1956 Dodge Truck Build with OM617 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

charliebob · #16 12-12-2014, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

What you hiding in the back for a rear end? I've been dreaming about putting in a IRS in mine. How's that? ...wanting to modify it before I get it done!

It is a Jag-u-war, with custom fab and air bag overload springs added. I'll post some "pitchers" tomorrow. The Jag suspensions have fallen out of favor with most hot rodders, but that is good because they are now fairly inexpensive and are plenty strong enough for our street trucks. The car they came came out of weighs 500-1000 lbs more than our trucks.

Can't wait to see your 39 Studebaker finished.

charliebob · #17 12-12-2014, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

I like it but also would like a Cummins. They just belong in a truck. x3 on cleaning the engine. I would also take it down to the long block and install new gaskets and seals every where I could while it is out.

For just a shop truck/cruiser, I prefer the Benz. OM606 turbo would be ideal.

The Cummins 4bt is pricey, weighs at least 250 lbs more than the Benz, and will shake all of the fillings out of your teeth! I would love a 6bt, but really don't need a tow rig or the bad handling that comes from all the weight on the front. But an old Dodge dually truck with a long wheelbase and 6bt sure would be a cool tow rig.

This particular OM617 only has 137k miles (the car rusted away), doesn't leak and I have a stack of records about 2" thick showing excellent maintenance since new. For that reason, I don't want to take it down until necessary. But I will clean it up some

Dan Stokes · #18 12-12-2014, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

I like it but also would like a Cummins. They just belong in a truck. x3 on cleaning the engine. I would also take it down to the long block and install new gaskets and seals every where I could while it is out.

I sort of agree with Junkman - except the rear main seal. Unless it's leaking a LOT I'd leave it alone. I did mine and they are a stinker to do.

My OM617 has some sort of super gunk that was a PITA to get off. I tried pretty much everything and finally sent the cam cover and upper and lower oil pan off to the machine shop to be scrubbed up in their cabinet, which worked pretty well. I subsequently had these components powder coated and they look great. Might want to take a look at my build thread to see what I've done.

Dan

Junkman · #19 12-12-2014, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliebob

This particular OM617 only has 137k miles (the car rusted away), doesn't leak and I have a stack of records about 2" thick showing excellent maintenance since new. For that reason, I don't want to take it down until necessary. But I will clean it up some

I would still pull the manifolds off, take care of the turbo drain tube seals, do the oil filter housing gasket(s), perhaps new seals in the turbo. Make sure the oil pan isn't going to leak. Basically everything except where you have to disturb the head. A gasket set isn't expensive and a leak free (old) engine is a joy.

You'll want to keep that truck if only to give it to your kids and 137,000 isn't much from 200,000. Besides, the engine looks nasty compared to that frame. I am by no means one to detail an engine bay but while you have it in your hand....

rasper · #20 12-12-2014, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Do you mean the push-button shifter like in my 64 Valiant?

He does not mean that. The 1955 and probably the 1956 Chrysler automatics had a lever mounted in the dash. 1957 had the push buttons. I think that was the first year.

Richard

charliebob · #21 12-12-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

I would still pull the manifolds off, take care of the turbo drain tube seals, do the oil filter housing gasket(s), perhaps new seals in the turbo. Make sure the oil pan isn't going to leak. Basically everything except where you have to disturb the head. A gasket set isn't expensive and a leak free (old) engine is a joy.

You'll want to keep that truck if only to give it to your kids and 137,000 isn't much from 200,000. Besides, the engine looks nasty compared to that frame. I am by no means one to detail an engine bay but while you have it in your hand....

"Junkman" wants a shiny engine? Just kidding!! :-)

Appreciate the suggestions.

charliebob · #22 12-12-2014, 08:46 PM

[QUOTE=rasper;3418776]He does not mean that. The 1955 and probably the 1956 Chrysler automatics had a lever mounted in the dash. 1957 had the push buttons. I think that was the first year.

I was thinking about something like the dash shifter in the pic below, which is a mid-60s truck, rather than the "typewriter" shifter, although that might also work.

The Benz shifter adapted to a cable should work.

OM617YOTA · #23 12-12-2014, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliebob

The Cummins 4bt is pricey, weighs at least 250 lbs more than the Benz, and will shake all of the fillings out of your teeth!

I can speak from experience that a 617 mounted with heavy V8 mounts instead of the soft factory mounts and the shock absorber will shake PLENTY.

t walgamuth · #24 12-12-2014, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliebob

It is a Jag-u-war, with custom fab and air bag overload springs added. I'll post some "pitchers" tomorrow. The Jag suspensions have fallen out of favor with most hot rodders, but that is good because they are now fairly inexpensive and are plenty strong enough for our street trucks. The car they came came out of weighs 500-1000 lbs more than our trucks.

Can't wait to see your 39 Studebaker finished.

You and me both brother!

vstech · #25 12-12-2014, 11:16 PM

[QUOTE=charliebob;3418786]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rasper

He does not mean that. The 1955 and probably the 1956 Chrysler automatics had a lever mounted in the dash. 1957 had the push buttons. I think that was the first year.

I was thinking about something like the dash shifter in the pic below, which is a mid-60s truck, rather than the "typewriter" shifter, although that might also work.

The Benz shifter adapted to a cable should work.

Heh, that looks just like the dash on my 69 dodge parts truck...

interzonearts · #26 12-13-2014, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

I can speak from experience that a 617 mounted with heavy V8 mounts instead of the soft factory mounts and the shock absorber will shake PLENTY.

5 cyl diesel engine is a better design and it'll shake less then a 4cyl, 4bt especially. I had a 4cyl 2.5 land rover diesel in place before the swap and at idle it'd just rattle every possible element that had any potential for rattling.
The 617 feels luxurious in comparison.

Stretch · #27 12-13-2014, 02:32 AM

Nice project - you're living the dream

Mxfrank · #28 12-13-2014, 08:44 AM

Is it an optical illusion, or is the driveshaft not straight? Mercedes shafts are designed for the differential to be exactly in line with the engine, they won't tolerate angles.

charliebob · #29 12-13-2014, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

Is it an optical illusion, or is the driveshaft not straight? Mercedes shafts are designed for the differential to be exactly in line with the engine, they won't tolerate angles.

The front half of the driveshaft, which is "unmolested" Mercedes, is perfectly aligned with the crankshaft and transmission. The carrier bearing in the middle keeps the front shaft in alignment. The back half of the driveshaft is custom, with u-joints on both end. The slight angle of the back driveshaft is very small compared to most stock shafts. The angle is necessitated by the pinion in the Jag being offset, as are pinions in many diffs, solid axle and IRS.

It should not be a problem. If it is, I'll make a double driveshaft with u-joints on both.

Thanks for your concern. Sorry that the pixs did not show the front shaft.

vstech · #30 12-13-2014, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charliebob

The front half of the driveshaft, which is "unmolested" Mercedes, is perfectly aligned with the crankshaft and transmission. The carrier bearing in the middle keeps the front shaft in alignment. The back half of the driveshaft is custom, with u-joints on both end. The slight angle of the back driveshaft is very small compared to most stock shafts. The angle is necessitated by the pinion in the Jag being offset, as are pinions in many diffs, solid axle and IRS.

It should not be a problem. If it is, I'll make a double driveshaft with u-joints on both.

Thanks for your concern. Sorry that the pixs did not show the front shaft.

SLIGHT offsets with a driveshaft are a bad thing... the angle needs to be in spec for the ujoint config. what is most important is the relationship between the two ends. they need to be exact, and held in relationship through the travel of the moving end.
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