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  #31  
Old 10-11-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Well that's not good is it? Best of luck getting a solution - I hope they help you out.
Yes. The solution is to get a good set of Gears.
I have been having problems with My Computer and it won't let Me leave Feed Back on ebay (where I bought the Gear Kit).

So I was already on My way to the Library to use the Computer when the Package with the Gears Arrived. I took a quick look and went to the Library and left good Feedback.

Later when I found the Spider Gears rattled on the Shaft and pulled out the Micrometers and so on I discoverd the too much clearance issues.

Since I had already left good Feedback I lost My leverage to netotiate with the Seller to pay for the return Shipping.
I just came back from shipping the Gear Kit Back and it was about $12.75 USD.

So I will be putting this project asside till I hear from the Motive Gear Company that made the Kit.
If it turns out that I discovered a problem for them they might compensete Me a new Kit properly machined.

I had a similar fitment problem with Laser Fuel Injection Delivery Valve Sockets I bought frou the UK. They would not go over the Delivery Valve Holders like they were supposed to.
I took a buch of measuerments of the Laser Socket and the Hazet socket and Emailed the Laser company and ask the why they did not simply copy the dimensiond of the Hazet Socket.
It took about 3 months but the sent me 5 free sockets.

In the that time I was also able to fix the ones with the wrong dimensions and I slold most of them.

Except for the Gear Kit all the rest of the Parts have arrived except that I am waiting for a Speciall Tool.
They had the used Tool on ebay at auction for $80 USD. I looked up the Tool and the cheapest I could find one New was $555.00 USD +shipping!

So I bid on the Tool and got it for $80 with free shipping as no one else bid on it.

I am wondering if I can make some copies of that Tool to sell.

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  #32  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
Yeah a press comes in really handy for rear axle work and is mandatory for rebuild of some manual transmissions. I've driven stuff off and on over the years and have gotten by, but now that usable Chinese presses are so cheap, I will get one if I ever do another axle or trans.
I missed this Post. I have a Press I bought back in the 1980s. It is kind of buried in My Garage as I had not used for a long time.

Also with what I have I don't think I could press it off as the carrier is to fat to fit between the shelf of the press.

What using the Gear Puller is shown in the Manual. However, in the Manual you also have a nice insert to put in the Carrier End for the threaded shaft of the Gear Puller to push on and there is a better tool to grip the bottom of the Bearing.
That being said I have done the Gear Puller thing with the Bearing Plat I used many times before and I found this one to be much harder than the past. Unless it is just that My Senior Citizen Ship has caught up to Me.
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  #33  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Well bad news.
The Motive Gears Gear Set is made in India.

Worse than that the new Spider Gears fit on the shaft is 0.0035 sloppier than the worn Spider Gears even when measured when Measured over an un-worn part of the original Spider Gear Shaft.
The OD of the New Side Gears Bearing Area is 0.001 smaller than the Worn Bearing Area Outside Diameter on the old Side Gears.

My measurements. I have a 0-1 Venire and the Side Gear OD was measured with a 1-2 inch Mandrel Micrometer.
Original Spider (small Gears) Gear Shaft Outside Diameter measured in a unworn area with a Venire Micrometer 0.764”

Old Worn Spider Gear Bearing Bore #1 Gear0.7705”
Clearance between Spider Gear #1 gear, and unworn portion of the old Shaft 0.0065

Old Worn Spider Gear Bearing Bore #2, gear 0.7707”
Clearance between Spider Gear #2 and unworn portion of the old Shaft 0.0067”

New Spider Gear Shaft 0.7645”

New Spider Gear Bearing Bore #1, 0.7745”
Clearance between Spider Gear Shaft and Spider Gear #1, 0.0100
New Spider Gear Bearing Bore, #2 0.7740”
Clearance between Spider Gear Shaft and Spider Gear #2, 0.0095

The larges clearance between the Old Gears and old shaft is 0.0065
The largest Clearance between the New Gears and New Shaft is 0.0100

That means the New Gear and Shaft Clearance is 0.0035” sloppier than the old worn Gears and Shaft????
In shot it is as if the new gear and shaft have what is like 0.0035” of wear more than the old Gear and Shaft.

Measurement of the Differential Side Gear Outside Diameter of the Bearing area.
Old right worn Side Gear Bearing Area Outside Diameter 1.495”
Old Left worn Side Gear Bearing area Outside Diameter 1.498”

Both of the New Side Gear Bearing Area Outside Diameter is 1.497.

The New Side Gear Bearing Ares is 0.001 smaller than the Old worn Gear bearing Area. This means the New Gears will fit sloppier than the old worn gears would.
Well what is worse than new parts that are sloppier than the Original Used parts?
They answer is that you buy a New Spider Gear Kit from USA Standard Gear (USAStandardGear.com) and find that when you get it assembled the Gears will not turn unless you tap them with an Aluminum Punch.

Worse in the add of the eBay Seller it has they want a 15% restocking charge plus they want you to pay the shipping back to the with the same packaging. The Original Box the Gears came in is larger than a Flat Rate Box meaning it is going to cost more than the Fat Rate would to ship.

