MudSlideSlim will need to clarify if the head was even removed or just the valve cover was taken off. I dont know the extent of the investigation that was undertaken.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Low fuel pressure bank one ... either the in tank lift pump is dead or the fuel tank is empty or possibly the high pressure pump had given up, basically the system detected no fuel pressure in bank one so its shut itself down.
The egr code may have just come along for the ride so the fuel pressure issue needs sorting and engine can be started to see if it still gets flagged.

Used Mobil1 ESP 0W-30 (229.51 and 229.52 MB-Approval) within the last 2k miles, so I would be surprised if it's related to that, but I guess you never know.

It is paid for. What would be a better engine to throw in it?

What would be more important, would be what oil was used throughout the engine's life. Sludge formation develops over time. The earlier MB approved oils were not suitable for these cars, but even some of the dealers continued to use them. The new oils only came out more recently - they are low ash but also designed for the high temperatures in the exhaust recirc system that can result in decomposition and sludge. (Or so I believe - its been a while since I researched that!)

If an engine flush was done it could be that sludge was dislodged and blocked oil passages? You won't easily find that out!. It does seem to have been a problem with that model and the technology as a whole.

I see you asked about a different engine. Not so easy with all the changes in the computer and wiring required. A CDI engine would be an improvement. Or even a gas engine. But none of that is easy!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I can say that it's gotten the same 229.51/2 oil for the 20,000 miles we've had it, but what was used prior to that is a mystery. I don't really intend to do an engine swap, but was curious as to what's out there.

Just spoke to the technician and he stated that he was not sure what the actual cause of the seizure was and that it would involve dropping the oil pan for approximately $1,500 to properly diagnose. He stated that the oil was barely on the dipstick (very low) and was dark with a grayish tint and gritty. This is strange to me as I check the oil twice on level ground right before having it towed to them and the oil was showing completely full. I am going to get a second opinion and they highly recommended taking it to the dealer as the tech used to work there, which makes me very reluctant to take it to the dealer. Any thoughts on this new information?

Drain the engine oil through a coffee filter before removing the pan. That should shed some light on the situation....

Just a thought, Slim.... You might want to rescue your car from this repair shop. You're already concerned about the knowledge level you've encountered there, and the tech's recommendation that you take it to the dealer sounds like either unwillingness or inability. The steep price tag to answer your question also provides incentive to go elsewhere. If you're able to work on it at home, having it towed there would buy you some time to perform some troubleshooting on your own. This would give you an improved knowledge base to deal from when speaking with other technicians. Plus, you can reach out to the experience and knowledge available on this forum without concern as to deadlines. At worst, you're out the cost of towing. At best, you just saved over a thousand dollars. Just a thought...

Dark oil with a grayish tint could be caused by either connecting rod, or main bearing material breaking down due to lack of oil pressure. As other posters suggested, if you can get the car home, you may be able to diagnose the problem yourself. Good luck!!!!

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96 E300d

Maybe the dealer would be a better choice now the tech doesn't work there

Have you talked to MBUSA customer service. They have been through this before. And they have trained reps that can at least give you good advice. I have done that in Canada and received a great deal of help from the MBCanada tech rep for our area. The whole engine does not likely need to be replaced. It does maybe have to be removed and sent to a rebuild shop. No matter what, it will be expensive. I would figure on $15-$20k. Maybe less for a used engine, but do you want that? Maybe your next step should be to trade for a Subaru or something reliable, under warranty and cheaper

I had something like this happen on a smaller scale to my much more simple '85 W123 diesel. An oil-change shop likely dropped a nut into my turbo intake. Engine was destroyed. I didn't even try accusing anyone. Just found a good used engine and had it rebuilt and installed by a good indy shop. Cost me $7000 back in 2001. Car was worth less than that before the incident! But I still have that car and drive it daily. But it is a car that was worth keeping.

Mercedes diesels ain't what they used to be

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I would qualify this in saying this would be the case so long as it is something that requires removing the engine. It's possible the timing chain broke without any substantial damage. If the engine does not need to be removed, it can likely be fixed without paying a fortune. Maybe a valve stuck or something like that. Who knows if you don't pull the head off? I think in this environment of hiring "parts changers" instead of "troubleshooters", there are likely a number of people who would pay the $15K+ or even junk the car when it could be fixed by a competent person. Make sure you are completely confident in the diagnosis before you make a final decision.

Dkr.

The kicker is - How much do you want to pay for a diagnosis just to find out that you still need to pay $15-20k?

I would involve MBUSA regardless. They may be able to help with the diagnosis.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

A 617 in a GL350 would be fun to look at

It's a fairly new Mercedes, not a Hyundai. I would think if you could afford to buy the vehicle, you could at least afford a proper diagnosis unless you just consider it to be a disposable piece of junk that gets tossed out when something goes boom. I would still pay a good indy to do it at their shop rate, not the dealer. Otherwise, someone else like rollguy is going to get a really good deal. I would also argue without the diagnosis, you don't really know if the replacement/repair cost is a fair price and you don't know what caused it. Perhaps if it is a design problem you might want to just junk the vehicle. Or if it was oil related or something like that, you would want to adjust your maintenance procedure. It would really suck to have it happen again after spending the $15K.

Dkr.