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#1
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Mixing Dino Oil and Syn to Make Syn Blend, Good Idea?
Hey guys, I am currently using 15W40 dino oil for my W202 C-Class. In the past i've heard some honda techs talk about mixing a little bit of Synthetic oil with Dino oil to enhance the properties of the oil and ease the burden of an aging car from pumpin the thicker dino oil.Personally I see using 100% syn.oil in my car as a waste of money as it doesn't require it.
Would this seem to be a good idea? perhaps using 75% dino oil and 25% syn oil to make a blend. Does anyone see any benefits by doing this? and what are your thoughts on this idea? I'd like to hear ur input on this idea. thanks,
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My Cars Mercedes CLS Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite R.I.P. Mercedes C-Class - W202 Lemon Mercedes ML - Warrior VW Jetta – Worst Car I ever owned - Alot of problems |
#2
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It's probably a question of whether it makes you feel better - the engine really isn't going to care whether you use petro, synthetic or a mixture.
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#3
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If you are concerned about the weight of your oil and/or your cars ability to pump it around, go to 0/40, 5/40, or even 5/30.
Changing dino oil every 3-5K would prob make a bigger impact than blending.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#4
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Keep it simple,
follow mfr's rec and you won't have to be second-guessing your personal brew:
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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter) Baum spring compressor "for rent" |
#5
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Nowadays mixing oils equals mixing a lot of aditives.
This may mean LOTS of trouble. So, there is no simple answer. I'd say: Use either the manuf. spec or better. Probably the best compromising is a semi-synth - a kind of technically made mix. (btw semi-synths may appear in the manuf. lists) Jorge PS: When I mean better I mean: better but included in the manufacturer list. Because of sludge many manufacturers are moving toward synthetics. I am moving from semi to full - concluded that the price ticket is not that big and it is always a cheap insurance policy vis a vis servicing a MB. Last edited by BrazBenz; 01-24-2007 at 06:40 PM. |
#6
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I believe many semisynthetics are regular oil blended with 20% synthetic stock, so you're essentially accomplishing the same thing.
You may want to post your question on the following web site: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#7
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why bother toying around with the oil, your car deserve a mineral base oil, you'll thank me for it ones you encounter gumming on the cylinder head with using blended or synthetic oil on your C class. then your nightmare of uneven idling and all types of internal combustion problem will haunt your C class.
Stay safe no need to fancy all those oil stuff. follow strick periodic preventive maintenance. |
#8
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Funny how nobody needs a degree in chemistry when it comes to engine oil!
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Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles |
#9
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Quote:
I simply thought the blend would make sludging less of an issue, and make life easier for the engine to pump oil on those cold mornings..... ![]()
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My Cars Mercedes CLS Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite R.I.P. Mercedes C-Class - W202 Lemon Mercedes ML - Warrior VW Jetta – Worst Car I ever owned - Alot of problems |
#10
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Trueog, I wouldn't put a lot of stock in cool's post. Your engine will NOT gum up because of this brew you're proposing, not any more than usual. Except for additive clash - which I suspect is not a serious concern - I see no harm in beefing up regular oil with synthetic.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K Last edited by Kestas; 01-25-2007 at 10:23 AM. |
#11
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Truog,
I thought by now someone would finally ask you what model/engine you have. So, what is it? Uberwgn is correct IMHO. Certainly, the M111 had sludging with std oil and there was a class action suit about it. The mfg now requires synthetic in those. Your climate is mild so you don't necessarily need the extreme cold flowability of a 0W. My decision would also depend on whether the engine is burning any oil or not. Mike
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#12
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Quote:
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My Cars Mercedes CLS Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite R.I.P. Mercedes C-Class - W202 Lemon Mercedes ML - Warrior VW Jetta – Worst Car I ever owned - Alot of problems |
#13
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Oil threads are so cool!
Opinions are like ... well, you know. Sludging is caused by not changing the lubricant often enough - dino oils require changing more often - whether it is a MB or a Toyota. MB went to synthetics so it could stick with the increased intervals for changing - the same intervals that were causing sludging with dino oils. Synthetics are clearly better - in every respect. They are being increasingly specified because of this. "Honda techs" discussing mixing oils is pretty funny ... Switch to synthetic - any major brand of synthetic is significantly better than any dino oil. Just a fact. Oil threads are so cool!
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George Stephenson 1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet) former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car former 1985 300 CD - great car former 1981 300 TD - good car former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg |
#14
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i had just bought mobil 10w30 synthetic blend for $1.99/quart at kragen. Im planning to use it in the S420 once the next oil is due for a change, currently it has mobil 1 5w30.
It seems as though the car gets better mileage with a synthetic. And this was the same with my diesel. Back when i had the 300SD i used delo 400 15w40, performance wise it was the same clackity ol diesel. But when i switched the the 5w40 synthetic my mpg's went up and the cold starts were better. Id say the best choice would be either a full synthetic or a synthetic blend. But a synthetic blend that wasnt done by mixing two different oils even if they were both of the same weight and brand.
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
#15
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I too love oil threads.
Let's put it this way: My Jeep has 167k miles on it. I always ran a conventional or synthetic blend (usually 4x4 synth blend). This most recent change, I took out conventional Pennzoil 10w30 (the worst oil I've ever used in it) and replaced it with Mobil-1 5w30. So far, it's been the best oil I've ever put in it. The ticking is almost completely gone from the engine (except when stone cold on sub-25°F days). Also, I was getting 14.5-15MPG with the conventional. Without changing my driving conditions at all (cruise at the same speed) I am now getting 15.5-17MPG. My last tank claims 18.0MPG according to my receipt, but I think I may have missed a possible gallon at fill up. That would still put me at 16.67 though... I never thought it would make such a difference in such an old engine that doesn't even have overhead cams. I was wrong.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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