82 240D Pulling Engine at PNP

[charmalu]

Looking on www.row52.com I was looking to see how many 240D`s that are with in driving distance. Driving distance depends on my mood at the moment, and have driven to Sacramento a few times and that is 153 miles. But I get to look up Sirnik84 and a few others afterwards for Burgers at In and Out. In-N-Out Burger

I notice only two 240`s close, one south (25miles) at Moss Landing and a 77. Then one in the San Jose north yard, a 77 also.
I finally go the SJ north yard, haven`t been to the yard for a while and just need a "Fix". Poke around, mostly newer MN in the 90`s range, one old 76 SL, then the 240D in the far back corner. been there for a few weeks so the inside is packed with junk from the yard workers (rats). Blue with blue interior.
Look at the engine....HMMM it was changed to a 80 or newer because of the Pencil GP`s, then notice the 3 legged GP Relay as used on the 80 models. Look at the L/R fender and they wrote in grease pencil (77 240D). On the Door Post the plate showed something like 8/80. First 80 240 I have seen in a long time.

I grab the 3 legged GP Relay, pricy damed thing at around $400 - $700 depending where you look. This same relay is the same one for the W116 SD. So $10 sounds a lot better.

I decide to grab the Vacuum Pump as it is the Diaphragm one and was cleaner that the rest of the engine, and just wanted a spare.

Remove the Radiator, shroud, fan etc... to give me some room. getting all the bolts out the lower right just before the very bottom one, is rounded out. I have one of those Craftsman Sockets that fit over a bolt with the spired inside to grip a bolt head. About 5 dries tapping it on, it grips and out comes the bolt. YEAH!!!

The very bottom one I can`t get out. I only had a 3/8 drive socket with the 5mm Bit attached, and with the ratchet it wont fit because the way the vac body sticks down. Even using a U-Joint still too tight. Didn`t have any other 5mm Allens. Damn.
OK so I leave it, and just maybe it will still be there. no luck when I come back but didn`t think it would anyway. so I helped some one else, and that warmed my heart. that was on Saturday.

Yesterday, Tuesday, I decide to go back. Got out of here later than I wanted, 10:15 and takes at least 45min or longer to get there depending on traffic. But first cranked up the Air Compressor and used the cutoff wheel and cut up a 5mm Allen into several short pieces to get to that last bolt.

Turning the engine over with the crank Bolt, (Saturday) it seemed to have pretty good compression. So the more I thought about it, I decided to pull the engine. (I need one more )
Pulled the VC to check the valves, Cam, Rockers etc... all the valves are tight. Notice there isn`t black oil and sludge, so they kept up on the oil changes...I guess. Pulled the Dip Stick and was 1/4' on the stick. wiped it off with my finger and looked fairly clean, as Diesels go.

So Iam thinking, tight valves, make it harder to start, and would idle like crap, sluggish acceleration and because its an auto trans. Trans could have been slipping or not shifting right, no reverse etc.... they went to AAmco and told $2200 for a re-build. That condemned the 240 plus the state offered them $1000 if they scrap it. OK, Iam sticking to that thinking.

I was amazed that just about every bolt came out really easy, not all that tight, Bell housing Starter, Exhaust, etc.....

Dropped the AC Compressor, didn`t have a wrench big enough to unscrew the metal pipe, so flatted the pipe with a Hammer against the Pwr Steering Pump and cut it off with my bolt Cutters. Removed the Steering pump and set to one side.
Needed something to attach to the Engine to pull it out. Seat belts work real well. Pulled the rear one`s all the way out, cut off with razor Blade knife. remove 17mm bolt on the floor. The "L" Bracket then bolts to the lifting ears on the back of the Engine.
Pulled out one front belt, cut it off, and bolted it`s bracket to the front mount. the 240 short Lug Bolts were on the floor, and found a Lug Nut and used it for the front mount. The rear belts have a smaller hole, so now Iam scrounging up and down the rows for 2 smaller bolts and nuts. You would think with all these different make of cars, there would be plenty of hardware. Lots of bolts, but no nuts, and if so, too small, or too large. Must have searched 3 rows to finally get a couple.

Take the wheel Barrow and tools back to the truck, then look for an "A" Frame. one was missing the Hook on the Chain Fall and one was missing the Chain Fall, only one good was 1/2 way across the yard. and pushing them, each wheel has a mind of it`s own LOL.
Get it hooked up to the belts and start lifting.

The Eng mount on the drivers side was totally collapsed, the rubber was pushed down in the hole, so couldn`t have got the 8MM bolt out from under the car if I wanted. The pass side was all mushy. so lifting, they should just rip off....right?

Start lifting, then notice the PWR Steering metal line from the Steering Box runs right over the Eng Mount Plate and that hung it up some. enough lifting and it should break free, then notice the car is coming up with the engine , look on the Pass side and notice the body is about 10" above the wheel stands. Then there is this CRASH BANG and it lets go and the body drops back down and the engine is free and swinging. Transmission drops to the ground because I removed the Cross Mount on Saturday.

Now there is no way I can push this "A" Frame with this engine swinging on the chain in the deep gravel they keep adding, and a slight up hill. Finally got a guy to help me get it to the concrete road, then I could man handle it to the office.

Finally about 5:45 Iam driving out the gate with my new prize.

So with Air Cleaner, manifolds, Starter, Water Pump, Thermostat Housing, Oil Cooler and Hoses, Eng mount Arms, IP, Oil Filter Housing, came to $351. OH, and got my Senior Discount too.

Is this a good Engine? I don`t know, could be a Boat Anchor far as I know. was kind of thinking of taking up fishing.


Charlie