I have parts on the way to fix a bad neutral safety switch. I also ordered the parts to fix the leaking turbo drain tube where it goes into the pan. This leak is one of those that comes and goes. It came back over the weekend and the back of my car is full of oil spots and was a qt. low after 200 miles. There are great instructions here on how to do it the way it's made to be done but that way looks like a royal PIA. So I found this thread...

oil return tube question

and I think it's the way I will do it. Will let everyone know how it works out. Parts will be here in the morning so I will take the car apart while I wait for them. If I can I will take pictures to post, I will be taking them as I take it apart to make sure I know how to put it back together.

Please post some pics if possible. I plan on doing the same job soon and it would be invaluable for us all. Thanks.
Bill Rokaitis 1985 300SD 152,000 miles

I finished the turbo drain seal today. I guess 2 hours is possible the second time around, the first time took me 6. I didn't get to many pictures cause I was covered in oil and didn't want to get it all over my camera. Here is how I had to do it.

Remove air filter housing
unbolt air filter housing bracket
unbolt oil feed to top of turbo
remove air filter bracket
remove back clamp on flex tube next to exaust flange
remove heat shield over starter
unbolt three exaust pipe bolts
push exaust pipe back
remove two bolts holding exaust flange to exaust manifold
Remove exaust flange from flex pipe
unbolt four bolts holding turbo to exaust manifold
Remove turbo by pulling away from manifold and lifting up
bottom section of pipe will stay in oil pan
dig out old seal with a screwdriver and sharp knife
pull bottom section out of oil pan

All goes back in reverse
The tricky part for me was how the seal and O ring fit into the oil pan. I pushed the new seal on the tube, then fit the O ring into the grove for it. Pushed the tube into the hole and you feel the O ring kind of pop into place. Then I pushed the new seal down till it was seated tight. Once it all went into place it feels real tight. When the turbo goes into place you feel the top tube pop into place when that O ring seats as well.

The attached picture is looking down at the hole the bottom tube goes into.
I didn't get around to the new neutral switch today. Will have to wait till the weekend.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Here is another shot of the engine compartment with everything out of the way

Attached Thumbnails

 

OK, I decided to bring back this dead thread...

I think I have convinced myself to remove the turbo in order to do my oil drain gasket, since the lower tube is all 100% from the last replacement in Aug., and I dont want to have to drop the oil pan, etc.

My question is, I still have nightmares of my attempts to get to the bolts holding on the lower oil line on the turbo. I know if I remove the turbo, I can ensure things are 100% clean and well sealed, so I wont have more leaks. What I worry about is getting to the bolts that hold the turbo to stuff, as discussed in this thread. How hard is it to do the following:

remove back clamp on flex tube next to exaust flange
remove heat shield over starter
unbolt three exaust pipe bolts
remove two bolts holding exaust flange to exaust manifold
Remove exaust flange from flex pipe
unbolt four bolts holding turbo to exaust manifold
Remove turbo by pulling away from manifold and lifting up

Are there any gasket parts, etc that I should get to replace whiethe turbo is off? Is there anything I should watch that I dont break (exhaustpipes, etc) because they tend to crumble, etc when messed with?

I was going to do a valve adjustment on Friday, but now Im thinking to do this... If I leave myself say, 7 hours, should I have enough time (It took me 8-9 hours to do it the 'drop the pan' method, although I managed to loose a bolt and have to go buy some parts).

Im worried but cant stand this oil leak...

Thanks,

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Also, what about the fact that most all the hardware that needs to be removed on the exhaust system, etc., looks completely rusted out, and will most likely be seized tight? What is the best method for getting that stuff apart without ruining it? penetrating oil then heat if necessary?
Thanks,

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

when I did this the exaust bolts "looked" to be rusted solid. However after a bit of oil they came off with no problem. Diesels don't run as hot on exaust temps as a gasser will. Not a hard job at all, just took some time. (4 hours or so) I got the gasket set from a local dealer for the tubes after seeing them when I took it apart. Ordered the O rings needed from this site.