A few questions on the 190D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

NickCox · #1 10-23-2007, 10:10 PM

Hi, I purchased a 190D 1985 2.2 Mercedes. There seems to be many problems with it and I was hoping for some help(can't find any manuals on this engine). I have a list of problems

1. Leaking diesel from around injection pump
2. Oil in antifreeze over flow (I'm replacing the head gasket and need any info about it)
3. Tranny shifts hard. vacuum cables don't look the best
4. Can not find a pump to bleed to fuel lines
5. More help about the head gasket such as tips and tools needed
6. Hard starting 55F! glow plugs?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

dwayneb · #2 10-23-2007, 10:38 PM

You don't need a pump for bleeding the fuel lines on a 190d. Just tighten everything up and run the starter until it primes everything. DO NOT run the starter for more than 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Let the starter cool for a minute or two after about 30 seconds of spinning.

You can order Shop Manual CD's, probably from Phil.

Can't help you with the other stuff.

mcguirjf · #3 10-24-2007, 01:16 PM

I had a 1985 190D. To do the head gasket your going to need the long splined socket to remove / install the head bolts. Check Baum tools website. Your engine is the OM601, chassis W201.

Your going to need...
1 new set of head bolts (these are one time use due to stretch)
2 headgasket set
3 MB silicon
4 Front oil seal
5 Timing chain
6 Timing chain tensioner
7 Head bolt socket
8 thermostat
9 hoses
10 Water pump
That should cover the head gasket job and then some. I would recommend that you leave the exhaust manifold bolted to the head and just remove the two nuts to the front exhaust pipe. When doing the head gasket it is a good time to change the front oil seal and the silicon that seals up the front timing cover.

Leaking IP- sounds like your "delivery valves" are leaking (use the forum search function)

Needs...
1 Delivery valve removal tool (splined socket)
2 Seal kit that includes washers and o-rings

Hard shift tranny

Start replacing all the rubber hoses, one at a time, and try to use the same size hoses as this car is sensitive to vaccum. A vaccum tester / pump is an excellent tool for this.

To bleed the IP, hold the pedal to the floor and crank over engine. This is how you bleed your fuel system.

To check if your glow plugs are bad...
Does the coil light "Glow Plug Light" turn on for a few seconds and then off?

The best way to check if the GP's are working is remove the injectors in the cylinder head, turn the key and look down the holes. When and if you see all four are lighting up, install the new heat shields that come with the head gasket set under the injectors. Verify orientation of heat shield and that the old ones are removed! The heat shield creates a seal between your cylinder head and injector.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes!

NickCox · #4 10-24-2007, 02:47 PM

Thank you for the quick reply and a helpful answers

Does any one know how the tach worked on these cars?

Once in a while the tach will work just fine then randomly stop working

Also do I need to replace the timing chain and tensioner, and oil seal water pump?

klaus kallas · #5 10-24-2007, 03:33 PM

The tach works via a sensor at the front crank pulley. If it acts up only occasionally, I would guess it may be a poor fuse connection (Check the #10 fuse).

If you are going to have the head off anyway, may as well replace the listed items, chain in particular. Get a set of valve stem seals and cam followers (lifters) as well and take advantage of the cam being removed.

How many miles on the engine? The 601 is a damn stout little engine...must have really baked to blow the head gasket!

NickCox · #6 10-24-2007, 05:49 PM

200000 miles not really 'blown' a little oil in the antifreeze after long driving

NickCox · #7 10-25-2007, 08:43 PM

Here are some pics from the engine. Some are of the 2 bolts striped on the intake manifold? (what i call it) and was wondering how to get them off. I'm only 16 and don't have access to a welder, so that can't work (and the diesel everywhere). I already JB welded the allen wrenches on with no luck. The other pics are of the IP just wondering if you could tell where the leak is from the pic. Just sitting in the garage for two days left a foot by foot puddle of diesel.

Also can i just tie welders wire around the camshaft sprocket to keep the timing and just reassemble it that way. No money for parts such as timing chain
Thanks for previous replys

babymog · #8 10-25-2007, 08:49 PM

For the bolts, I'd try an easy-out and an impact driver (the kind you smack with a hammer). Should loosen them right up.

NickCox · #9 10-25-2007, 08:56 PM

Cool ill try that just got to get it back from someone its a 6mm allen wrench head how will that work into my impact driver

klaus kallas · #10 10-25-2007, 08:58 PM

Nick,

If you can get to the bolt heads with a grinder, just grind or cut them off. Once the intake is lifted out then you can get to the shaft with a pair of vice-grips and replace the bolt with a new one.

Also, you can try to get around the outside of the head with a bolt extractor (if you have access to such things) or cut a slit into the top of the bolt with a chisel and try to push it around (counter-clockwise, of course) with the same chisel and hammer. They are going into aluminum, so it shouldn't take much to get them to spin.

As for the chain, yes, you can just wire it into place. Be sure to mark the position of the chain to the sprocket with a punch (preferred) or paint.

Klaus
cell # 919-333-3182 if you run into any snags......

babymog · #11 10-25-2007, 09:01 PM

"easy outs" have a couple of different designs, generally have a reverse thread and are conical, so as you drive them CCW into the bolt head they turn the bolt out. The trick IMO is to use an impact driver, it seats the easy-out into the bolt at the same time as the shock helps to break friction, and a little pressure to unload the threads and reduce the friction. I've never had any luck with easy-outs until I started using the impact driver.

NickCox · #12 10-25-2007, 09:03 PM

Thanks i thought of the grinder, but figured i'd blow the house up i go and chisel that right now. Hope to be cruising the diesel around next week

klaus kallas · #13 10-25-2007, 09:08 PM

Nick,

The diesel is definetly your delivery valve o-rings. Cheap and easy......

Be sure to keep them covered while working on the rest and before you pull them out, clean around the area EXTREMELY well to keep any of that beautiful, black crud from getting into the injection pump

!

NickCox · #14 10-25-2007, 09:41 PM

Those are on the top of the ip right? Ill attach a pic

klaus kallas · #15 10-26-2007, 12:24 PM

Nick,

You are correct. Here is a link to some info on replacing them Fuel leak diagnosed, but how to replace rubber seals?

Some people may call me crazy for suggesting this, but how bad is the mixing of oil and coolant? Is antifreeze on the oil dipstick? If it is limited to the cooling system, you may be able to drive it as is for awhile. I am by no means recommending this as a good thing to do, just that it may be possible.

The only reason I suggest it is you mentioned a lack of cash. Removing the head and taking it to be machined can get a bit costly on top of other items that should be replaced while it is apart. I'd just hate to see you get into the middle of this job and get stuck! If you replace the fuel o-rings, glow plugs and track down your hard shifting tranny issue, you may be able to use it and build up some dough to do the more major repairs....

Just adding my thoughts, as I've been there, too.

Good luck,

Klaus