It's a great day, so I figured that I'd do the valves for the first time (I haven't owned the car that long). I get to the valves ok, and I'm ready to do the adjustment, but when I turn the power steering pump nut it doesn't turn the engine. The book says that I'm to turn a bolt on the crank, but damned if i can't find this nut, and I went under the car too.

This is not my first valve adjustment, but I gotta figure out a way to get the engine to turn. Any help before I have to put the thing back together?

1/2 inch drive, deep 27 MM socket.

In the center of the harmonic balancer is the 27 MM bolt used to turn the engine..

Harmonic balancer- big thing below the fan water pump bit?

Crank bolt is a pain too get to. Push down (or pull up) on the p/s pump belt to produce more friction while you try and turn the engine (clockwise).

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I've put a lot of preassure on the belt and it just slips on the crank. I'm going to cuss my way around the balancer. Try that out. Thanks board!

When I have used the Powersteering Bolt to rotate the Engine I have had to tighten the Power Steering Belt with the Tensioner bolt. This requires measureing how much Belt Tension you already have.
Loosen the Bolt/Nuts that hold the Power Stearing pump on the Bracket and locating the tensioner Bolt; which my case was hidden under one of the A/C Hoses. Don't tighten the Belt anymore than is needed to rotate the Engine.
When done readjust your Powersteering Belt Tension.

Removing the Glow Plugs or Injectors relieves all of the compression and allows the Engine to be rotated easily. When you do your next Valve adjustment you might time it with something like removing the Glow Plugs and reaming or otherwise cleaning the Carbon out of the Glow Plug holes so that they can be done together.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I always use a remote start button connected to these two terminals.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

That is the easier way, IMO.

This is by far the easiest way. You get much better control if you don't use a push button switch but just a pair of 10 gauge wires with bare ends and touch them together. Just be careful where you lay the wires so they don't short.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I haven't had any problem with control using the switch but you do need to be ready to let go quickly.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

I seem to lack enough cordination to make the Remote Switch work form me reliably.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

what issues do you have with the switch? or are you trying to get the valves pointing exactly at 1oclock? as long as you're not on the ramp, it's fine. unless your cam is damaged, the base circle is fine for 180 degrees!

How many tries does it take for you with the push button switch before you have the cam pointing where you want? Do you overshoot? With the pair of bare wires and using " striking a match" technique, I seldom overshoot and and have very good control where I can turn the cam lobe a few degress at a time.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

You don't say what kind of car you have, neither have it in your signature.

But I've never had a problem putting a socket on a crank bolt in any of the Mercedes I've owned, gas or diesel. It's very easy.

I've tried the PS pulley bolt before and had marginal success. In most cases you end up over torquing the bolt as it tightens even further.

The starter switch works, but is very difficult to get it to end up in the position you want. Try rolling a chain in with a starter switch.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I remove the fan assembly and shroud, and then the crank bolt is real easy to use. I know it's extra steps, but it also allows me to inspect the fan clutch, bolts, water pump, etc. and replace them if needed.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D