My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

[Cadin]

Awesome, apart from the modified pan dripping a wee bit. It's a pain to clear the crossmember during removal so I keep putting it off! I'm going to try hauling some canoes and kayaks to a bit of a backwoods lake this weekend, so we'll see how she does.

My rig has had a knocking forever, and it seems to want to stay; though I have clarified some air leaks and reset the timing. (An 7/16 oak dowel worked great and was easy to tool.)

Resetting the spring in the IP valve helped my idle a lot, it was at 20mm from 27mm...

Good luck, Brother, keep us posted!

[OM617YOTA]

The beast lives again.

Greazzer was kind enough to re-clean my injectors. Not only did he clean and rebuild my injectors, he did it TWICE, and the second time he re-balanced them even tighter than his usual very tight balance that already is half the tolerance of factory spec. This kind of customer service is amazing, and any business we can give him is not enough.

On Greazzer's suggestion and diagnoses, based on the crud he found in my injectors, I ran a clean paper towel around the intake for the lift pump - clean fuel. Ran a clean paper towel around the output - dirty! Rebuilt the lift pump(including the 5mm O-ring), then ran two cans of Liqui Moly diesel purge through the system via the plastic-bottle-as-fuel-tank method. The return line to the bottle stayed clear, not bad at all. I think I cleaned most of the goop out manually.

I took advantage of the idle time while the truck was sitting without injectors and dumped a couple tablespoons of ATF into the cylinders, and rotated the engine around by hand a few times to distribute it. If any rings were sticking because of carbon, I was hoping to free them up.

End result of all of this, the engine runs amazingly better. For the first time EVER, the gray smoke at idle is gone. I used to have a very harsh raw diesel stink to the exhaust - also gone. Incredibly smooth, better low end power, did I mention SMOOTH? It didn't miss after startup despite having not run for weeks and being started with rebuilt injectors and freshly bled fuel lines. No part throttle miss, no rattling on the test drive from air leaks.

My idle did bump up a wee bit during the diesel purge. Verified that the throttle lever and linkages and such were letting the throttle move back to idle stop, and it is. Maybe this is where it's supposed to be at and it's been idling low all this time, due to crud stuck somewhere? I need a tach.

Thank you again for all your help, and for putting up with my newbie questions and frustration.

[Cadin]

SMOOOOOOOOOTH!!!

[Stretch]

So the Victorian moral of the day is cleanliness is next to godliness

[Dan Stokes]

VERY COOL!

Mark is a super guy and does nice work. It's excellent that all it took was some house cleaning. I wonder if I should give mine a similar purge.

Dan

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

The beast lives again.

Greazzer was kind enough to re-clean my injectors. Not only did he clean and rebuild my injectors, he did it TWICE, and the second time he re-balanced them even tighter than his usual very tight balance that already is half the tolerance of factory spec. This kind of customer service is amazing, and any business we can give him is not enough.

On Greazzer's suggestion and diagnoses, based on the crud he found in my injectors, I ran a clean paper towel around the intake for the lift pump - clean fuel. Ran a clean paper towel around the output - dirty! Rebuilt the lift pump(including the 5mm O-ring), then ran two cans of Liqui Moly diesel purge through the system via the plastic-bottle-as-fuel-tank method. The return line to the bottle stayed clear, not bad at all. I think I cleaned most of the goop out manually.

I took advantage of the idle time while the truck was sitting without injectors and dumped a couple tablespoons of ATF into the cylinders, and rotated the engine around by hand a few times to distribute it. If any rings were sticking because of carbon, I was hoping to free them up.

End result of all of this, the engine runs amazingly better. For the first time EVER, the gray smoke at idle is gone. I used to have a very harsh raw diesel stink to the exhaust - also gone. Incredibly smooth, better low end power, did I mention SMOOTH? It didn't miss after startup despite having not run for weeks and being started with rebuilt injectors and freshly bled fuel lines. No part throttle miss, no rattling on the test drive from air leaks.

My idle did bump up a wee bit during the diesel purge. Verified that the throttle lever and linkages and such were letting the throttle move back to idle stop, and it is. Maybe this is where it's supposed to be at and it's been idling low all this time, due to crud stuck somewhere? I need a tach.

Thank you again for all your help, and for putting up with my newbie questions and frustration.

"On Greazzer's suggestion and diagnoses, based on the crud he found in my injectors, I ran a clean paper towel around the intake for the lift pump - clean fuel. Ran a clean paper towel around the output - dirty!"

