No sorry, I am not being very clear. My apologies. Both cars are 115 and I was just trying to find out a parts car still had a good motor. My car has a cooked front two cylinders and big blow by. The parts car has the motor I need and of same vintage less air conditioning. The parts car body is quite rusty but otherwise good less tranny. I have good tranny but bad motor. So for budget purposes I wish to transplant motors. So need some heads up advice with this process. Thank you for you help so far. This list is very helpful.

David

Since both cars are 115 with 240 engines, then the swap should be drop-in. There may be some minor things needing to be swapped (like mounting studs for accessories - the AC you mentioned for example) - carefully look at the engines comparing to find differences. The block and head should be the same - you just do not want to be in the middle of say installing the engine to find something needing swapping that would be easier to do with the engine out. When I swapped a '77 Euro 300D engine into my '77 US 300D I had some mounting studs in the block I had to swap and then the engine mounts used different size Allen-head bolts to connect the mount on the engine to the rubber engine mount bolted to the body (Euro were 8mm dia. and US were 10mm dia. Allen-head bolts), I found this difference before installing the engine - whew, as I would be cussing seriously trying to thread a 10mm bolt into a 8mm hole (I used the US version wwith 10mm bolts). Otherwise the mounts connected to the engine were exactly the same.

Good Luck!
Tom

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Thanks again. I was wondering though about the tranny. Is it attached before putting back in car? Should the motor and tranny still attached come out of my car and then do the tranny switch and clutch install before putting the good motor in?

David

M-B recommends R&R'ing the engine and trans as a unit. Having R&R'd my engine I found this was the easiest way because it is a lot easier to work on the engine/clutch/trans outside of the body rather than installed. Others will disagree. If you have a lift then doing these jobs separately can be done, if not, then you have to crawl/roll around on the ground to assemble the engine, clutch, trans together with the lack of clearance because the car is elevated on jack stands and it is harder to assemble components and then properly tighten/torque fasteners.

My $0.02 Worth!
Tom

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America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
Shop Foreman;
Technical Advisor to Am. Honda;
Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex.

If you take the engine out alone,,, then on many of these cars you will need to support the front of the transmission ... so when you start to put it back together on the ground you have that in your way... a real bummer... Greg

Greg,
Not really. Although I have a nice German lift, I do a portion of the work on the ground. If you want to leave the tranny in the car, you slip a floor jack with a 2x4 on it for automatic trassmissions under the trans. Jack it up to support the trans and pull the engine. If the engine is going to be out for awhile wire the trans to the accelerator linkage. When you are ready to reinstall slip the floor jack back under, jacj it up until it carries the weight and snip the bailing wire. Drop the engine in and adjust the floor jack height to match the mating angles of the two units. It has worked well for me to lessen the pain of getting the two units to match up.

Good luck,
Peter

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One of your engines has series GP and the other has parallel GP. The easiest way to correct the problem is to change the GP to match the car wires if the GP threads fit the head. If they don't fit you will have to change the glow plug wiring in the car to match the GP on the replacement engine which is more difficult.

BTW, to be technically correct, your car has a good transmission and a bad ENGINE not a bad motor.

P E H

P.E.H.,

As I understand it both cars are 115 chassis, so the glow plugs should all be series. To the best of my knowledge Mb didn't start using parallel circuits until 1980. Actually it is a motor. He has an OM616 240D, with OM standing for OIL MOTOR.

Peter

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Peter,

Parallel GP were used in the '78 300SD and possibly earlier, I knoe, I have one. The way he described thh GP in the different engines it sounded like there are series in one and parallel in the other.

Maybe in German it is a motor but in the US a chemical energy to heat energy to mechanical energy converter is an engine: I.E. steam engine, jet engine, gasoline engine, ETC. I know, look it up in the Dictionary, but Mr. Webster is wrong. What would you expect from a liberal arts major: He says a motor is the same thing as an engine. So if this it true then I have a starter engine, a fan blower engine and engines in my doors to make the windows go up and down. Wouldn't I sound stupid if I called my starter motor a starter engine. Well to me to call a Diesel engine a Diesel motor sounds just as stupid.

