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#1
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#2
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I like the "super gunk" brand. Use warm water and scrub, scrub, scrub!
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#3
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I prefer the engine cleaner at the carwash. It does a good job with the grease and grime and it doesn't leave the mess at my own driveway!!!
I've heard not to spray directly on the injection pump. But I pretty much have anyway with nary a problem...... My E300 came with a steam cleaned engine. If I bought a car with a really grimy engine I think I would gladly pay to have it steam cleaned. Then maintaining it wouldn't be that bad.....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#4
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Wherever you clean it, please don't let it go into the rainwater (street) sewer.
If you wash at a carwash; first make sure they allow it, let the engine cool a few minutes first and don't directly spray the turbo/exhaust manifold, injection pump, brake fluid reservoir or air filter inlet. Its better if you use a carwash as close to home as possible so the engine won't get warm in the first place. |
#5
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I think you are just not supposed to spray the IP if it is hot.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#6
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ELECTRICAL connections
Fussbudget Flash:
I had to Foreswear (or is it Afterswear?) all pressure operated engine washes. (Sooooo Easy and Convenient) The possibility that H2O would invade one of the Connectors and Corrode unbeknown to me was too high. EDIT: Some members use of Simple Green (As mentioned herein) should come with a WARNING: It is a VERY strong Alkali and Aluminum can be "Stained" by it !!! Irreversibly!
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 02-25-2009 at 04:16 PM. |
#7
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I've heard that you should not use any high-pressure spray close to areas where two different pieces are joined. Apparently the high-pressure spray can get through the sealant or gasket. No personal experience, just what I've always heard. May be true, may be an old husband's tale. YMMV.
In my experience, spray of any kind just gets dirt spread all over. If oil/dirt/soot is really thick, I scrape it off with a small putty knife (plastic is nice, doesn't scratch) and then follow up with gentle solvents, brushes, rags, and very hot water from a hose or bucket. Biodiesel is a great solvent and is biodegradable (although the stuff it solves off of the engine isn't). Be careful using it around rubber parts and wash everything with soap and hot water. I did a little at a time and over a couple of years got the whole engine compartment cleaned up. Whenever I worked on one part of the car, I did some cleaning in that area. That spread the job around and made it less onerous.
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#8
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Dry after washing
Quote:
I go to one about 2 minutes from the house so engine is not even up to temperature. Spray it all. Drive it after long enough to get it to operating temperature to evaporate all the residual water that might be down in metal casting pores that could rust. Underside is the problem - I can't get a good shot at the engine bottom from the side of the car. Need a lift.
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html |
#9
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Read this good advise too:
http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/80226-engine-cleaning-detailing.html
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Bama1 ![]() 2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane" 2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy" 1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans 1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude" 1954 model original owner - ~2.5M Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis ![]() ![]() |
#10
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I'm happy with Simple Green Max (pump sprayer). I warm the engine up slightly (warm to the touch) so that it will dry quickly, spray on the Simple Green, hose it off. Some buildup of goo will respond well to being scraped to thin it out or you'll need to clean several times.
I've used Gunk and many other aerosol / foaming de-greasers that are nasty chemicals in cleaning my many diesels from Caterpillar to Mercedes, and my experience is that the (boidegradable) Simple Green works as well as or better than any of the expensive toxic ones. Rinsiing thoroughly is important, and drive the car later to ensure that it is hot and dry. To do it right you should protect dipstick openings, wiring connections, etc. from any of the degreaser sprays. Clean leaves etc. out of drain areas before starting.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#11
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Hit the Dollar store and purchase an assortment of brushes to get into those tight areas. No degreaser alone is going to get the job done got to use elbow grease! But the results are worth it.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#12
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I slide one of those large plastic kiddy wading pools under the engine then go at it with a stiff brush and red diesel. The nasty "run off" is used to start the shop stove or slash piles.
I finish the job with "Simple Green" or "409", rags and compressed air.
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#13
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Sounds like a nice way to clean it up without leaving an oil spot on the place. Simple green is one of the strongest and best oil disolvers around.
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#14
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I steam clean my engine bay, it's a lot easier and it dose a pretty good job,but it takes forever and uses lots of water...
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN ![]() 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#15
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Quote:
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
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