My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

I installed the rebuilt injectors and all seemed well, other than some odd noise. Reset timing and got the miss and then increasingly more noise. Replacing the hand primer pump with a genuine Bosch primer helped the miss considerably, as did replacing the fuel lines. The top end noise has gotten progressively worse, and the miss is still there.

It's too bad you replaced your fuel lines with black hoses. You need a clear line to look for bubbles. The best place is illustrated by pic below.

I installed 3 water clear nylon lines (made them myself) which were pressure tested before installation. Primed it and ran it at idle till all air was purged and no more bubbles. Overnight next morning I noticed the short section of clear line on the tee was 1/2 empty (should be full all the time). All the other (3) clear lines were full. I have an air leak (probably from some of the aluminum washers) and drain back to tank. Not much air got in since it started and ran perfect and the 1 second it took to get out to look there was no bubbles in that short clear section. If I left it sit with that leak for a week, a lot more air would have got in and I may get a rough start or a no start. This shows that a clear line at the filter tee (highest point in the fuel system) is the best place to look for bubbles. It will detect air before any of the other 3 clear lines will.

[Cadin]

Fuel for the fire: It is difficult to hear precisely where the noise is coming from, could it be from predetonation?

[OM617YOTA]

Thank you folks, that is good news all the way around.

Greazzer, please check your PM's.

[greazzer]

I believe I owe an apology or two if I came off as curt.

New nozzles, correctly rebuilt injectors will sound "different" The loud chatter will go away roughly by 200-500 miles on any rebuild. That is normal. However, there are no misses either at start up or when cold. They are the same hot or cold. Now, if you experience a metal like or metalic like clang, that is air. It will work itself out within 50 or so miles. If it does not, then you have an air leak somewhere.

As for the IP timing, I have an AVL 875 BUND device. It says 20*, but that is really 26* since you add 6* when I time my engine. I know adjusting the valves will cause the injectors to simmer down a hair. Not sure why, but it does. I am happy with 26*.

I will be experimenting with speciality ground pintles which push a huge amount of fuel, so I can report back the effects of more fuel, e.g., timing, engine idle, et cet.

However, generally, well balanced injectors (those within +/- 25PSI) should produce a really fine idle once they settle in. I know that from experience since FSM is 50+/- PSI and most "pro" shops hit around +/-75PSI and there is a huge difference in smoothness with the balance issue.

[OM617YOTA]

I didn't think you did anything requiring an apology, and in case I did anything that bothered anyone, I apologize too.

Thank you for the additional info on rebuilt injectors.

[OM617YOTA]

Argh.

[Simpler=Better]

Those bubbles don't look bad to me.

Also, nice clear lines

[OM617YOTA]

Made a cool discovery.

The crush washers on most of the fuel banjo bolts are the same size as the oil drain plug crush washers. Or at least close enough to work.

Pics are of the crush washers compared, and installed. Used the drain plug seals out of every oil filter I had, and will have to replenish before I change my oil again.

As an aside, I have a Mann oil filter for the 617 up for grabs, now sans crush washers. Free to anyone who wants to swing by and grab it or pay for freight.

[funola]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Argh.

Argh what? Keep an eye on those neon yellow return lines. I had some on a VW that someone gave me to try and after about 6 months, one of them came off spilling a lot of fuel. They are very soft in durometer and can't handle much pressure. My guess no more than 3 to 5 psi. With a hot engine, if you can grab the line with 2 fingers and pull it off the nipple, it is too soft.

[Cadin]

My Viton lines are a bit too soft and I had one pop off whilst driving down the road, the smell made it pretty obvious! I put some spring clamps on, and no worries!

[OM617YOTA]

I carry the stock fabric covered line with me, the Tygon line is just the last section from the #1 injector to the fuel return banjo bolt, for diagnosing my air leak.

[OM617YOTA]

Just a picture I thought was neat - glow plug glowing, as viewed through the open injector hole.

[OM617YOTA]

Just for reference, the Bosch PN for the crush washer for the primer pump and a couple of the other fittings on the lift pump is 1230 203 001.

[Cadin]

Thankee! How's your rig doing? Getting into the hills?

[OM617YOTA]

Unfortunately it's been parked while I nail down the issues I've been having. All goes right, it'll be back on the road by this weekend. Fingers crossed.

How is yours doing?