220s

Have located a very attractive 1960 220S with 86,000+ miles.
This six (6) cylinder is oufitted with Dual Solex carbs and has the
original color paint, code (140H) Not original paint! A real looker
but uncharted waters. Asking price $4,800. Have not talked with owner as of yet but would like very much too. What should I ask and look for regarding the possible purchase of this fine steed.
Bumpers could use some work or replacement, but body appears
solid. Any information would appreciated.

[Ed Richardson]

Body rust is probably the biggest problem. Take a magnet and find out how much filler is hidden under the paint. Otherwise, they are pretty straight forward and parts are plentiful. Is this a W111 model? Ed

Ed, what should I look for to see if it is a W111? Is this related to frame length? Also, could this particular vehicle be worth investing
in if I were to go from bumper to bumper and allow it to glow once again. If not I may as well turn my efforts to the 87 420SEL
and move on. Thank you for the return reply....
vance

[cth350]

That's a high price, even for a "rust free" copy. I would expect it to need nothing for that much money.

If it needs any of upholstry, chrome, wood, door seals, the price should drop significantly. If there is bondo hiding rust, again, the price should drop.

If it's got little fins, it's a 111. If it has round fenders, it's a ponton (and it won't be that year).

Check out http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html

-CTH

cth350, It has the fins and also stacked headlights, and wrap around bumpers front and rear. Though I don`t see a listing for the 220S, is it possible the present owner may be mistaken??
The list for the "Fin-body Sedans includes Models 220b/230S/220Sb/and finally 220SEb, but no "220S".!!! Looks to me that it is certainly a W111, but I`m not clear on the model designation. In any event does this particular vehicle hold any $$value if it was restored to mint condition?? It is presently running and could easily be used as daily runner but would bring the mileage up and the value down so it`s kinda a "catch 22"!!
I don`t have a lot of time to decide one way or the other because others have expressed interest and if I delay to long my decision, oopps there goes another one by the way side. I do appreciate your time and feedback and thank-you kindly for the quick return reply.
vance

[cth350]

The b of 220Sb doesn't show up on the car itself. That's just there on paper to distinguish it from the the previous ponton.

-CTH

[bstreep]

Vance,

Here are some values for a 1960 4 door sedan:

6 - 700
5 - 2150
4 - 3600
3 - 7200
2 - 12600
1 - 18000

What you are describing is probably in the "3" range, assuming there isn't a bunch of rust and/or painted over bondo. I can assure you that you can't get this car up to a 1 or probably even a 2 for the price difference. If you want a nice driver that you can tinker with and maybe put some sweat equity into to bring it up to a low "2", it could be a candidate. You might want to make sure that the bumpers can either be re-chromed or you can get reasonably priced replacements. Chrome on older cars tends to be pricey...

[Ed Richardson]

Vance, in these vintages, the first three numbers of the VIN denote the body style. From your decription it is a 111 chasis. The number posted on the auto, i.e. 220, denote the engine size. A 220 is 2200cc's, or 2.2 liter. The S denotes "super", or the deluxe version, and E is einspritz or fuel injection.
Additional a "b", or even "c" indicates a revision to the model and those letters are posted only in documents.
Value is subjetive. What your interest is has a lot to do with the value. In this case, these are great cars, but not historic or "collectable". If you want to have fun as a diy'er, these are great to work on. Manuals and parts are available and there is a good support group here. Decision time, good luck. Ed