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  #376  
Old 04-19-2014, 10:01 PM
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Bummer! I have a new trail spare sittin' on the bench over here you are welcome to, but it's a pretty long throw! As far as your truck bling, I'll suggest some of those texas longhorn-cattle horns on the front of your rig!

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  #377  
Old 04-19-2014, 10:36 PM
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I think your tube is too long after the bend. I think it needs to be cut off barely after the tube gets horizontal (with it attached).
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  #378  
Old 04-20-2014, 04:26 AM
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Oh well at least you know about the chain

There are other ways I can think of to pressurise the fuel system but I think Monday is probably your best bet - assuming shops are open on Easter Monday where you are - everything is shut here. (Well other than furniture shops and carpet places etc)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #379  
Old 04-20-2014, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
Just checked cam timing using the marks on the cam and the crank, didn't have time to bust out the dial indicator. Got the cam lined up dead on...........and the crank was at 5 deg ATDC.

Deep breath. Think I need to step away from this one for a bit. If anything, this much crap being wrong with the engine and the fact that it still runs at all is AMAZING. Think I fell for the rumors of these Mercedes engines being nearly maintenance free, just keep ticking forever. And to some extent that's true, they will take an amazing amount of abuse and neglect and keep going. But learning just how much it takes to undo all that abuse and neglect and put things back into good shape is disheartening. I guess I should be happy that an offset key is only $20.

Off to put together a Pelican Parts order.
EDIT: A hood stack would be quite lovely
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Last edited by Simpler=Better; 04-20-2014 at 03:24 PM.
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  #380  
Old 04-20-2014, 02:17 PM
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...so I must edit my post as well...

...booo hooo
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 04-20-2014 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Chicken ****!
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  #381  
Old 04-20-2014, 04:25 PM
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Cadin, once again, your generosity is amazing. Thank you. I'll be ordering a primer pump shortly.

Stretch, for the three minutes it took to yank the cam bolt, doing so and verifying the key was great. No worries there at all, and thank you!

I did wind up using my electric in-tank pump to pressurize the fuel system. Nothing coming out the drip tube at all in the entire adjustment range of the IP. I figured what the heck, got nothing to lose now, and started cranking over the engine by hand to see exactly where fuel starts coming out. Got a full stream of fuel at around 20 deg ATDC. I didn't even bother cranking it over again to see exactly where 1 drip/sec was at, just went "awe crap" and took a break. Going to have to pull and re-index the IP to get anywhere near correct timing.

I'm...............amazed. I put 5k miles on this conversion with the engine in this shape and was fairly happy with it. I'm really looking forward to how it runs with everything in spec.

I'd do a hood stack if I thought I could get away with it. Out here in the country it would be fine, as soon as I took it into town to go to work the police would be all over me, even though it wouldn't be much louder than my straight pipes as it is. It would just be "different."
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  #382  
Old 04-20-2014, 05:44 PM
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Well, looks like I misunderstood how that whole system works, I thought it would ONLY drip/stream during the injection pulse, not across the entire range and then stop briefly during the injection pulse. I checked again more carefully, I get one drip/sec at 28 deg BTDC.

Still not able to adjust it down to 24 deg though, at 24 deg on the balancer pointer I have no drips at all anywhere in the adjustment range of the pump.

Only one tooth off.

I really need to slow down on these updates. Gather my thoughts, do proper due diligence, THEN post my findings. Don't look like an ignorant fool over-reacting so much that way.
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  #383  
Old 04-21-2014, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
Well, looks like I misunderstood how that whole system works, I thought it would ONLY drip/stream during the injection pulse, not across the entire range and then stop briefly during the injection pulse. I checked again more carefully, I get one drip/sec at 28 deg BTDC.

Still not able to adjust it down to 24 deg though, at 24 deg on the balancer pointer I have no drips at all anywhere in the adjustment range of the pump.

Only one tooth off.

I really need to slow down on these updates. Gather my thoughts, do proper due diligence, THEN post my findings. Don't look like an ignorant fool over-reacting so much that way.
at least a decorate hood stack? Preety please :p

28*BTDC is fine so long as she doesn't knock. 26* -28*is the "performance range"
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  #384  
Old 04-21-2014, 09:35 PM
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The diesel knock was pretty loud. If 28 degrees is the top of the "performance range" I hope I don't loose much performance by going back to stock - there wasn't much there to lose!

I'm contemplating a standard exhaust stack.
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  #385  
Old 04-21-2014, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
at least a decorate hood stack? Preety please :p

28*BTDC is fine so long as she doesn't knock. 26* -28*is the "performance range"
Yup x 2. Mine's at 26 and fires right up ...
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  #386  
Old 04-22-2014, 09:58 PM
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Well, got most of my parts in today, was going to button her up and crank her up. Instead I will be finding, ordering, and installing copper delivery valve seals on my front two cylinders. Yanked the first one to do timing, yanked the second one to verify how all the pieces went back inside the first one.

Eventually I will learn how to do things the easy way. Anyone have a good source for delivery valve crush washers?
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  #387  
Old 04-22-2014, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
Well, got most of my parts in today, was going to button her up and crank her up. Instead I will be finding, ordering, and installing copper delivery valve seals on my front two cylinders. Yanked the first one to do timing, yanked the second one to verify how all the pieces went back inside the first one.

Eventually I will learn how to do things the easy way. Anyone have a good source for delivery valve crush washers?
Delivery valve copper washers are NLA. Only option now is to re-use the old ones. Too late, but my RIV timing light could have saved you from doing drip timing.
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  #388  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:02 AM
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Thank you for the info.

I might be in trouble then. Off to make use of the search feature. Hopefully I'll figure out what I boogered up and how to fix it.
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  #389  
Old 04-23-2014, 03:14 AM
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There's a page here that has a link to OM617 delivery valve seals

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/248908-fast-search-special-order-parts.html

Unfortunately when you click on the link towards the bottom of the first post you arrive at a warning message saying that you "are trying to get into a forbidden part of the site and your account will be terminated" - and then "you'll be whipped by soggy sticks of celery" - it all true - honest!

{I think the plan is to contact whunter who organises all this stuff}

One stripped out EPC site reckons 0000741759 is a good number but then here on peach parts that only gets a hit for OM616 IPs =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/199755-om616-ip-delivery-valve-seal.html


@ the moderators please leave the celery in the fridge!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #390  
Old 04-23-2014, 10:46 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
There's a page here that has a link to OM617 delivery valve seals

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/248908-fast-search-special-order-parts.html

Unfortunately when you click on the link towards the bottom of the first post you arrive at a warning message saying that you "are trying to get into a forbidden part of the site and your account will be terminated" - and then "you'll be whipped by soggy sticks of celery" - it all true - honest!

{I think the plan is to contact whunter who organises all this stuff}

One stripped out EPC site reckons 0000741759 is a good number but then here on peach parts that only gets a hit for OM616 IPs =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/199755-om616-ip-delivery-valve-seal.html


@ the moderators please leave the celery in the fridge!
I have also tried to find delivery valve seals for my 617, and nothing of value comes up when I do a search. On a 60X pump, for some reason they call it an "injector seal". I have ordered them from PP before for a 602, and had a hard time finding them. I assume the DV seals and copper washers are NOT the same for a 60X and a 61X engine.

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