I do not recomend using 3m Super Weatherstrip Advisive tube glue (yellow death), part number 051135-08001. I spent six hours prepping my hood; spraying, chiseling, spraying, chiseling, spraying, chiseling and finally cleaning. That was the worst job I've done yet on my 300sd. Worse than the expansion valve change that I did. After all that work it turns out that I made a very bad choice for adhesive. I emptied the tube evenly over the hood pad and then tried to spread it into a light layer as per the directions. The glue began to get firm and I was not able to spread it only several minutes after it was first applied. I worked as fast as I could to get full coverage around the edge. I then applied the pad with the help of another person. It did not stick worth a damn. I worked for 20 minutes trying to hold the pad to the hood. There just wasn't any holding power in the glue. I'd guess that about 30% of the pad is loose.

It seems to me the glue just dries too fast for this job. If you can get the glue on the surface and the hood pad up within a couple of minutes you might be ok. Also the foam is too porous for this type of glue. I don't think it's designed for use on foam. Please save yourself this frustration and use the proper part for this job, 3m Super Weather Advisive Spray. You can get it at Napa for around 14 or 15 dollars. Don't be a cheap ass like me and try to save 10 dollars. Spend the money and do the job right the first time. Wish me luck with my floppy hood pad.

One of the 3M products with a name like you mention looks and smells like contact adhesive. I don't know if contact adhesive is well suited for underhood application. If it is then I would take the pad to someone who installs headliners, they spray contact adhesive from a sprayer like a paint sprayer and could make quick work of the hood insulation.

First, on Contact Cements.... they are supposed to dry before putting the parts together...and you must coat each part which is to be put together...
I guess you did not have the benifit of the seach before you started this job...
This has been discussed..... even to the extent of me posting the picture of the PROPER 3M Contact SPRAY to use.... as a lightweight is also available which looks almost identical... BUT which is not made for the higher heat and weight of a hood pad...

I've had luck at times and no luck at times. All of this is with the same spray.

I don't know if its a combo of humidity, surface prep, etc, but every now and then I get one to work. I've probably done this job 6 times with about 50% success. The truth comes out about six months down the road. I have 2 of them falling off again, while several others are there for life....

Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

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Check out this...

hood pad won't stick...

I used 3M High Strength 90 (the spray in a green accented can) for both of my hood pads and had no problems what so ever. Used blue painters tape for a clean edge and probably could not do it alone- and I didn't; so it came out great, and no sagging at all. Two years on one, one year on the other.

Several years ago, on my 190E, I replaced the hood pad. My Indy advised me to use some sort of 3M black weatherstrip adhesive, in a tube. I do not remember the exact numbers at this time.

I decided not to take his advice, and used a spray adhesive instead. Wrong!

I did very good prep work, but the spray adhesive just did not hold. It was sort of like a "post it" note. You could stick it up, but it would fall back down. Finally, I gingerly pulled the hood pad back, and liberally applied the black weatherstrip adhesive, behind the hood pad, and it sticks like a champ to this day, (Except one little spot, where I did not get the weatherstrip adhesive. It's a small spot, about the size of a pie pan, and til this day, I can press it up, and it will stick, for a day or two.)

Just another experience.


george d

Wow, cool use of the search function there to find exactly what you needed to find...

by the way, you and Randy sound like an old married couple....especially after one of the couple tooted in bed! ! !

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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After replacing hundreds of sound pads on Porsches and Mercedes, this is what works best for me... every time.

Spread a cheapo plastic drop cloth across the engine bay to collect the old crap you must scrape off. Cleaning is the key to a long lasting job. Then I spread a layer of high quality contact cement, the flamable kind, on the hood and over most of the sound pad, especially all of the perimeter. Now toss the drop cloth. Use a cheapo paint brush and toss it when finished.

Get someone to help you and start at the edge nearest the windshield. Smooth it out from the center to the edges working your way toward the front bumper. Go slow, be accurate. It's hard to remove even at this stage and nearly impossible once it's set for thirty minutes. The new composition sound pads last a long time

Just what exactly are you getting at?

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Where do you get a hood pad? I need to replace the one on my 84 300td wagon. Thanks.

Call Phil here at fastlane (http://catalog.peachparts.com/) and he should be able to get you one: 1-888-333-4642

Not only does the 3M 8090 product do a great job in holding up the hood pad, but the spray nozzle on the can "throws" out the adhesive as a wiggling strand. The result is tremendous control with the applicator. I didn't use (or need) any masking and sprayed right to the edge of the hoodpad. Expensive ($17) but worth it, even for a cheap ba----- like me.

I've had good luck with the 8090 too. Check for fuel leaks. My return lines were spraying fuel [I didn't think that bad], but over time it was enough to release the glue. ANY glue will release if it's constantly exposed to fuel.

Cheers,

Bill

Funny this came up, just finished the new hood pad on the 300D this evening. Took about 2 hrs to get most of the old glue off (and I gave up, I'm old enough to know when to quit sometimes) -- the previous installer used LOTS of glue -- must have thought that if a little was good, better dip the car twice to make sure. Naturally, there wasn't any on the PAD, so it fell off anyway.

There wasn't really anything wrong with the old pad except for large sections falling off -- had to rip it to bits to get it out. Almost wish I'd just glued it back up, but I'm glad I didn't.

The new pad (from WorldPac, probably the same as from FastLane) is a fabric or fiber faced one in black with a nice aluminum heat shield for the spot where the trap oxidizer once was. This is where my old one, plain foam, no facing, failed first. Hopefully, I won't be doing this again on THIS car for a while (I have two more that need them soon....)

The new pad is very quiet -- can't even hear that bad tappet with the hood closed. The 3M adhesive seems to be working perfectly, it's stuck nicely everywhere I got glue on both sides (I didn't get really good coverage at the edges were it tucks under, didn't want it to stick in the wrong places. I left the hood all the way up for the night.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!