The main/lower control arm (LCA) is different on the wagons... but the other links are the same on all 124's. I don't have a photo showing the two LCA's next to each other since I don't own any wagons (yet).
FYI... when installing the control arms, it is CRITICAL to not tighten the mounting bolts with the suspension fully extended, i.e. with the car jacked up. The bolts must only be tightened in the "ready to drive" position, with the axle shaft approximately level, and preferably at the level it would be with the full weight of the car on the wheels. The easiest way to do this is to measure your normal ride height from wheel center to fender lip, then remove the rear spring, jack the control arm up to the correct distance (wheel center to fender lip), remove the wheel, tighten all the bolts, then re-install the spring. If you don't do this, you will (a) drastically shorten the life span of your new bushings and (b) end up with abnormally tall ride height as the bushings will all be under tension and preventing the car from settling down normally.
The bushings are bonded and are designed to return the suspension to the normal/center position, as shown in
this video.
The subframe arms are shown below, the LCA is the standard (non-wagon) LCA. You can use the fancy alunimum torque arm on sedans/coupes, I put it on my 300D when I did the subframe rebuild. Naturally, it costs twice as much as the steel version:
