I started using Opti-lube because the PO of my CDI had used it from Day 1. Ends up being pretty cheap...a $15 quart bottle goes 10,000 miles.

Not sure why there would be a dosing problem...just measure precisely...two oz. per 20 gal.

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Bosch has tested the new low sulfur fuels. Although there were lubricity issues when first introduced around 2006, top tier fuels presently meet lubricity requirements for Bosch Fuel pumps. Not sure if pre-2006 fuel pumps actually required substantially higher lubricity than today's pumps.

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-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991

I use DieselKleen, mainly for smoke. Does it add lubricity too?

My experience is that I don't "measure precisely" getting exactly 2oz. Two oz for example is a pretty small amount and it is easy to end up with 2.5 or 3 or 4 oz and the result is the nice cheap opti becomes more expensive. I suppose that I "could" carry a shot glass around but didn't. My other reason to go with 2-stroke is that it is easy to come by and doesn't require special effort other than going to WallyWorld which for me is easier that obtaining the Opti.

It apparently doesn't add much.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=lubricity+study&t=ffab&ia=web

Note that the dosage per oz in the above pdf can be adjusted to get comparable results and converted to dollars at today's prices.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

How 'bout this for data points.

Bio diesel apparently has zero sulfur.

Some run all sorts of used motor oil / other waste oils that have to be worse than LS diesel in terms of acid content / grit and claim no ill effects.

Some run Jet-A, I wonder what sulfur content that has?

It works fine to do so. Can have some stabilizing properties too.

I have noticed when I tried to run a little in my DI BMW 135i, that the tailpipe was a lot sootier when using it (and my treat rate was pretty small). Stop the 2-stroke oil and the soot went away. Our diesels can be pretty sooty, not sure you want more...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

I wonder if the OM606 needs extra lubrication. My son drives our 98 so I don't put the Opti-lube in it.

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Dont use more than 100(!) gallons of it a year, , , , a quart lasts me 2+ years.

Oh, the irony. . . ???

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"I applaud your elaborate system of denial"

Originally Posted by cornemuse
"I applaud your elaborate system of denial"



. . That you feel ATF is a good fuel additive.

Having burnt some ATF I have to agree. NASTY stuff. I certainly wouldn't want to be following someone burning it in their car.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

I'm sorry I left out one important detail the Napa guy told me. "be sure to use TC-W3 two cycle oil" it is ashless and will not create soot!

DieselKleen is good for reducing smoke because it is a cetane booster. As you may know, the cetane booster helps shorten the delay of combustion inside the cylinder, which leads to less smoke among other things as well.

DieselKleen adds a small amount of lubricity, but it is mainly a cetane booster and detergent. There are plenty of lubricant additives out there to use, but the best lubricant is biodiesel if you have it in your area.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Just chiming in with current best practice, which is to prime fuel filters via the hand primer pump, and NOT prefill or add anything to fuel filters. Anything added straight from a fuel can or bottle is not filtered, and can allow contaminants to reach the IP and injectors. Any additives should go in the tank, not in the fuel filter, so that it gets filtered.

Before everyone jumps on me, I'm aware that this isn't a huge concern for most of these older diesels with 10 micron nominal filters, they're just not that picky. Newer applications requiring finer filtration should definitely use the current procedures, and it certainly won't hurt anything on the older engines.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I'm sure Lucas makes some 'magic pill' for diesels too. They said their Upper Cylinder Lubricant is what they recommend.

No prefill is standard practice for CAT diesels for the reason you mention.