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#1
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Not so good results from 4spd swap
It seems that everything that could go wrong went wrong. I had a lot of headachss. One of the biggest was that the driveline was too long. I had mine made to the same length as Gavin in his CD which was a 1/4" shorter than the length posted by Rleo. Anyway, I got it in but I had to move the engine forward to get the centering bushing on its spindle then move the engine back. This was about 1/2" So the driveshaft "fits" but not very well.
The main problem is... You got it vibration. I was a little afraid of what I might find when I did this swap. The main thing that had me worried, it that fact that I DID NOT index the auto flywheel when I rebuilt the engine two years ago due to my retarded nature ![]() So I drove the beast home from my buddies garage last night. Everything works great, but I've got a bad vibration at about 1600 rpm most noticeable in 4th though It will do in in the driveway if I can hold the rpm at about 1600. This all leads me to my question: Anyone know how to use an accelerometer and an optical pickup to dynamically balance a flywheel. I can get an accelerometer for ~$30 on fleabay, and I can get Labview on my laptop easy enough, but what to use for an optical pickup for indexing the flywheel I don't know. Also I'm not real sure how to actually balance it. Would I measure the phase angle between the peak acceleration and the index from the flywheel and drill out the flywheel at the same angle physically? Lets pool our brains and solve this problem for everyone attempting this swap bajaman
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#2
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Is the vibration present around 1600 RPM regardless of the speed? If so, I'd guess the longer shaft is putting a bind on the mounts and causing the transmission of more engine vibes to the chassis.
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-Evan Benz Fleet: 1968 UNIMOG 404.114 1998 E300 2008 E63 Non-Benz Fleet: 1992 Aerostar 1993 MR2 2000 F250 |
#3
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did you have the drive shaft balanced as a whole?
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#4
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AFAIK everybody who has done the swap has some vibration around that rpm range. The 300Ds that came with manuals in had some sort of extra disk between the flex disk and the transmission that may have been used to eliminate this vibration.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#5
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There are pictures somewhere on the forum of those extra large balancing discs attached to a driveshaft.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#6
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I just got one of those this weekend. And for future reference, the 300D 4-speed manual driveshaft length from tip to tip is 22-1/4 inches for the short shaft and 46" tip to tip for the long shaft (including the u-joint).
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#7
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I believe they did came on Euro, manual, 300Ds. A friend had one one which was discarded when he went to a 5 spd box. I have never seen one on a 240D, Euro.
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#8
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My 240D had one of those balancers. The rubber was coming apart, so I took it off. No driveline vibration with or without it.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#9
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Quote:
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#10
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You need this
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#11
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Lots of good info here. I know that my driveshaft is not responsible for the bulk of the vibration as I get it in the driveway just sitting there if I rev the engine to 1600 rpm. I believe this somehow gets amplified in 4th, perhaps it resonates through the drivetrain. Anyhow, I took the flywheel off and took it and the flexplate to the machine shop to have it match balanced. I guess I will try it 12 different times if I have to in order to find the proper index.
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#12
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How does that dampener attach?
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#13
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Not all conversions
...for the record, I don't have any vibration, at least none really noticeable. Lots of gear noise, some throwout bearing noise, but no vibration. Did not index my flywheel, don't have the balancer pictured earlier in this thread. Maybe I just got lucky.
I don't think you can state a fixed length for the driveshafts on conversions. If you are putting a 240 tranny into a 300, measure, measure and measure again. There are at least two different lengths of 4-speed trannys. My measurement was close but not identical to what others got for both the shafts and the shift rods. If your driveshaft is too long, I would re-cut it. I know, $$$$, but I think you are in for problems down the road. There is a splined section that is supposed to give in two directions. That can't be good at full compression for any length of time.
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Peter 1985 300TD 4-speed 212K 1992 400E 343K 2001 E320 72K |
#14
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Maybe I wasn't clear, the length is only a problem for getting it in. Once installed there is at least 1/2" clearance before full compression, which should be more than enough.
And as far as length goes I don't suppose that the factory is going to measure each one...
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#15
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I took the tranny back out last week and took the original auto flywheel and the manual flywheel to the machine shop. The machinist said that they were both neutral??? So, I bolted just the auto flywheel on- no detectable vibration. Bolted the manual flywheel on- no vibration. Bolted the clutch and pressure-plate on- no vibration. Bolted the transmission on- Now I feel the vibration. Two possibilities present themselves. One the absence of the third mount transmitted less vibration to the body. The other possibility is that there is something in the tranny causing an imbalance. The second point does not seem very likely, as I feel the vibration with the tranny in gear, and the clutch disengaged in the driveway...
I replaced all the mounts (two engine and one transmission). I guess it's possible that the mounts are all a little stiff at this point. Other thoughts? bb
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For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
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