Removing Rear Springs on 123 wagon w/o Spring Compressor

[groovinola]

Can this be done SAFELY? If not who out there has rigged their own.

My wagon will not level out in the rear and the only explanation is that the passengers side rear spring is out of place. I have the strut out, the sway bar link removed and the PS Rear will not go below 14" from center of tire to top of wheel well while the other side sits around 10.5" in the same position- more of what I would expect with the hydraulic valve totally bled and in the "lower" position. The spring seems to be the only thing holding the passenger side up. Am I missing something??

[tarnbarn]

Woody,
You are having fun....
From memory you can slip the rear springs in and out w/o a spring compressor if you undo the subframe bolt as well, that should drop the trailing arm low enough to get it out safely...
I read your post the other day and thought "spring not seated"... i hope it's that simple.

Giles

[dieseldan44]

Originally Posted by groovinola

Can this be done SAFELY? If not who out there has rigged their own.

My wagon will not level out in the rear and the only explanation is that the passengers side rear spring is out of place. I have the strut out, the sway bar link removed and the PS Rear will not go below 14" from center of tire to top of wheel well while the other side sits around 10.5" in the same position- more of what I would expect with the hydraulic valve totally bled and in the "lower" position. The spring seems to be the only thing holding the passenger side up. Am I missing something??

This article applies to both W123 and W126.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings

Can't comment on how the SLS will affect you, or if you analysis is correct...but, on my '82 sedan it takes about 20 minutes to get the spring out using that article. You may need a 2x4 to push down on the control arm to get that last 1/4" to 1/2" clearance you need. Whatever you do, dont go and do something like unbolt the diff for more clearance. It works great to get clearance, but re-assembly is not so fun. How do I know you ask?

Good luck, its not as bad as it sounds.

[tarnbarn]

Hi again Woody,
Did you install using a compressor? IF you did, maybe you failed to get it seated properly...the spring sits in a formed notch inside the trailing arm - there's only one correct position (it's a matter of rotating it till it seats), but I'd guess that if you installed with a compressor you'd never notice... maybe I'm wrong

Giles

[groovinola]

A couple things:
First DieselDan thanks for your input and the link to that DIY article. I had stumbled across it over the weekend in my frenetic search. I don't think it applies to my particular situation. This wagon has a metal peice welded onto the trailing arm and also the frame? that come together at a point and do not allow the trailing arm to drop far enough for the spring to lose all its compression. i don't see a simple way to get these two peices past one another without taking alot apart and making a mess of the situation.

Luckily I may have located a spring compressor from a mechanic shop up the street from me. i am going to get it tomorrow morning. I only have to compress the spring about 2-3" to get it out, not nearly as much as what i remember having to do to get the front springs out.

Giles, i didn't install these springs. they were obviously put in by the same rocket scientist who changed out the struts and put in cheapo shock absorbers. that alone says alot about the situation and leads me to believe (and hope) an improperly seated spring is the culprit. also when i look at the spring it is not sitting straight up and down but is sort of bowed out a little. it just doesn't look right to me.

i'll keep you posted on my big adventure. the six week rear suspension saga. ah yes what fun i'm having. all the more satisfaction when i finally get it fixed.

peace,
woody