Been a LONG time since I was on here.

I have a 1976 240D that was my daily driver for a while, about 10 years ago.

Ran good but got wet inside in the rainy winter and had too much black smoke, and then I needed an AWD rig so I parked it and it's been sitting around for years now.

Every now and then I throw the jumper cables on it and it starts up easily, and I drive it around the property a bit and then park it again.

Now I want it running and road worthy again. Gonna revive my old diesel Dodge truck, too, but that's another conversation for another forum... lol

-I assume the black smoke is injectors needing rebuilt. Is there anyone on the forum who does that, or should I just get some rebuilt Bosch ones from Pelican?

-The "MOISTURE" inside... ugh..

I talked to my body shop guy about replacing the rear window seal and he said he would not work on an old mercedes like mine due to the risk of finding a lot more rust than he anticipated when pulling the glass out. He said he would help me replace the rubber if I pulled the glass myself and the rust wasn't bad

This isn't a very rusty car overall, but it does have a little spot at the bottom of the driver's door and a small rust hole in the rear pillar next to the rear glass.

Are the window seals from Pelican good, and if I find a lot of rust when I pull that glass is that something that can be fixed or would I just be SOL?

Thanks!

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1976 Mercedes 240D, unknown mileage
1992 Dodge/Cummins 4WD, 284k

Forum member greazzer for injectors, get yours rebuilt and dialed in. Check timing stretch, adjust the pump timing and valve clearance.

Windows...the more time you put into cutting the old gasket out vs pulling it out the less chance of breaking the glass.

Do a thorough rust inspection before investing a lot of time and $$$.

Change the oil and filter using a C rated diesel oil such as Rotella non-synthetic.

Keep us posted.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I recently rebuilt the injectors on my 1981 240D. I still have everything needed to do the job, and I am located in Eugene, OR. I would be happy to help you out with your injectors if you are interested.
PM me if so.

I have also just replaced the rear window seal on my 240D. I bought the Genuine Mercedes seal sold by Pelican. I would always recommend buying Genuine parts whenever you can. Without knowing your skill level, I would say the job is not incredibly difficult.
I treated the minimal rust that was under my seal with Rust Encapsulator.

I need to do the front windshield gasket, as well. URO is the only manufacturer I have been able to find for this seal. Hoping the quality of this seal is better than every other part URO makes...

Sounds like the first step is to get it moved under cover and pull the rear glass and make sure it's fixable before I go crazy with new battery and injector rebuilds and all that.

I just looked at Pelican and I couldn't find any gasket for the rear window, MBZ or otherwise. Just the front and door glass seals.

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1976 Mercedes 240D, unknown mileage
1992 Dodge/Cummins 4WD, 284k

Survey the entire car before making repairs so you know what you have.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1236700239.htm?pn=123-670-02-39-MBZ&SVSVSI=2297&DID=984

That one says it's a windshield seal and my most urgent leaking issue is the rear window.

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1976 Mercedes 240D, unknown mileage
1992 Dodge/Cummins 4WD, 284k

If you do find a seal, I recommend a youtube video. A couple of years ago I watched it (is for windshield replacement but probably applies to rear also) and found one important hint - use a string along the seal which then pulls up the lip of the new rubber seal over the edge of the glass. Would never have thought of that.

No idea the URL but maybe you can find it. Good luck.

Used a parachute type cord and wrapped it in the body side of the gasket twice it case the cord got cut. Had helper push glass inward whilst pulling the cord, worked like a charm.

DON'T bend the moulding, cut it completely out vs pulling it out.

The gasket goes on the glass, the moulding goes in the gasket, the cord goes in the body groove of the gasket and then we lubed the gasket with soapy water.

Keep the glass UBER centered during the install. If it gets off center stop and fix it.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

According to the EPC, 1236700239 is the correct part number for the REAR windshield.
The FRONT windshield part number is 1236700139.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Type this URO part number 1156780820 into to google to be taken to a European parts site. Unfortunately URO seems to be the only supplier. Not available on Pelican. Also note that if you have a pool of water in the front or even rear foot wells, it could be the front windshield seal leaking. The rust you mention at the rear pillar makes me wonder if your car has a sunroof with a plugged rear drain hose.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

It is for the rear window. It is a Genuine Mercedes seal for the rear window which I have purchased and installed.
For the love of gawd....

There's some confusion here. '76 was the last year for W115. A W123 windshield gasket is not going to work for a W115, front or rear. M-B refers to both front and rear as "windshield".

Woodrat, call the M-B Classic Center and see what they can tell you. If anyone can get the gasket you need it is them.

https://www.mbusa.com/en/classic-center

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- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

This one? It's for W116 but much of it applies to W115.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4hAT0aSIyM&themeRefresh=1

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- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

Sorry, I was just looking at the link and that's what it said.

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1976 Mercedes 240D, unknown mileage
1992 Dodge/Cummins 4WD, 284k