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#1
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How close can I get to the wear bars?
The tred is almost down to the wear bars. I was wondering if there was a rule of thumb, or law, that says when to buy new tires. Is it okey to go to the wear bars, or even past, or is it time now.
Next question: anybody know how Michelen Rainforce do on a 190e?
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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others) 5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k ) 5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest) 0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it) |
#2
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I was taught that the minimum tread depth allowable in the state of California is 1/32 of in inch above the wear bar. This can be measured by the width of the side of a penny.
I believe your tires are completely worn out. FWIW, I have the Michelin MXV4's and I am 100% completely satisfied with their performance, handling, and ride characteristics.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#3
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I don't have a clue what local law dictates, but the tire manufacturer considers the tire worn out when the tread is at the same level as the wear bar.
Additionally, the last few 32nds of tread give more miles than the first few. This is also true for brake pads. This is because as the pad or tread gets thinner, heat is more easily dissipated. With all that said, the only way that I personally would replace a tire that was not yet worn to the wear bar, would be if I lived and drove in an extremely we climate. Good luck, |
#4
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I would let it go to the wear bar as long as it is ok in your climate. The wear bars are at about 2/32" and I believe that is the legal limit in most states.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#5
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Larry explains it
I've been staring at that last wiskers depth of tread left for quite a stretch of time. And I thought it was a variation of the "watched pot never boils" theory.
It's not scheduled to rain here for another three months or so, I guess I can get a little more money out of these tires. Next question: Should I have an alignment done when I get new tires? And would it be right away or let them wear in a little? |
#6
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So who's going to confess along with me for wearing the tires down to the steel belts?
![]() Ken300D |
#7
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Jim,
My theory about alignment is that if the tires are wearing evenly and there are no handling quirks, you don't need alignment. Ken, I will make that confession, but it is not intentional. Unless I'm in the spring time rainy season, if the wearbars are showing and the tires are wearing evenly, I'll run those darlin's just a little longer. I've let them get away from me and make it to the belts a few different times, but usually on one of the cars that I don't personally drive. I have a harder time keeping up with things on the cars that I don't drive. I also find it difficult to maintain them without them sitting still. Have a great day, |
#8
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Quote:
Been meaning to get new front tires, but that car is hardly worth it. Hence, the quest for a daily driver 300D or?? ![]() |
#9
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you probably can continue to use the tires until under the wear bars- - no problemo!- - if no road hazard punctures through the tire, ....if no failure results from sidewall fatigue, ...if no critial structural integrity is compromised, etc....I've seen folks roll into the local tire shop with no rubber on the tire edges and poly/nylon/steel belts separating....asking for a bottle of 'fix-a-flat' due to a small air leak
... seems natural that the risk of tire failure and decreased perf will rise w/ the frequency& duration of each use going forward in this case adequate tires is just another thing that adds to insure a trouble free motoring experience- - if the car is hardly used.....heck it can go years and years sitting on the wear bars w/ little downside risk tire these days may be had super super cheap for the off-brands (readily available in pop sizes)...so there's not really a reason live w/ the lack of perf and decreased safety and increase risk- imho I appreciate the benefits and insurance of driving (enthusiastically) w/ good tires (min 25% tread depth) even on my beaters...and have been lucky to have experienced one slow leak in the past 20 years of driving (pesky nail- easily patched not plugged)- - and never experienced a blow out or other tire related failure. hope this helps -fad Last edited by -fad; 06-04-2002 at 06:12 PM. |
#10
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michelin tires
the most tire acciendents happen on the last 2/32 of tread, therefore they should be replaced for safety reasons, at least thats what my dad professes to me. =)
I like the rainforce tires. And I have MXV4 plus on two of my cars, and I like them. My dad got Pilot XGT H4s for his Fairlane and he likes them. They ride really good. I think that when you hit the treadwear bars, you should get new tires. California law would say that you have to get new ones at the treat wear bars. Austin |
#11
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I have yet to go beyond the wear bars, but with Michelin MXV4s being over $100 a piece, if they are in sound condition, and evenly worn, I might as well get my money's worth.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#12
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Quote:
Just food for thought considering that the 4 palmed sized bits of rubber play a somewhat important role in not only the operation of, but the SAFE operation of any motor vehicle.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY! '93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights '87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes '70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights |
#13
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It is difficult or impossible to argue with the fact that shallow tread depth decreases wet weather traction. If a person is in a rainy climate, tread depth should definitely be taken into consideration.
The other claim of a thin tire blowing out doesn't wash with me, however. Almost all blowouts are caused by one thing, insufficient pressure which bulids heat. Assuming that the thin tire is not showing cord or belt anywhere, and is kept properly inflated, it is probably LESS likely to blow out than a new tire. This is because a thin tire can more easily dissipate heat. I am not being a proponent of running thin tires, although I do it in Texas in the dry season. I am just being correct about the reasons for a thin tire being unsafe under certain conditions. Have a great day, |
#14
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I would not run thin tires if it was particularly rainy. Also, I check tire pressure weekly, and as Larry said, underinflation is the cause of blowouts. I would never drive on a tire that I believed would honestly increase my chances of an accident. But driving on a properly inflated, evenly worn tire with only a little tread left in dry weather does not pose a risk.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#15
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assuming that you've reached the treadwear indicators via normal road use (i.e., as against autocross use, for example), then it is safe to assume that the tire is old.
as the tire ages (and goes through many heating-cooling cycles), the rubber becomes harder and less compliant, and therefore less grippy. this is the reason Bridgestone has a dual-compound rubber on their recent tires - as you wear down the tire, you expose the softer rubber, maintaining your grip throughout the life of the tread. it might be a case of penny-wise pound-foolishness, this ... |
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