The best performing and efficient solution is removal of the blade and blocking of the EGR valve. There is nothing to gain from repairing the flap function unless you need to visually comply with an emissions inspection.

" You don't understand what you're talking about. Thats the only problem here. .

That's amusing ~ you repeat what I said then say I don't understand .

Maybe the engineers who designed this system or the folks who trained me to be a licensed smog mechanic don't know as much as you either ? .

The mind boggles .

I bet you're one of those who claims wheel bearings can only be adjusted with a dial gauge .

Keep on, others are finding all this very amusing .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I just yanked my stupid EGR. I love removing stuff, so thank you all.

How do y'all deal with the thermo vacuum valve by the based of the valve cover? It's just sitting there, big blue and and bare. I want to remove mine and replace it with a simple bolt.

Also, I want to remove the butterfly and linkage. I'd like to remove the whole harness at the top of my valve cover but I think it's partially necessary for my auto trans?

Just out of curiosity, as I'm thinking of removing mine, what did you put in place of the EGR valve and how did you deal with the hole in the exhaust manifold?

Rollguy here sells a block-off kit. I paid <$20 and used on both my 300D. For the exhaust port, it is just a steel washer, rounded off at the ends as I recall. It was a little fussy tightening the factory clamp on it, while keeping it from skewing sideways, but got it done and no leaks. You will find loosening the alternator much easier. Even easier if you re-route the H.P. AC tubing which runs past it. I don't know why M-B chose to run it up the R side of the engine, other than to simplify factory assembly.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Thanks Bill. I was kinda curious how "Penguin" did his as he simply said, "yanked my stupid EGR"...lol Thought maybe he did something different as he made no mention of block off, or anything else. I am aware of Rich's kit. Looks like the way to go. However, I totally agree with your comment about the "fussy factory clamp". I tried to make a cover for the exhaust hole and it didn't go too well. As you stated, it is difficult to hold in place, to place exactly where it needs to be and to make sure it's not gonna leak. Honestly, I don't think the factory EGR clamp is "right" for that job. The factory "pipe" is very thin and the clamp is designed for that gauge metal. Also, the factory pipe end is shaped more like a "cap" than a flat piece of metal. Maybe hammer the edge on an anvil, keeping the necessary curvature and get it to thin out on the outer circumference, thereby fitting the clamp a little better?

Haha sorry for the misleading commentary.

Currently yanked: switchover valve, vacuum wires to/from thermo valve and EGR.

To-be-yanked and replaced with a blocks: EGR and thermo valve

LOL, "licensed smog mechanic"
Yeah, I'm ASE X1 certified too. In addition to A, H, T, "triple master" with L1 and L2.


But yeah, I don't know what I'm talking about.



I bet you're one of those that thinks "training" makes you an expert.


Yes, your spectacle of self-deprecation is very interesting to watch.

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FWIW...I was never very impressed because someone had a patch on their shirt that read "ASE Certified". But, hey, that's just me. Suffice it to say, the people I've known and respected over the years, in ALL fields of automotive mechanics, didn't have 'em.

Because most places have little use for them since the general public doesn't know what they are. My career does financially incentivize having them. Other than that you're correct that they don't have much real world relevance to in-shop performance, thus why I'm shi tting on his bragging about having a "license" that most Meineke, Firestone, PepBoys and dozens of other lube shop techs can get in their spare time.

Oh, you haven't read the service manual? In the application of these cars, yes, a dial gauge is the only way to properly adjust, you can't just "feel" these, no matter how well you imagine your hands are calibrated.

You cannot really do the if it is not broken do not fix it.

That engine requires some maintenance to get the gut wrenching power to the road. Or at least as much of it as possible.

Clean air filter, periodic valve clearance check, plus the base fuel supply to the bottom of the injection pump has not dropped over the years. I own them and you want everything that can be made available power wise.

Seeing how the car does a zero to 60 test is a fast way to tell if you are lacking. Off hand I forget how many minutes it takes. The average expected is posted somewhere on site.

I really dislike the test myself. Between the time I start and finish it I have forgotten what I am doing it for. Best of all it is pretty cheap to do.

Some fuel filters may have been in place since before some members where even born. Oh yes,make sure with the go slow pedal pressed down fully the engine linkage is advancing the injection arm to the stop. All the above are fairly common issues with the 616 engine.

Again if you can pick up a few horsepower on these engines to me it is well worth the effort. You want to avoid a parking ticket while driving.

" Oh, you haven't read the service manual? In the application of these cars, yes, a dial gauge is the only way to properly adjust, you can't just "feel" these, no matter how well you imagine your hands are calibrated. "

Yep, I'm sure the original assembly line had dozens of guys, one for each side, with dial indicators making sure, right ? .

You have zero idea what you're talking about and are being rude to those who are trying to help you .

No knowledge will ever enter a closed mind .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You should schedule a tour of a car assembly plant sometime. In modern times, computers do the work because they are calibrated more precisely and consistently. But back in the 70's/80's, yes, they DID in fact, use dial gauges on the factory line with workers to assemble the wheel components.

Can you teach me how to calibrate my hands to feel 0.01-0.04mm of travel? What is the factory method for assembling these in the 1970's, can you cite a source please?

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