USA Standard Gears Website has not "contact us" section on it. Although I found if you bugger up the part number in the search feature a Telephone number comes up.
Since I would rather communicate with Email (you have a record of that) instead of the Telephone I plugged the Telephone number into a google search.
It lead to a different company; one of the Sales Emails.
http://www.ringpinion.com/About/Sales.aspx

The USA Standard Gears did have a list of distributors and I emailed the local one with My problem and ask them for a Email address to the USA Standard Gear support.

I got the gear set about 5 days ago but this time I made sure I did not leave Feedback until I tried the Gears.

Today I Emailed the Company and told them My problem and said I was not going to ship the Gears Back to them due to the total expense of their return policy. I also explained the lack of a contact us on the USA Std. Gear site and ask them to provide one.
I also said I was going to decide what type of Feedback I was going to leave within the next 2 Days.
Less then one Hour later they refunded all I had spend and did not ask for the return of the Gear set.
So at least that part is over with.

I have had problems with New Gear stets X2 and gotten no where as far as getting My Van fixed.
I am thinking on dumping the whole Gear issue and getting a Limited slip Differential Carrier but have not done the parts survey on that.

In the Mean time My Tool situation to do the Job has improved some.
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  #34  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:30 PM
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I bought a used Tool as shown in the Diagram. When you are shimming and spacing the Differential Carrier in the Differential you stick this Tool on one side white no spacers or shims. The Tool has opposing wedges and sort of expands and it pushes the differential carrier to the side.
When you have filled the space with the Tool you pull it out and Measure it with a Micrometer and that tells you what sized Shim/Spacer pack you need (at least it is a starting point).
The Tool Cost Me $80 (shipped free) on eBay. I did some Google Searches and the Cheapest new Tool was $555; one place wanted over $700 for the Tool new.
Attached Thumbnails
Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-kent-more-differntial-tool-j-22779-.jpg   Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-kent-moore-differential-tools-pic.jpg  
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  #35  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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Any chance of a picture of the tool in action?

It doesn't do the pinion position does it?
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  #36  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Any chance of a picture of the tool in action?

It doesn't do the pinion position does it?
I am not to the point where I can take a Picture and when I looked I on the Internet I did not see one of it in use. There is a small pic in the Manual.
You stick it in where the Shim Pack would go on the Differential Carrier.

It may or may not be helpful with the Pinion and Ring Gear Back Lash.
I don't think it would be helpful for that because the Carrier, Bearings, Spacer, and Shims all need to be in place and the Bearing Caps torqued in order for the Backlash to be accurate.

There is several Tools in the Pinion depth Tool kit to figure out which Shims go behind the inner Pinion Shaft Race.
However, I am not changing the inner Pinion Bearing or the Pinion and Ring Gear so that should already be set.
I am replacing the Outer Pinion Bearing set. But, that will not change the Pinion Depth.

Here is a used Tool the same as I bought sold at $175.
http://www.penybonttools.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2624401
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  #37  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:59 PM
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OK I took some pics of the Manual on how the Shim Tool is used.

The first pic shows a top view of the Tool being inserted at the left end of the Differential Carrier and in the Shim/Spacer Area. You stick it in there with no Shims/Spacers.

You adjust the tool to take up the space and pull it out and measure the thickness of the Tool and it go find some Shims/Spacers that fit that size.
Attached Thumbnails
Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-kent-moore-tool-1.jpg   Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-kent-moore-tool-2.jpg  
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  #38  
Old 10-23-2013, 04:23 PM
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Where the Carrier Bearings riding too high in the bearing Race?

First Pic the old Bearing Race.

The next pic is the New Bearing Race. I could not find My Prussian Blue so I smeared Chapstick on the Bearing Race; inserted the Bearing and rolled it.
You can see from the area where the Rollers did not contact at the bottom and compare it to the worn area on the old bearing Race and you see that the are the same.
Attached Thumbnails
Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-bearing-race-wear-1.jpg   Need Help Finding Cause Of Wear in 92 Astro Van Differential-bearing-race-wear-2.jpg  
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  #39  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:13 PM
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A bit late to the party, but my solution has always been to toss the entire thing and replace it with a limited slip from a wrecking yard.

The difficult part is locating a limited slip, but swapping out the unit is routinely a one hour job.
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  #40  
Old 10-23-2013, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Idle View Post
A bit late to the party, but my solution has always been to toss the entire thing and replace it with a limited slip from a wrecking yard.

The difficult part is locating a limited slip, but swapping out the unit is routinely a one hour job.
From Post #33; "I am thinking on dumping the whole Gear issue and getting a Limited slip Differential Carrier but have not done the parts survey on that."
I have been thinking about that also.
But, I read that some People like to burn Rubber and it uses up the limited Slip Differential fast. Maybe that would not happen Van.

What I really need are 2 good Side Gears.

I am also left with a free Spider Gear Kit that does not fit. If I can find a way to remove some metal from the back of the little Spider Gears I believe I could use the Kit. The bugger is the back of the Gears are hemispherical. I can't think of an accurate way to remove the Metal.

