what is the best way to drain the oil?
 

I do not have access to a lift, but I do have a full shop floor, and floor jacks.
I pull the filter, replace it and the large o-ring, the two small orings on the bolt don't come with the filter... I will change them another time.
then jack the car up front as high as it will go. the oil pan looks like most of the oil is in the sump, but I bet a quart or so gets in the back of the pan when jacked up this way.
Should I jack up the rear as well?
maybe, use ramps up front and jack up the rear?
How do you guys raise your vehicles to get the most oil out of the pan?
I only got about 6 quarts in after draining my sump, so I figure atleast 1 quart is still in there. not to mention the oil in the cooler and lines. but I know of no way to drain that.
hints suggestions? ARRGH.:confused:
John

I don't raise my 300CD up at all to drain the oil. There's a "low spot" in my driveway that gives me enough clearance to unscrew the plug and drain the oil out.

If you want the extreme solution you can buy an "oil vacuum" that will remove the oil through the filler. I'd only recommend this if you feel as though you absolutely positively must spend the $80 or whatever it is for the vacuum.

Does some oil remain in the motor regardless of how you drain it? Sure it does, but as long as you change it hot and change it often, no reason to get paranoid over it.

Bit anal about changing your oil. LOL. I just roll mine on ramps and change it. If your really worried about the extra quart in the channels etc you can always put in a few quarts turn engine over a few times and drain that.

I don't lift my car at all to drain the oil. I just get it up to full temperature park it on level ground and reach under to take out the plug. Then I replace the filter while it's draining. By the time I'm done with the filter, it's done draining so I replace the plug and refill (7 quarts in the 617 turbo) and start it to refill the filter. I then wait a while (5 or 10 minutes) and check the level. It usually takes between 7 and 7.5 quarts to fill it to the midpoint on the dipstick. The 616 takes a total of about 6.5 quarts.

BTW, I replaced the little filter O-rings last time on the 617. The old ones were petrified, they just snapped off like hard plastic.

I drain mine when cold. I'm not into the burning hot oil sensation.

I crack the top on the oil filter housing, pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight.

I also put a coffee can underneath the lower oil filter hose fitting at the cooler. I crack the fitting and let that drain overnight. It gets about 20 oz. of oil from the cooler.

Next morning, I change the filter, button it up, and fill it. Usually takes 7 quarts to bring it slightly above the low mark..........just where I want it.

Wow, brian, 20 0z is over 1/2 quart
 

and you only get 7 quarts in? hmm. I must be doing something wrong. but I am sure it is getting better care from me than the last owner.
John

I don't lift it either. I just reach under and unbolt the plug.
I remove the lower oil cooler fitting and drain the cooler too.

Danny

what is the best way to drain the oil?
 

I am skinny so I fit underneath the car real easy without having to jack it off the ground. :)

curb side
 

i am skinny but not that skinny, i pull the car onto the curb so that the right side (front and back tires on the curb) is up 5 inches or so and the left side is on the street, i wiggle in and change it from there. i use 9 quarts in the 603.960:)

I can just get my drain pan in there with it sitting level on the ground. I've been leery of trying to crack the lines at the oil cooler to get that little bit out for fear of stripping the threads but I took the cooler off of the '85 without a problem so next time I think I'll give it a shot. I get the car up to operating temp, break the seal on the filter housing, open the drain plug, and let it drain for an hour or so.

i always jack it up on the drivers side and drain the oil. I change it hot so i can get as much oil out as i can. I also remove the oil filler cap and oil filter housing cap so the oil drains quicker, after it starts to drip i lower the car and more oil comes out. Let it drop out until i get drips that are about 10 seconds apart.

Always worked for me.

I usualy don't have to jack the car up. With the SDL the plug is right there just reach under and losen it. The SD is a bit more of a pita, I have to jack it up a few inch's to get at it.

Once I get off my but and put the sound panals under the SDL I'll just suck it out. You get 8 quarts with a topsider, no reason to get dirty!:D

i noticed
 

yea, i noticed with my 87 300D that when i had the plastic sound proofing layer off (for a while), i could kinda squat and reach under and get the plug out and the oil pan would fit under. i didnt have to lay on the ground. if it wasn't for that sound barrier plastic thing (which i think i one of the neetest parts of the car) i could do an oil change in like 15 minutes, easy! as for now i kinda lay uner there and admire the engine :dizzy2: and it can take me up to 40 minutes to do the oil change.

I drain it whenever the mileage indicates and do it hot.

I do not consider it of any consequence on my Merc diesels whether there be a 1/2 quart or so left upside the oilpan as I use synthetics.

On my antiques,however,especially the 30-98 I drain it hot,immediately fill with cheap 30wt "flushing oil",run it for 10 miles or so,drain the flushing oil and refill with quality single weight Castrol or Pennzoil for another 1,500 miles.
My experience operating a machine shop catering to historic vehicles has dictated this.

are there any mb oil coolers that you heard of that has a drain plug?