Thanks again for all the words of advice everyone, I'm taking it all in. Thanks for the link TylerH860. The 1994 silver wagon is gorgeous.

First thing tomorrow I am making some calls to see if I can find a MB indy-mechanic who can offer a reasonable quote.

The front end on my wagon is good and the trany is fine. I imagine the self-leveling system is next to go though. It has not shown any signs of failure but living in the north east has got to be tough on it. I am wondering what that expense would be. Let's say I find a MB mechanic to do the previously mentioned work for $2500-$3000 and then the self-leveling dies this year, what will that put me back? I have heard there are less expensive fixes, such as putting in some other type of shock or something, is that true? If not what is the price for a typical rebuild?

$3k to do the head gasket? That is not a 28 hour job LOL. I did my head (never done it before or anything close) myself and it took me about 8 hours in + out. For a professional familiar with this head, I wouldn't be surprised if it could be done in less than 5hours in + out.

For $3000 for the head gasket better be including a fully rebuilt head, a very nice cleanup, and a ticket to Hawaii!

Why not do the wire harness yourself and let an independent do the head gasket? You could get away with $1200 and that's it!

There is nothing wrong with running without SLS...I have been for over 4 years now. As long as the accumulators are good, (as I understand) the ride will not be rough. Mine does not raise when weight is put on, but I have moved house 3 times in it and had the rear end full of stuff and had nary an issue at all.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

To have a head rebuilt like that does cost quite a bit of money. You could probably get away with a head gasket and valve seals if the car was not overheated. The bill on my C36 for a complete head rebuild (the previous owner did this thankfully) was nearly $4000.

You might also ask them how much to do a motor swap, since Dave Hendy has the perfect motor. They may be more forgiving to do that easier job. If its thousands less total with the motor, then it is probably worth it. You'd also have a car that is much easier to sell, since the general population would probably want a 50,000 motor over a 200,000 motor with a rebuilt head, and you've saved yourself thousands. For the long haul, it really is a gamble either way. 200,000 mile motor with the original bottom end, or 50,000 miles motor with the original head gasket. Which will go longer without a major failure, who knows...

I would ask Hendy, especially since he's close to you, to make sure you get the next replacement wiring harness that comes his way.

As for the SLS, the shocks run around $400 each, accumulators $100 each, and valve $300.00. There's no kit for putting in regular shocks that I know of, so fabricating one correctly would probably be more expensive unless you've got some German Engineering savvy running in your blood.

I rarely see a 300e/E320 transmission make it past 200k, but there are plenty of forum members similar anecdotal evidence to the contrary. I've never had one done, but I imagine $1500-2000 done right? This stuff usually happens with little warning, but there's some clues. If it takes more than a second to get in reverse or a forward gear for example.

I suppose your immediate options are:

A: Sell yours for $1500 then fork out another $4000 for a nice lower mileage example, like the one I listed with the rebuilt head, wiring harness and 100 other things. If you needed to fire sale it you could get most of your money out of it.

B: $3000 for a head rebuild plus $1000 for a wiring harness with a 190,000 miles car. Might be worth $3000 when finished.

C: approximately $1500 for a motor and swap plus $1000 for a wiring harness with a 190,000 miles car. Might be worth $3500 when you're done.

D: just do a head gasket and valve seals for $1500 plus $1000 for wiring harness. Might be worth $2500.

E: Quit your job or give up your nights and weekends, be down a car for a while, and do all the work yourself other than head machining if you desire.

I'm just spit balling, and I'm sure folks will disagree, but option A or C look the best to me. I'd rather spend my free time enjoying my cars or relaxing than doing heavy wrenching on them. Little things are fine, though.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Drop a C36 motor into it.




They can be had for about 500-1500.




Thats one of my current projects.

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-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

Drool. There's so few C36s that finding a motor would be a tall order. I believe there were only around 300 imported to the US.

