ok ,will try and post.

..........and Make sure the shifter is in "P"

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A Dalton

jump it and no start.

OK

I see you have a meter [ or test lamp] , so ..
Test for 12v from a good ground - and + lead on terminal #3 [ your V] at x49/2 with the key in the START position.............

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A Dalton

no voltage on either 3 or 4 in off or start position. Both 3 & 4 show low to no omhs of resistance to ground in any position. This is wrong, Right?

You want to clarify that?

Are you telling me you have full continuity from ground to either V wire??
..or do you mean no cont.

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A Dalton

full continuity from ground on both wires.

and by the way, I did test that I was getting 12v at the x27 center pin with ignition switched to start this morning.

...and ??????
Did the starter spin?

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A Dalton

no , I didn't jump it to 12 volts. We had tested that yesterday. I just put the volt meter on the switch side to see if I was getting 12volts when switch turned to start. To be double sure, I just went out again and jumped from the battery to x27 and started the car. I put the voltmeter on the switch side of x27 and got 10.5-11.5 volts when turning the switch to start. I don't understand why it won't start with the switch in this condition.

The starter draw is too much for the k38 contacts to handle , but they will handle the low draw of a test lamp or meter.

My suspect is the k38 and the cluster has to be pulled to get to it.
The terminals you want to jumper there are 1 & 3, which are relay terminals 30 and 87.

That will eliminate the K38 from the starter circuit.

You also have a ATA problem that may or may not be the reason for the K38 not working, but that is another story. I still would recheck all fuses to see if you can get the LED ARM lamp to come on..did you check the other ATA fuses I mentioned?

I also would like to be sure your battery is up to full charge.

Most guys that have ATA failure just jumper the k38 permanently by soldering a jumper across the K38 terminals 30 and 87 on the relay and plug it back in and be done with it...you only loose Alarm starter interlock.
If relay does not do the trick, check the ignition sw,...I have another test for that.
The power goes from bat+ to ign/sw, to K38, to NSS , to X27, to starter......just for your info on the series chain logic...any open circuit/contacts/poor connections in that chain results in no power to starter.

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A Dalton

going in reverse order... It seems as though I have power all the way thru the circuit to x27. And when I supply power direct to x27 from Bat I get start. This puzzles me.

I do have a nice battery charger and topped everything up and battery reads 12.5 I will test it under load though.

I'm not familiar with the k38 or pulling the instrument cluster. any pointers to forum discussion appreciated.

I was puzzled by the continuity on x49/2 here is the break down for your mental fun.
i = infinite resistance
0= zero resistance

In Park
Switch on
1=i
2=0
3=0
4=0
switch off
1=0
2=0
3=0
4=0

In Reverse
switch on
1=i
2=i
3=i
4=0
switch off
1=0
2=0
3=i
4=0

in neutral
switch on
1=i
2=0
3=i
4=0
switch off
1=0
2=0
3=i
4=0
I can't find any fuses labeled with ata but have replaced number 5 and tested all.

Your R checks mean nothing b/c NSS does not just intigrate the starter circuit..it also feeds Ea , ASR , TNNsignal, etc...so , until you isolate every one of those circuits , you can not check the starter circuit.
So , we go in the sequece chain as I posted...

If you are getting power to x27 and no starter, but you get starter with x27 bat jumper. then you do not have sufficient power at x27 from the logic chain [ ign/sw/nss/k38/etc] ...to trigger the starter soinoid...ie, a poor connection in that feed ... Power to X27 has to be the SAME as Bat voltage or someting is bad....that is why we jumper each link in that chain..
to find which one is the culprit....somewhere in that chain is a voltage open or drop....your ohms readings are not needed on this application.I will see if I can post the schematic for starter circuit and then it will be very plain to see this series circuit.
I know it is hard for you to visualize , as it is hard for me to read the schematic and have you come at me with physical wire discriptions and questions.

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A Dalton

thanks for all the help.
I didn't know if the resistance readings were a clue. Will wait to hear from you on what to try next.

What to try next has been posted back in post #41.
You have to get to the K38 relay and jumper as described in that post.

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A Dalton