Flex disk replacement W107 DIY??
 

Has anyone seen a DIY anywhere on flex disk replacement? Specfically I have a 1982 380SL which needs new flex disks.

Most of the postings on this forum end with "took it to an indie" - which I might do - but am interested in how complex the job is. I have stands and a trolley jack but no lift.

Thanks

I did it over a pit and it took a solid day. Much harder than a sedan because you really have to monkey around with the driveshaft to get it out so that you can get to the center support. Buy German parts so you don't have to do this ever again...

How to do it. Remove exhaust system. Remove transmission support. Unbolt disks. Unbolt center support. Remove as unit. ( IIRC I had to jack up the engine to get the DS out)

Yuk, this sounds a lot nastier than on my 300SD, for example.

I also am considering a transmission swop as I have a leaking tranny front seal and a slipping clutch pack. Sounds like it would make a lot of sense to do both jobs at the same time.... and I would probably have an indie do it given the complexity of the job.

RL

Yes, much harder than on a 300SD, but the same basic drill. Ten pounds of s**t in a five pound bag. IIRC there a long plate welded in the tunnel on the R107 whereas on the sedans it's basically open.

Of course....if it's just the flex discs, then the prop shaft is telescopic.

No need for complete removal.

BUT.....if you are replacing the flex discs, then I would do the hanger bearing at the same time.


FLEX DISC INFO - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Nobby - these are great posts in Benzwolrd, thank you

No problem.

I like this forum but benzworld is a little more active.

this is not easy and requires a pit or lift, also some exactness so as not to disturb balance, the carrier bearing R/R is a good idea.
Not for the faint of heart but not many things on the SL's are :)
I think my carrier bearing could be going south on mine, but I will not attemp the R/R until I can schedule a lift to use.

I have a pair of used but like new flex disks from a 560SL on my ebay sight.

Good advice, but limiting.

I don't have a pit, lift or helper. But I managed to re and re the manual trani which necessitated the removal of the propshaft, exhaust.....among a host of other things.
I had my SL 20 inches up on sturdy jackstands for 2 months. A lift or pit would have been nice but 95% of us don't have access to that..

the entire program of work on the 380SL
 

I think I have found an indie who is willing to work with me on this. He seems to be of the right mindset as he has an immaculate Triumph TR6 and a 1960's Land Rover.

Here's the entire program of work:

- badly leaking transmission front seal
- suspected oil leak in engine rear main seal
- diff oil seal leak
- beginnings of cracks in flex disk
- time to replace all flexible brake hoses
- front control arm bushings beginning to age
- do the transmission mount when we're in there
- replace that bearing thingy on the prop shaft while we're in there

It seems to me that I need access to the facilities of an equipped garage and skills beyond mine to do this program of work. The engine still runs fine!;)

Question - while we're in there with the tranny pulled, is there anything else we should look at? The car has 115,000 miles on it (US vehicle imported to Canada).

Some days I want to throw this one away and buy a different 380SL, but I could have exactly the same sort of issues with a new one. Comments and thoughts on where I am headed are welcome as this will be an expensive set of repairs. These little buggers are much more complex than my 300SD but the wife loves the car :rolleyes:

As for the transmission, you may find that it's the front pump seal that is leaking not the torque converter seal. I would change that, or at least have one ready. Could do the output shaft since you seem to be trying to fix all the seals. All the servos have seals as well, but if they don't leak now, I guess they will be good.

Seems to me if you are doing control arm bushings you are opening up the whole front end rebuild can of worms...ball joints? subframe bushings? Motor mounts?.....

I don't know if other problems with your 380 have been addressed. As it is a U.S. model I have to ask if the timing chain and gears have been replaced or serviced recently.

Front sub frame bushings all done and ball joints in good shape on the front end. Unfortunately we did not do the control arm busings at the same time.

The power plant is in great shape and was upgraded about 10K miles ago to a twin chain etc. It was a single with 100K miles on it when I bought the car - living dangerously.

Then all is well on the engine.
Nobby has a great post about welding the sub frame reinforcement and replacing the bushings.