How did you run a clean paper around the intake and output of the lift pump?

The lift pump is before the secondary fuel filter but after the primary so anything that gets past the primary will be filtered by the secondary.

So you did 3 things and the engine is now running smooth.

1. had the injectors re-balanced
2. rebuilt the lift pump
3. put atf into the cylinders

Which one of these do you think cured the problems you were having? I think the problems you had was nailing, rough idle and smoke?

[OM617YOTA]

Originally Posted by funola

"On Greazzer's suggestion and diagnoses, based on the crud he found in my injectors, I ran a clean paper towel around the intake for the lift pump - clean fuel. Ran a clean paper towel around the output - dirty!"

How did you run a clean paper around the intake and output of the lift pump?

The lift pump is before the secondary fuel filter but after the primary so anything that gets past the primary will be filtered by the secondary.

So you did 3 things and the engine is now running smooth.

1. had the injectors re-balanced
2. rebuilt the lift pump
3. put atf into the cylinders

Which one of these do you think cured the problems you were having? I think the problems you had was nailing, rough idle and smoke?

In order:

I just pulled the barbed fittings off the lift pump. Easy.

1. I don't think rebalancing the injectors made much difference at all. Greazzer's work was top notch the first time around and he was very graceful to be willing to touch them again at all.
2. Rebuilding the lift pump eliminated an air leak and a lube oil leak into the fuel system. This would have taken care of the nailing, rough idle, and smoke.
3. ATF probably did nothing. I should run a compression test again, but likely nothing.

I realize I didn't follow the usual diagnostic approach, do ONE thing at a time to be able to nail down exactly what the culprit was. I simply did not have time.

I did get a nasty tank of fuel - multiple fuel filters were replaced before it went through. Does anyone have experience retrofitting larger semi-truck or similar commercial duty filters onto these engines?

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

I

Does anyone have experience retrofitting larger semi-truck or similar commercial duty filters onto these engines?

I remember seeing a thread where a guy used a long Baldwin filter that fit in the existing filter housing. He moved it toward the rear of the engine with brackets so the filter fit in the area.

[Simpler=Better]

Marteuro has prints for this zip him a PM

[OM617YOTA]

Hey Cadin, how'd the canoe and kayak hauling go?

Mine is purring right along, cranks up nice, no more stumbling while cold, no more smoking when warm, goes down the road just fine, much more happy to rev than it was before.

I've been exploring fuel filtering options via the other excellent threads here, started by Diesel911 and Cho. My current thoughts are to go w/ the 1" x 14tpi mounting, as that seems to be very widely available and support a wide variety of micron ratings with and without a water drain, and will let me use the 2 micron CAT filter. As I do now, I'll keep spares in the tool box and if I have trouble with contaminated fuel it's more likely a small country shop that services semi trucks or farm equipment will have that filter than a MBZ diesel filter. Looking to yank the in-tank EFI pump and surge tank and convert to a pure suction system like the stock MBZ ran, and replace the primary filter with a seriously large and clear sediment bowl. Similar to this:

Goldenrod Water-Block Fuel Filter — 3/4in. Fittings, Model# 496-3/4 | Oil Filters Fuel Filters| Northern Tool + Equipment

I can mount it out of the way under the flatbed, in a box to protect it while still allowing access for monitoring, draining, and changing. I'm a wee bit paranoid after that tank of contaminated fuel I got.

All anyone has to do is peruse this thread to see that I might change my mind a dozen times before it actually gets mounted on the truck.

[OM617YOTA]

Whoever designed the bracket behind the IP to be stuck behind the oil cooler hoses and so close to the oil filter should have something truly uncomfortable happen to them.

That is all.

[Stretch]

Oh tut tut - on the shorter M pumps you don't have so much trouble - next time remove the oil filter housing!

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Oh tut tut - on the shorter M pumps you don't have so much trouble - next time remove the oil filter housing!

It is probably easier to just remove the rear bracket completely, than to remove/replace the filter stand.

[Cadin]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Hey Cadin, how'd the canoe and kayak hauling go?

We ended up taking 3 Kayaks and a canoe, so the FJ was on bus duty while my old man drove his '69 GMC 2wd pickup with the boats!

[OM617YOTA]

Cadin-

Good to hear it went well!

As you mentioned, my Tygon fuel return line started leaking. I stuck the stock braided MBZ line back on there before it had a chance to blow.