timing chain tensioner

[yuke]

So if I understand completely you have to drain coolant remove therm. housing cover and underneath you able to get at tensioner which you have to release tension on chain to put new one in. Question is seems to me only part of tensioner that would wear would be the spring itself which can be bought separately . So if you get new spring and gasket for tensioner should be good to go on new chain install. Do not think I want to get into replaceing upper tensioner rail sounds like to much trouble for the 617.5 motor on 85 300sd. I could get by with new chain,thermo housing gasket, and tensioner gasket and new spring for tensioner. I would hope that with the new chain would come a c-clip masterlink to hold chain together as rolling it in to take off and permenently crimp or peen when on.

[Lucas]

I would drop the housing and see how much coolant comes out. Haha.

This keeps coming up and no one has corrected me yet.

You adjust valve timing with woodruff keys on the timing chain gear. Once stretch has exceeded woodruff adjustment potential, you replace the chain.

What cause chain breakage is bad guides. The chain doesn't wear out and break.

So if your valve timing is ok, or still has room left to adjust with keys, no need. But replacing guides is important.

Idk about the 617, but on the 615 it wasn't too crazy to pull the pin holding the rail. A screw from the vacuum pump housing threads in, and I pride on the head with a chisel and a block of wood. Didn't read the FSM for this.

Edit:
I haven't put a tensioner back in but need to read up filling it with oil. Where did you find the spring? Dealer?

I noticed some chains come with master links, some don't. I also noticed you can buy a link separate. Depends how many mercedes you have, and if you will ever replace a chain twice.



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