Why don't you document the build, Justin? I would follow it closely for obvious reasons.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Sometimes you need to have the discipline to cut your future losses by knowing when to stop spending money on what may well currently be a cheap project car. A 16 year old car with a couple hundred thousand miles on it already, in the mechanical condition your's may be in - qualifies or comes very close to qualifying as a project car. The question you need to ask yourself is; if you didn't already own this car - how much would you be willing to sink into it, as a project car in order to put it back in reliable running order? And once in order - how long will it be to the next major repair bill(s)?

An old adage around here is: The highest priced Mercedes-Benz is the one you think you got cheap.

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'06 E320 CDI - PEWTER/CHARCOAL
'17 Corvette (C7) Stingray Vert /M7-speed manual trans/3LT/MSRC/FE2/Z51 19"-20" Blk wheels - Arctic White / Jet Black Napa leather interior

Sometimes however, it does not pay to change horses in the middle of the river.

If the wagon you have is a known entity, and there's no reason to suspect SLS failure either if it has been treated well with good fluid and not frequently loaded in the rear, find a good indy to do the work and move on. Do plan on the wire harness and find out whether you have an early or late '95 harness in case a donor shows up (break point by VIN).

Usually, changing cars costs me a minimum of $1000 to do fluids, filters, maybe tires and belt, a few simple items. I can count on it. Why change if you're happy?

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Do you know if the wiring harness was improved on in late 1995? I have not physicaly checked the harness, I am just assuming the worst. Is it possible that I have an improved one? How do I go about identifying through the vin when my car was built?

On a side note, this car is my only means of transportation so I cannot look at it like a project car. I don't mind small issues arising, its 15 years old and I haven't had a car payment in years. But I can't go many days in a row without it. Thank god a family member is letting me borrow their Saturn Ion! HA HA!!!

What a piece of junk! The Ion that is. I am treating it right though. Brought it to Walmart for an oil chage, per request of the owner! LOL!

You should check the date of mfg on your harness. I found that my 1995 harness had been replaced with one with a 1997 mfg date. I think that it was replaced when the car was sold to the second owner as a StarMark car.

The original harness will be no good. Yes, the new harnesses will be free of defects....it was common problem (remedied)and even if it was replaced initially within the first few or 5 years, its probably a good idea to go new now with that item. Fixing this car up is better than buying a newer one IMO. I've seen W124 wagons with 400+K on them..of course with the $$ spent to keep them up.

It will say on the VIN sticker what month it was made/finished. Doesn't mean the parts on it weren't from a shelf from the previous model year though.

Where are you? Pix? Someone here will take it off your hands I'm sure
These are great cars still, even the sick ones.

__________________
Jim

1992 500E
2007 CLK63
2003 Audi RS6
2001 Audi allroad

As fred mentioned, there should be a laser-printed tag on the harness visible between the battery and inner HVAC system (might need to remove the panel behind the battery). You're looking for a FD (fabrication date) later than the car's production, probably '97 or later?

The original harness is not improved in '95.

Look on line for the harness, the VIN break is on there.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Thank you guys. I will look into the harness situation.

Just got an over the phone quote from a MB-indy shop of around $1800 for the head, (with no surprises). I have one other shop that will get back to me tomorrow. I intend on bringing it to them to get a real quote for everything. If the cost of the head job alone does not come down, and the wiring harness is gonzo, and I can't find one quickly for a reasonable price, I am afraid I will be letting it go.

Obviously I will not be bringing it to a dealership for trade in. I may bring it back to the guy who I bought it from 7 or 8 years ago. He only sells MB's and may give me something decent for it towards a trade. If not I will be sure to post it here for someone who can appreciate what it is. I live in Lee NH by the way.

I'm hoping for the best right now though. I have always known that I had a special car and was lucky for it. You know I have never seen another 1995 in person! Only 1994's. At least every time I have asked someone who had one that looked like mine the said it was a 1994. Pretty rare, at least around here.

While this can be true, it all depends... does everything need to work "like new"? than this might be true (edit I still even question that... I'm sure many things could be refreshed for MUCH less than a new MB and all in all keep driving your car on the cheap)...

But... and I'm sure others would second this "but"...

