2014 at 05:01 PM. |
#553
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Congrats! Yes, fingers crossed, that was it!
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap Last edited by OM617YOTA; 12-10-2014 at 11:15 PM. |
#554
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Just a bit of an update.
My rough running problems have tentatively been solved with the discovery of a broken spring in my fuel overflow valve, on the back of the IP. Thread here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/361613-617-weird-behavior-diagnoses.html I pulled the rear angle iron "bumper" off and bolted on a trailer hitch. The hitch was originally meant to hang below a stock bumper, which put it WAY lower than I wanted. Out came the reciprocating saw and the welder. I was busy, didn't get before or during photos, but got a couple as it sits now. Beveled the edges of the cuts and made several welding passes on each side for full penetration. Some cleanup needed on the back of hitch, mostly removing excess material. The welds won't win any beauty contests, but they ain't coming off either. I'll clean up the whole thing and paint it this weekend. Also moved the backup light and it's fatigue-cracked mount up to the bed, and fabbed my own mount. Like most of my work, it's solid, functional, and lacking beauty. I added side marker lights to the front of the flat bed, and LED license plate lights below the side marker, tied in with the backup lights. These illuminate the area beside the truck and make backing up in tight quarters at night much nicer. The timing device has a good bit of longitudinal play in it despite a new intermediate shaft bushing that restored play to spec ~10k miles ago. Something in that area is knocking pretty good too. No choice, going to have to tear into it again, and sooner rather than later. Think that's about it. Pic 1 new hitch Pic 2 new side marker light and side backup light 3 and 4 my ugly welding
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#555
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Pic 1 and 2 are the areas illuminated by my side backup light, both off and on. Edit: Shoot, doesn't show much difference in the picture. Sure is in real life.
Pic 2, I hacked off the end of the now-rusty flexible exhaust pipe and attached a chrome tip that I found while cleaning the garage. Lipstick on a pig, but it does look better and it even sounds better. You can see a bit of the exhaust plume, the truck was idling when this was taken.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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