Engine clean up, any tips? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Basstrip · #1 02-24-2009, 11:37 PM

I have a 85 300D, I would like to clean up the engine with "Engine degreaser" is any thing that I need to watch out for it, or some thing in particular that I need to cover so do not get water in to it. Please advise.

bgkast · #2 02-24-2009, 11:44 PM

I like the "super gunk" brand. Use warm water and scrub, scrub, scrub!

JimmyL · #3 02-25-2009, 12:17 AM

I prefer the engine cleaner at the carwash. It does a good job with the grease and grime and it doesn't leave the mess at my own driveway!!!
I've heard not to spray directly on the injection pump. But I pretty much have anyway with nary a problem......
My E300 came with a steam cleaned engine. If I bought a car with a really grimy engine I think I would gladly pay to have it steam cleaned. Then maintaining it wouldn't be that bad.....

#4 02-25-2009, 12:36 AM

Wherever you clean it, please don't let it go into the rainwater (street) sewer.

If you wash at a carwash; first make sure they allow it, let the engine cool a few minutes first and don't directly spray the turbo/exhaust manifold, injection pump, brake fluid reservoir or air filter inlet. Its better if you use a carwash as close to home as possible so the engine won't get warm in the first place.

Cr from Texas · #5 02-25-2009, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

I prefer the engine cleaner at the carwash. It does a good job with the grease and grime and it doesn't leave the mess at my own driveway!!!
I've heard not to spray directly on the injection pump. But I pretty much have anyway with nary a problem......
My E300 came with a steam cleaned engine. If I bought a car with a really grimy engine I think I would gladly pay to have it steam cleaned. Then maintaining it wouldn't be that bad.....

x2
I go to one about 2 minutes from the house so engine is not even up to temperature. Spray it all. Drive it after long enough to get it to operating temperature to evaporate all the residual water that might be down in metal casting pores that could rust.

Underside is the problem - I can't get a good shot at the engine bottom from the side of the car. Need a lift.

Bama1 · #6 02-25-2009, 09:28 AM

Read this good advise too:

http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80226-engine-cleaning-detailing.html

mobetta · #7 02-25-2009, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Underside is the problem - I can't get a good shot at the engine bottom from the side of the car. Need a lift.

I do midnight runs- so the place isn't packed and no one gets pissed waiting for me- with a pair of ramps in the car, drive up on them and hose the undercarriage. I wear crappy clothes and some coveralls that I remove before climbing back inside the car. its a nasty job, but worth it, especially before servicing some greasy cars.

#8 02-25-2009, 05:08 PM

My engine wasn't super dirty, So I used a couple cans of Berrymans carb and throttle body spray. This seems to be the strongest solvent in a can I have ever laid eyes on. I soaked my entire engine in it, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then sprayed again. I then used low pressure from my garden hose and washed away the emulsified slurry. Everything, including the engine block, looks like new. I also made sure to spray from underneath, cleaning the oil pan, and lower areas of the car. Worked like a a charm. But it should, because I have done this to aprox. 15 or more engines, with no ill effects what so ever.

bgkast · #9 02-25-2009, 12:37 AM

I think you are just not supposed to spray the IP if it is hot.

compress ignite · #10 02-25-2009, 12:53 AM

Fussbudget Flash:

I had to Foreswear (or is it Afterswear?) all pressure operated engine washes.
(Sooooo Easy and Convenient) The possibility that H2O would invade one of
the Connectors and Corrode unbeknown to me was too high.

EDIT:
Some members use of Simple Green (As mentioned herein) should come with a
WARNING: It is a VERY strong Alkali and Aluminum can be "Stained" by it !!!
Irreversibly!

strelnik · #11 02-27-2009, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I think you are just not supposed to spray the IP if it is hot.

What would the difference be, between between spraying the IP at the car wash and driving through a deep puddle on a hot afternoon, where water got all over the IP?

Jeremy5848 · #12 02-25-2009, 01:06 AM

I've heard that you should not use any high-pressure spray close to areas where two different pieces are joined. Apparently the high-pressure spray can get through the sealant or gasket. No personal experience, just what I've always heard. May be true, may be an old husband's tale. YMMV.

In my experience, spray of any kind just gets dirt spread all over. If oil/dirt/soot is really thick, I scrape it off with a small putty knife (plastic is nice, doesn't scratch) and then follow up with gentle solvents, brushes, rags, and very hot water from a hose or bucket. Biodiesel is a great solvent and is biodegradable (although the stuff it solves off of the engine isn't). Be careful using it around rubber parts and wash everything with soap and hot water.

I did a little at a time and over a couple of years got the whole engine compartment cleaned up. Whenever I worked on one part of the car, I did some cleaning in that area. That spread the job around and made it less onerous.

babymog · #13 02-25-2009, 09:51 AM

I'm happy with Simple Green Max (pump sprayer). I warm the engine up slightly (warm to the touch) so that it will dry quickly, spray on the Simple Green, hose it off. Some buildup of goo will respond well to being scraped to thin it out or you'll need to clean several times.

I've used Gunk and many other aerosol / foaming de-greasers that are nasty chemicals in cleaning my many diesels from Caterpillar to Mercedes, and my experience is that the (boidegradable) Simple Green works as well as or better than any of the expensive toxic ones.

Rinsiing thoroughly is important, and drive the car later to ensure that it is hot and dry.

To do it right you should protect dipstick openings, wiring connections, etc. from any of the degreaser sprays.

Clean leaves etc. out of drain areas before starting.

TX76513 · #14 02-25-2009, 10:23 AM

Hit the Dollar store and purchase an assortment of brushes to get into those tight areas. No degreaser alone is going to get the job done got to use elbow grease! But the results are worth it.

Stevo · #15 02-25-2009, 11:06 AM

I slide one of those large plastic kiddy wading pools under the engine then go at it with a stiff brush and red diesel. The nasty "run off" is used to start the shop stove or slash piles.
I finish the job with "Simple Green" or "409", rags and compressed air.