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Dash Removal Comments
I've been parting out a couple of W123s and am at the last step with one of them: the dash. All I can say is WOW. That is a royal PITA to remove. It is built like a puzzle too. There is always something that you have to remove before you remove any other part. Often there are 4 things that you have to remove first.
I was thinking of swapping in this manual control setup in place of the 1984 climate control in my "keeper" wagon, but I'm going to think twice about that. This is a lot of work. -Tad
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1995 G320 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe 2005 ML500 2007 ML350 |
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I've removed two of them so far. I didn't think they were that bad compared to some of the old American stuff I've worked on in the past. Paul.
'84 300CD 290,000 |
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I thought putting the dash back in was the hard part. Getting all the vent ducts re-connected was a bit of a puzzle. It's kinda cool to see all the on goings under the dash. Lots of stuff under there.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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Are there any other threads that provide more details on dash removal and installation? or does anyone want to walk me through it?
thanks p |
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For a 123 that is. Can't find much on a search...
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Quote:
i suppose mr carlton was correct when he said repairs would find me sooner than later; my heater smells sweet and i am guessing i need a heater core. itll also let me replace the loose keyswitch as well maybe even replace my cracked pad with a less ugly one!
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
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a) Remove the speaker covers - there one screw under each spkr cover - those come out.
b) Remove the instrument cluster along with both lower kick panels. c) At both out outer edges adjacent to the door there is a fastener that will have to be removed. d) In the passenger footwell to the left at the dash to console interface there is a fastener that will need to come out. e) Remove the wood assembly with the four switches for the sunroof, defrost, etc... You will find two screws that have to come out there. f) Remove the brake pull handle and the light switch. f) The one I always forget and typically end up breaking is the interior temp sensor. There is a connector that you can disconnect to remove it. g) Remove the chrome ring around the ignition switch. h) Remove the flex hoses that go to the outside dash pods. This is going on memory but I believe this is all. The tricky part is positioning the dash at an angle to slide it out with. I usually try to do it from the passenger side. You are less than 1/2 way there (removal stage only)in the evap job when you have the dash out. In my opinion the dash removal is pretty straightforward. In addition, I have never had any issues with rattling or unusual noises after doing an evaporator job thank goodness.
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Jim |
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Cool.. just saw this is POST1000..........
I hope the inside of my 300D never looks like that picture.........
YIKES! Engatwork that is a nice step by step....It actually looks in the pic that more was done then described because of the chaotic looking final stage. Is it true that putting back together is trickier? I would love to tackle this to fix my center vents, and clean the evaporator up.
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
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I honestly hope I never have to do that....but I will be pulling that suff from my W116 parts car to have just in case...before the shell gets hauled off.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
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If you are up for some entertainment, look at the Death of a 300D thread. That place is called Davis Industries and is right down off of Rt1.
I'm going to learn to work like this guy and do my work through the glove box, instrument cluster and vent holes: http://www.johnrausch.com/PuzzleWorld/toc.asp?t=_des/he001.htm&m=des/he000.htm -Tad
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1995 G320 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe 2005 ML500 2007 ML350 |
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Almost as bad as a Volvo 240 Blower motor R&R.
Great admiration for Engatwork. Even more if he got it put back together. |
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Quote:
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
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1995 G320 2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe 2005 ML500 2007 ML350 |
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A year ago our 85 looked like Jim's picture. At first I thought I was in for a nightmare but after the last portion of re-assembly I looked back on it and it wasn't that hard of a job. The best things to do are go slow, carefully label all parts, and if something doesn't move don't force it. Anytime something didn't move I took extra time to see what was holding it. Most of the time it was a fastener that I forgot or didn't see. As long as you have it all apart replace all of the bulbs in the dash and console whether they need it or not. It will save you from taking part of it apart again. I had to take some of it apart again because the bulb for the fiber optic cables went out.
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1983 300-D turbo 1985 300-D turbo 1959 Harley Panhead chopper 1929 Ford coupe restored I hang out with Boneheaddoctor at Schuman Automotive OBK#5 All liberals are mattoids but not all mattoids are liberal. |
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Anyone's dash start rattling to hell once removed and replaced? That's what id be wary of.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
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