So in the first pic their is a red with yellow strip vacuum line that attaches to that pink thing. What is it all? It was unplugges but if I plug it in I hear some kind of wining noise that varies it's pitch from low to high. Any ideas?

Second pic: Well as you see I have an ignition swith because the car doesn't turn on with the key. I don't know why. But for now, I'm trying to wire a tape deck. The black sheath has a black, grey, red and brown wire. Does anyone know what they are? Their is also a blue wire not in that sheath. What's that do? Any suggestions?

Thanks...

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1984 300d....

Also in their is a wire connected to the switch and another one to the far right is what I contact the switch to make the car start. What were these wires originally???

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1984 300d....

1. A vac link to your climate control, most likely causing the no-kill with ignition symptom youre having (try turning the key off with this plugged).

2. I BELIEVE (don't quote me):
Brown = ground
Red = switchable (your looks like mine, no constant, though others on this board will swear one is present)
I think the black and grey run to your console fader, then onto your speakers
The blue one is the signal for your auto antenna (to make it go up and down as the radio is turned on and off)

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1989 300E 144K

Man, looks like a hack job (no offense).

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1989 300E 144K

The pink thing is a vac pod and is part of the HVAC (heating ventilating and air conditioning). Activating the pod should open a route for the air from the fan to travel.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

The car must be literally "hot-wired". The wire connected to the switch must tie in to one of the red wires on the back of the ignition switch. The wire to the far right, I suspect, is connected directly to the starter solenoid. This bypasses both the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch. If the shift linkages are worn, the NSS may be very intermittent. Do you also have to use the emer. stop, under the hood, to shut it off?

To sort this out, and possibly restore things, check the back of the ignition switch wiring. You should have (2) red wires (hot from the battery) and a vio/wht wire that connects to the neutral safety switch. The NSS in turn connects to the starter solenoid (WT/VI wire).

(From my understanding, the W123 doesn't have the handy little terminal strip on the fenderwell) I have the diagram for a W126 but the basic system and color-coding should be similar.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

So why the hell doesn't my car turn on with the key anyway....Thanks for the help.

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1984 300d....

Possibly because some one monkeyed with your ignition switch

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

You have a vac leak somewhere, or the shut off valve has failed.

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83 SD

84 CD

Step 1:

Clean Your Car, It Deserves better......


Step 2:

Go Back to the factory setup for ignition.

the sarcasm is strong in this one.

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

Best thing to do is get the CDROMs with the wiring and vacuum diagrams. Then you can put the car back to stock form.

I only have diagrams for the W126 or I would send them to you.

I for one, applaud your efforts so far to bring one back from the dead!

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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
'96 Impala SS
'71 Buick GS conv
'67 GTO conv
'63 Corvair conv
'57 Nomad

I know it deserves better! I just got it and it had been sitting for close to ten years. It needs love I know but first things are first. The car would barely hold an idle till I spent three weeks with the engine. Now that it runs smooth I can begin on the inside. No reason to spend too much time cleaning the outside when you are having to take the car apart to diagnose problems. Sheesh. I'm tryin to give this car a new life and I catch grief for it.... So going back to a factory ignition setup sounds great but I don't know how to do that at all. If you can help that's great but don't try to make me feel bad for this car. She's just learning to breathe again......

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1984 300d....

First, I would suggest toning down the attitude. {hmmm, sounds odd coming from me. } Maybe some folks jumped the gun on the cleanliness thing, but don't fire back, at least until you get your help.
You need to start back with the car in stock trim, ie: the ignition wiring back to stock. Since the wires run to an electrical plug on the back of the ignition switch assy I would think it would be easy to see which wires were spliced into, and then easy to put back to nominal.
Oh, and you have all that going on and you're trying to wire in a tape deck!!! Are you serious?
Blue wire is antenna, btw.......
And Ralph, nice use of sarcasm if I do say so myself.......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

That pink pod controls the vent at your feet.
The noise is most likely from a tear in the internal diaphram.