P E H

P.E.H.

You are absolutely correct about the 78 turbo. I forgot that one. The 123 chassis did not change until 1980, and the 115 chassis was definitely series. As a professional MB mechanic for over a quarter century I've worked on and owned enough of them to hopefully have learned something by now. Now, getting back to the motor thing, I really got a chuckle out of TXBILL trying to warn me about you. Diesel is far enough down the cracking process to be called an oil. You also said that the Germans may call it a motor, but it is an engine. Funny thing about that is that I seem to recall that a couple of Germans named Daimler and Benz invented the thing. It seems to me they should be able to call it anything they want. Also diesel doesn't explode in the combustion chamber like its cousin gasoline which is hoigher up in the cracking process. When diesel is injected after the air molecules are around 900* F, it burns like oil. At any rate this all in fun, and I'm sure I'll get an answer back.

Peter

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Peter,

If Diesel fuel doesn't explode in the combustion chamber like gasoline does, why is it thet Diesel ENGINES knock and clank while gasoline ENGINES are usually quiet except when they "Diesel" because of gasoline that does not have high enough octane rating to prevent preignition.

I think you find that a flame front from a single source such as a spark is a much smoother burn than diesel fuel spontaneously cumbusting. And that is why a gasoline engine is usually quiter and smoother than a Diesel engine.

Diamler and Benz didn't invent the gasoline or Diesel engine. That was done by Messers Otto and Diesel. Diamler and Benz took the engines invented by others and incorporated them into an automobile. Therefore, Otto and Diesel may call their inventions as they chose and they called them ENGINES or what translates into engines in English.

A Diesel locomotive is propelled by traction motors (not engines)that are supplied electrical energy by a generator driven by a Diesel engine. A motor does not burn a fuel, it convertes an electrical, hydraulic or gas pressure potential energy into mechanical energy. Actually the Diesel locomotive is Diesel powered with an electric transmission. The older locomotives had steam engines, did you ever hear of a steam motor?


I think you are a little high on the air temp necessary to ignite Diesel fuel. It is probably closer to 600 degrees F. You get about 2 degrees F temperature rise per 1 PSI of compression so at atmospheric pressure of about 15 PSI X 20 to 1 compression ratio X 2 degrees F per PSI = 600 degrees F assuming little leakage. This is with a cold engine and when the engine is hot, the temperature of the air in the combustion is much higher, maybe 800+ degrees F (600 degrees rise plus 200+ degrees combustion chamber temperature).

P E H

P.E.H.

I am well aware that the trucks on a diesel locomotive are driven by electric motors which are turned by diesel motors. You are also probably correct in your calculations about the 600 degrees at cranking speed which is why glow plugs are required to start a Mercedes Benz oil motor. I got my 900 degree figure from a US Navy diesel engine course book. I'm sure the figure came from some engineer working for the Navy.Do you suppose that poor old Rudolf Diesel committed suicide just to avoid being a part in a thread like this? I'm just kidding; I know he committed suicide because of bad investments he made as a result of his patents.

Peter

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Autozen, You support the front of the trans by using baling wire from it to the accelerator linkage ? Greg

Greg,

That is absolutely correct, and if the linkage isn't there on some model, I tie it to something else.

Peter

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The last I heard R. Diesel was missing from a ship but no one was sure if he jumped or was pushed off. He just sort of disappeared. I read one book where a Compression ignition engine was running in England before R. Diesel invented his. Did you know that Diesel's first engine was fueled by powdered coal and that it exploded. But that proved to Diesel that he could ignite fuel in an engine by compression of the air in the cylinder.

No, The traction motors are not turned by Diesel engines in locomotives. The motors are are driven by electricity that is created by generators that are turned by Diesel ENGINES.

P E H