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#1
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sunroof pan
Does anyone have experience with the removal of the sunroof pan? I have to get at some rust. The headliner is down, cable out, bolts removed and it is coming loose. The cable tube I am getting ready to unhook after some PB blaster on the screws. After that and disconnection of the drain tubes the pan should drop down.
My question is, how can I remove the unit from the vehicle? it may come out the passenger front door with some maneuvering and possibly the removal of a seat. If that fails all I see is the windshield or back window as options to get it out. Both of those I would like to avoid. If it had to be done, the windshield would be the one since it has the seal that needs attention. Another option would be to try to fix the rust on it while it is in the car. I would like to get it out though, for obvious reasons.
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![]() Chris 84 280sl 82 300d euro |
#2
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I assume you are referring to your 300D. All seats would have to be removed, while it's a simple task, and then it's still questionable if the B pillar would present an obstacle. The main problem is the transmission tunnel, which obviously cannot be removed - it doesn't allow for the width of the frame. Windshield removal would be the best option.
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#3
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Apparently it has to come forward almost two feet in order to clear the sunroof cable guide tube. That requires a windshield removal from the looks of it. Damaging the tube would be no good. Off to get some hardware for cleaning it up inside the car. Its not the best place to do the work but this began as a simple front seal replacement. Funds are limited, and the garage is reserved for the r107. The minor rust on the roof should be easily removed. The pan has the lip for the front seal but is rusted around that area severely and some filler may be the only option at the moment. That should help separate the rot from the roof, which I really don't want to get worse.
At the moment the pan is hanging by rope from the roof. Hopefully, there will be enough metal there to work with.
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![]() Chris 84 280sl 82 300d euro |
#4
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Quote:
Brought it home in the trunk and is now stored in the garage. First you must detach the drive cable control (Job 77-150) while the sunroof is in place. In your case, you want to partly remove it, so it is not in the way. IIRC (it has been a while), you then can detach, lower, pivot and remove the sunroof assembly via the right rear door.
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 Last edited by Alec300SD; 01-03-2021 at 11:45 AM. Reason: typo |
#5
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Looks like a different sunroof pan will be the only true solution. I might try rust converter paint, and button it up as best as can be, as is. Then it will just be sealed up until I find a new sunroof setup. Does anyone know if other chassis sunroof pans will fit.
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![]() Chris 84 280sl 82 300d euro |
#6
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It looks like the metal could possibly be replaced. It is hard to tell if it is welded or not. There is definitely some sealer or glue used in the construction of the front seal lip. It looks like it may be welded as well. Maybe it's called a pinch weld. I dont know. Thinking again, maybe beyond repair at this point.
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![]() Chris 84 280sl 82 300d euro Last edited by C.Doner; 01-03-2021 at 01:40 PM. |
#7
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New Question. The EPC has the sunroof frame listed for the W123TD as one part number different than the W123 D. I am wondering if the wagon frame will go into the sedan. Does anyone know? I can get either, but at this point would like the manual sunroof setup. Im already in there, so mays well convert if I can find a good unit. Also does anyone have a w123 sedan parts car with a manual sunroof setup available in Northern, California?
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![]() Chris 84 280sl 82 300d euro |
#8
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If you want the manual variant, then get the frame for the TD - it will fit your car. The TD only came with manual set ups as there was no place to put the cable motor. You will need a few different parts for the sunroof panel, but it will be well worth it. And no more sticking cable problems. Note: the rear panel seal can be of any manufacturer, but the front seal must be MBZ (it's not expensive). Anything else won't go on properly. I may have a couple of manual parts. Once you get started, reach out and I'll check.
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