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#1
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no 2-3 upshift and need car ASAP tks
i looked at lots of threads on this but nothing has worked yet.
leading up to this [FULL TIME] issue. when cold no 2-3 upshift, warm seemed to do ok. 2 weeks ago no engine shutdown 1 time only last week. on a recent long trip would shift 2-3 at 3500-4000 rpm now wont at all. test results / troubleshooting fluid level ok and recently replaced 19 hg at main vac tube 19 hg at shutoff valve removed vac line to trans removed bowden cable unplugged kick down switch history b2 piston and 3rd gear spring replaced along with oil and filter 6k miles ago 3-4 shift has always been very fast and very hard
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#2
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the very fast and hard 3-4 shift leads to bowden adjustment AND vacuum issues... bring up the "critical transmission vacuum" thread and get comfortable reading...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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#3
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This might sound a bit silly but does the oil smell smoky? (And you are 100% sure you've got the right fluid level aren't you?)
Other people have posted that cleaning out the governor has helped with a multitude of shift related problems after they've been checking vacuum and cables and the obvious...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#4
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oil is good and properly filled
this link It's CRITICAL... how you set your transmission's vacuum system on your diesel MBZ... is 19hg at idle and though 2000 rpm to HIGH?????
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#5
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19hg at idle is perfect, IIRC on my '85 it will drop slightly by 2000 rpms though, from very rough recollection to 17-ish?
When the bowden cable adjuster (on the valve cover) broke on my '82 SD it had roughly the same symptoms as yours. (The broken adjuster made the cable effectively longer.)
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
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#6
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There loads of information posted on Benz World here
DIY W123 Transmission Diagnose and Adjustment 722.xx OM 616-7 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#7
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Quote:
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#8
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Quote:
Anyway, I went back and dug up this thread: I would go with what VSTech says: The truth about bowden cables
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
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#9
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cable
If you can get your bowden cable reattached, you can adjust it by wedging some vacuum tubing along the cable. Slice the vac tube longways, then test for shifts. Keep shortening the vac tube until you get the right shift point.
Obviously the best thing to do would be replace the bowden cable if it is broken, but until you can get it fixed this hack will work. It has been working on mine now for about 8 months I broke the plastic screw adjuster
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#10
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had a run in with a grinder, the grinder won.
so i just got some time working on it.the bushing on the shifter arm was shot so i made one for it. thats 1 issue fixed bowden cable seems fine so i re-attached it re attached the vac line to the trans kick down sw. still disconnected by foot pedal still wont shift into 3rd disconnected vac tube to trans will shift into 3rd and 4th now and not at a high rpm ![]() vac line to trans holds vacuum now what should i try next ????????
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#11
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...Governor...
...Is a possible fix - on the 722.3 you'll find it to be accessible from the outside at the back end of the transmission... take it out and clean it.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 10-26-2011 at 04:20 AM. Reason: Made a bit clearer |
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#12
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if the governor is stuck would it shift almost normally with the vac. modulator tube disconnected?????
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#13
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Quote:
If it is almost normally shifting with no vacuum attached but then not working with vacuum attached then that to my mind suggests a vacuum dashpot problem. They are pretty simple little things have you taken it off and cleaned it? ATSG doesn't specify a specific solution to your problem (from what I can see). Problems "in your area" seem to involve the vacuum, control pressure regulating valve (this vacuum dashpot), throttle linkages, governor, throttle stop, and K1 clutch (also used in 4th so probably not the problem)...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#14
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vacuum dashpot
is that the blue saucer thing on dr fender, or is it the vcv on the inj. pump????
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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#15
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Nope - you'll find it at the back of the transmission on the right hand side.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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