I could also gain Clearance by facing off (I have a Lathe) the Side Gear where it mates with the Carrier; where the thrust Washer Goes but that would move the Gears away and make the C-washer lock not as good and the Axle would have more in and out play.

Unlucky for me the Aftermarket company made the shape of the Gear Teeth on their Side Gears different so I cannot just use the old small Spider Gears.
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  #41  
Old 10-23-2013, 08:41 PM
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An other option is that a local Shop Welcome to Racerpartsworld.com | Long beach, CA is about 4 miles away from me. They carry the USA Std. Gear Sets (the last set that would not fit).

The are a distributor of that company's Gear sets. I need to take it to them and see what they say. Maybe there was a bad run of parts or parts got mixed up.

They put the Gears on a Cardboard and sort of bubble packaged it and stick the whole Cardboard in a Box. However, there is no sort of part number on the Card Board. To me that means someone could stick the wrong gears into the Box with the correct Part Number on it.
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  #42  
Old 10-25-2013, 05:59 PM
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I'd say.

The side gears / 1 c clip is not OE GM, and one shaft has been replaced.

OE side gears are made from powerded metal and look like they were compression molded and likely have no final machining. The one you have looks like it was machined around the tips of the gear and, the seat for the C clip is on a taper making for a small contact area.

The c clip should be very hard, take a file to a unworn portion of the clip, it should not make a groove. ( or much of one ) Is the left c clip worn on both sides? If so it was flipped over at some point.

Since the axle splines into the side gear, the c clip does not spin against the side gear but there are some pretty heavy forces trying to pull the axle out of the gear. The wear you have is more from lateral forces pounding the clip than any rotation.

The lower part of the splines are shaped differently making me think one was replaced.

Bearing wear looks OK, but I'd replace them and _NOT_use China bearings.
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  #43  
Old 10-25-2013, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
I'd say.

The side gears / 1 c clip is not OE GM, and one shaft has been replaced.

OE side gears are made from powerded metal and look like they were compression molded and likely have no final machining. The one you have looks like it was machined around the tips of the gear and, the seat for the C clip is on a taper making for a small contact area.

The c clip should be very hard, take a file to a unworn portion of the clip, it should not make a groove. ( or much of one ) Is the left c clip worn on both sides? If so it was flipped over at some point.

Since the axle splines into the side gear, the c clip does not spin against the side gear but there are some pretty heavy forces trying to pull the axle out of the gear. The wear you have is more from lateral forces pounding the clip than any rotation.

The lower part of the splines are shaped differently making me think one was replaced.

Bearing wear looks OK, but I'd replace them and _NOT_use China bearings.
Thanks for the comments.
I had not checked the C-clip for hardness. However, the replacement I bought is a genuine GM one and the one on the opposite side has a shiny wear areas but is not grooved at all.

All of the Bearings I bought are USA Made and the same Timken or Torrington Bearings that came off. I bought the on eBay.
Besides the Cost one of the eBay advantages when buying a bearing is you can often see if they are US Made or ask the Seller.

I wanted the exact same Bearings as I am hoping not to have to fuss with the Differential Carrier Shimming too much.

I sure did not want one of those Bearing Kits with unknown bearings.

I have reached an Impasse concerning the replacement Spider Gears.

I have tried 2 Sets and neither fit correctly.
The Seller of the Last set refunded all the Money and left Me with a free set that does not fit.

Today I went to what was supposed to be a local Speed Shop that sold Yukon Gear sets and the address turned out to be an Apartment House with no other businesses in it???
Likely that Person is only an internet seller.
I wanted to deal with someone over the Counter.

Since I need to get the Van running and moved I am going to install the New Bearings, shim it if needed and I am going to stuff the old Gear back in and deal with the issue at a later date.

That is not hard to do as it is easy to change the Gears on the Vehicle.
Anyway that will buy Me time to get some Gears.

The only other issue I found is that the Pinion Gear did not have even the minimum preload on it. I am going to fix that tomorrow.
Bought a used inch pound Torque Wrench as the inch pound to do the job that came Yesterday.
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  #44  
Old 10-26-2013, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
OK I took some pics of the Manual on how the Shim Tool is used.

The first pic shows a top view of the Tool being inserted at the left end of the Differential Carrier and in the Shim/Spacer Area. You stick it in there with no Shims/Spacers.

You adjust the tool to take up the space and pull it out and measure the thickness of the Tool and it go find some Shims/Spacers that fit that size.
Oh now it is much clearer!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #45  
Old 10-26-2013, 12:44 PM
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I forgot to mention. I also had what firs appeared to be a Pinion Seal leak.

The Seal actually rids on the shaft of the U-joint Yoke and the Seal wear area was not deep.

However, the U-joint Yoke is bored all the way through. after the Nut is removed and a Washer is removed you can see the splines on the Pinion Shaft and the Yoke Splines.

So apparently since then Pinion Gear did not have even the minimum preload on it the Washer was not pushed up against the spline area so there was no way it was sealing in that area.
Once the Oil seeped past the splines and washer it was flung to the side and is on the underside of the Car.

There was some sort of sealant on the Splines but it was all dried and crumbly and mostly gone.

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