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#76
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Thanks Roll!
Boost gauge is plumbed into ALDA line, so I know boost is getting to the line(can see gauge move), but no clue if the ALDA is actually working. I'll do your test and report back. |
#77
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Got good news, the ALDA works. Thanks again, Roll. I really think my perceived power problem was just me being afraid to let her spin.
I also found my oil leak, and I'm a bit embarrassed at what it is. I apparently left out the bolt that holds the vacuum pump pivot pin in place. Whoops. |
#78
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Hey folks, just an update.
I'm at around 300 miles on the conversion, and just fueled up for the second time. Calculated MPG thus far: 24.5. Not bad in a truck that got 12MPG as a gasser. This also includes LOTS of idling for various reason, literally hours. How much fuel per hour does an OM617 use while idling? The alternator seems to be holding it's own, and whatever the starter issue was, it seems to have gone away. I still need to pop the hood to shut her down and use a transmission funnel to fuel her up. Plans for the weekend include fixing both of these issues. The in-cab shutdown is a higher priority, I have to do that 15x more often than I fuel her up. Thanks everyone. Tips, comments, or suggestions are most welcome. |
#79
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Quick shut down tip -
1) thread long pipe from the shut down vacuum valve on the IP into the cabin 2) get blond dolly bird with big lungs to sit next to you 3) when you need to stop the engine get her to suck on the pipe EDIT - blond dolly bird might push the budget to breaking point - you might just have to settle for someone with just big lungs
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#80
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NIce Build! I just put a OM617 in a FJ80. I used a 4runner vsv to turn it off, it's those cylinder things that are part of the vacuum system on the 22re/3vz.
Here it is on the firewall... I used the toyota connector and simply crimped a prong on one end for ground (doesn't matter which), and one to a kill switch with B+ on the other side of the switch. Like So... (I also included the tee'ing off of the vacuum to the brake booster ----> VSV -----> stop diaphragm on the back of the injector pump.) |
#81
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It's interesting, we both had the idea to include a power to the glowplug light and not just a switch power light!
I wired the VSV stop switch to the GP relay activate switch since I will never use them at the same time (though I suppose now I always do!) --BTW you can also get a Bosch 110 amp alt. from a early 90's Saab 9000, fits stock bracket with no modification, swap pulleys, wire +B and +B(switched) and you can blast the heater, radio, high beams, wipers, coffee machine and George Foreman Grill.-- How did you wire the overboost protection for the ALDA? (P.S. Thanks on the ALDA advice Roll, mine was totally gunked, as was the inside of most of the intake manifold, originating at the EGR...) Last edited by Cadin; 08-30-2013 at 04:42 AM. |
#82
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Most people just delete the valve and connect the line directly from the manifold to the ALDA.
__________________
![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#83
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Thanks for the help, folks. LOOOOOOOONG week, TGIF and Monday off! My replies in no particular order:
I'm familiar with the various options for actuating the vacuum shutoff. The problem is that my vacuum shutoff is completely inoperable. Direct connection to vacuum pump, syringe, sucking on the hose, nothing. I drove the car around the lot and shut it down before I bought the motor, it worked then. Black gunk throughout the whole vacuum system, was probably flexible when I bought the engine and has now hardened. Is there any point in pulling apart the vacuum shutoff and cleaning it out? I bypassed the overboost protection. I can get a 22SI alternator for less than I can get a Bosch/Saab alternator, it'll put out more amps continuously for MUCH longer than the Bosch alternator. I can build my own bracket for the 22SI out of stuff I have laying around pretty easily, with the only cost tied up in mig wire, gas, and power. This will give me a HUGE surplus of power. I already have a power inverter.......... Thanks everyone. I'm off to dinner and a movie with my little lady. In my diesel truck. ![]() |
#84
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How long did the motor sit after you pulled it?
Have you used a vacuum gauge to apply vacuum to the diaphragm? That would tell you if it was leaking at the IP stop diaphragm. You can usually sign one out of most part stores and return it after. If it keep pressure, but is not stopping fuel flow, I would say then dig into it. The 22si is certainly more of an alternator, they are ~150amp right? Initially I had considered using the case alt. (~130a?) The bosch was certainly more of a PickNPull find. (Speaking of which, there are a couple of 300D's up here (Portland) in the parts yards that had the vacuum shut-off on them.) Have a Good Evening, enjoy the long weekend! |
#85
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Thank you, Cadin. That's a seriously neat swap you've got!
I haven't checked the vacuum shutoff with a vacuum gauge, that's the next step. The Delco 22SI is 150A continuous duty. I measured voltage at idle with the stock 300SD alt and only the fuel lift pump running, 13.2V. Waited on the cooling fan to kick on, 13V. Started adding wipers and HVAC blower and headlights and voltage quickly sagged to 12.7V - battery voltage. Rev the motor and voltage rose to 13V. It just ain't keeping up. Last edited by OM617YOTA; 08-31-2013 at 02:43 PM. |
#86
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Well, I'm feeling quite foolish. My vacuum shutoff is just fine, I just had the vacuum line attached to the wrong port.....
Got a line running into the cab now, can shut her down by sucking on the line. Will get it plumbed into the vacuum system and hook up a key-operated valve soon. |
#87
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^^^still that's good news - you don't have to repair the shut off valve on the IP
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#88
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Good to hear all is well!
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#89
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Thank you both for the kind words. I have definitely been on forums that would not have responded to my admission politely. I'm very thankful this one is different.
__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#90
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If you feel a need to be chastised for your mistake, instead of the blonde mentioned earlier, get a dark haired woman with chains and whip and have her whip you as you suck on the shut off line.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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