I have several vehicles that haven't cost me much upfront or later:

• 87 Mercedes 300D purchased with 161k for $500 in halfway decent aesthetic shape and needing minor repairs (old suspension/steering parts and bushings, glow plugs, etc). It's cost me maybe $2k in updates ($500 of that being in Air conditioning and some other of that in updates that it could have lived without like new injector nozzles etc.) I've probably put $200-300 into it in 3 years and that is nothing major. I think that's a cheap car.
• 84 Mercedes 300D pretty much no money into it other than brakes, mono valve, minor upkeep. I didn't keep it long but I'd bet the new owner has done well with it.
• 84 Suburban Diesel. $1200 upfront... probably $300 in the past 4 years.

Those are just a few (my own personal). My wife and I are paying back LOTS of college debt and while not show cars, these have been enjoyable; reliable transportation and saved us a car payment. Learning to work on MBs has been a great experience. It's well worth the while.

I would think that your 95 wagon would last well fixed. You'll have to spend some money in getting things repaired/renewed even after your fix but like the others said, it'd be WELL worth fixing. Also, there's a good security in that it's your car. You know where it's been and you know how it's been taken care of. You don't get that with another used car and you'll for CERTAIN pay WAY more than it'd cost to keep this up if you buy new. If you don't want to have to have things break on you as a surprise, get on here and learn what Preventative Maintenance measures to take and beat the problems.

And... can't stress enough... find someone who loves MB cars to do your work at a reasonable rate. Talk with them and get a feel for their character. Just because they love MBs and have a wrench and even know a thing or two doesn't make them a good person to work on your car. I learned that the hard way. CHARACTER goes a long way. I had a hard enough time finding a good Indy that I just do everything myself. You'll amaze yourself if you get your hands dirty doing what you know and learning what you don't know (any time you have a question about a MB specific just ask). You'll do way more than you thought you could and you'll do it right. When in doubt, that's what this place is for. We'll help you!

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-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Awesome, I'm going to use that if you don't mind.

skinnison, it's a tough call. I think deep down you want to take the opportunity to make a change, and there's nothing wrong with that. On the one hand you acknowledge that you love the car, and it has given you great service. On the other you acknowledge the necessary repairs are expensive, and worry about future ones. For my part, I just hate seeing MBs with good bodies go to the scrapyard. The scrapyard is for Chevy Luminas, not cool MB wagons. So you'll have people here that want you to keep it and fix it. It figures.
I'm thinking that your car is destined for the 'yard though and it makes me sad. If it were me I'd find some way to get it fixed properly for as cheaply as I could. It would take a bit of hustling but I'd find a way. However I have a second car, and a bicycle.
For me, the w124>w210, but I always have preferred the brick-shaped MBs over the festooned later models. The w210s look like something a housewife would drive, w124s look athletic and masculine. In my view the w210s are NOT as good, and they have their own set of issues, the most disconcerting being the weak structural welds on the front coil spring perches, and general rust issues throughout. That's a big turnoff as I despise rust. But, if you want something comparable you will either have to find one of these, or another w124 wagon. Both options, if found used, will require work. I don't care if the seller has a stack of service receipts two inches thick the car will need something. You will pay more for a different car initially than the head work on your current car would cost, and then the unknowns, even if they are minor, will nickle and dime you to death until you conquer them all. Are you ready for that? A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. You know what you have right now- if you get something different, newer, you won't know. Catch-22!
At the end of it all at the very least you had a constructive discussion and made the choice that you thought was best.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

Couple more questions regarding repairs...

I was told by a MB indy-mechanic that the head should be planed to make sure there is no warping even though the car has never overheated. Does this sound necessary? Does it add alot to the cost?

Should I be concerned about the crank seal leak? Obviously it needs to be fixed but could there be major damage from it?

What is the average lifespan for this trany? Is there a chance I can get 250,000 to 300,000 mile out of it? Never had a problem with it yet.

I picked up the car tonight. It drives perfect. Purr's. Can't hear the engine at the stop light. I would never know there is anything wrong with it if it were not for the coolant light on the dash. Obviously I am still hoping I can get it fixed for a decent price. This car is not going to a scrap yard d.delano! One way or another someone who appreciates it will be driving it.