I don't understand that. The new rotor looks complete to me.

Regarding the crack in the rear shield, it would be best to replace the shield but I think you could run the car with no problems until it arrives.

Good luck.

RayH

Unfortunately, the rotor arm I bought didn't come with the camshaft attached to it, it comes seperate. The picture with it attached is the old one. I tried taking it off but those bolts feel like they're welded on there. As for the shield thanks for the input, I'll probably just replace it... I can't imagine it being a 1,000$ part...hopefully haha

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2007 BMW 328XI

DMC-12, definitely replace the back piece and O-ring. I guess you meant to say "camshaft adapter", obviously the distributor rotor doesn't come with the camshaft attached. From your pictures it appears you removed the old distributor rotor from the distributor rotor adapter so I don't understand your problem with the three 3mm allen head bolts. At this point best to buy parts you need from a MB dealer. Avoid buying a Uro distributor rotor adapter as Uro parts are inferior Chinese parts.

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Fred Hoelzle

The rotor definitely doesn't come with the metal piece behind it. And you didn't need to remove the metal piece to get the rotor off, the 3 socket-headed bolts should be removed to get the rotor off.

The rear shield, I recall was something crazy like €170 not, mercifully, $1000. And replace the O-ring too, just for good measure.

As the last chap said, don't economise on the ignition parts, MB is best. Bosch and Beru might be OK but there are questions being asked now about their quality. I had a Bremi rotor and it died in a few months.

It looks as if you're on the road to success.

RayH

Well went to Mercedes today and got the camshaft for the rotor, it cost me $42.78 and they actually had it in stock! I asked about the back plate and it was $113 and the o-ring was 30 something dollars Unfortunately, this was above my budget for this so I had to skip the plate and new o-ring...for now. Went home and installed everything and started her up.. No more dying out at idle!!! I drove her probably about 50 miles today and she ran like a champ!! So happy. The only thing is at idle, there are little "ripples" and sometimes i'll get a big ripple and the anxiety makes me thing it's going to start to fight to stay running but it doesn't happen. I don't know if now I maybe need new wires? Last time they were changed was in 2011.. maybe I'm due? Lol So my main issue is fixed! thank you so much guys for helping me with this, you all have once again pulled me from the fire! Hopefully I'll figure this ripple issue out!

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2007 BMW 328XI

DMC-12, I checked online and the backing plate (Bosch ignition suppression cover) is available for $65. The website I checked didn't list the O-ring, but you should be able to source it for about $5. Best to replace both ASAP so your ignition system functions as designed. If you purchased high quality ignition wires (Bosch or Beru) in 2011 they should be fine; however, if you opted for cheap wires they could be problematic.

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Fred Hoelzle

If cash is short, I would clean (I usually use trichloroethylene) that shield thoroughly and fill that crack with some high temperature epoxy in a VERY thin coat, on either side. When it's cured, I would spray the entire shield with silicon fluid and then solicon grease the O-ring before installing both.

I bet you'd have a year or two's service out of that.

My son laughs at me because I often do repair jobs at home which is 50 Km from the dealer. So, I break something and the only anwer is "epoxy and cable ties". So far, I have repaired both the idle control valve hoses like that and the seatbelt buckle (but without the cable ties). The first ICV hose repair has lasted 5 years and is still going strong!!!

All the best.

RayH

Hmmm. Check out the rotors on the distributor(s) of this BMW V12. Look familiar?

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Objects in closer are mirror than they appear.