shut off valve replacement hints - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

garyrl · #16 08-24-2004, 04:00 PM

I will be replacing the shut-off valve on my '81 300TD this weekend and you guys have now got me soooooo paranoid.

Wish me luck.

Gary
Eugene, OR

garyrl · #17 08-25-2004, 08:12 PM

Just curious, approximately how long does it take to install the shut off valve (no problems)?

Thanks,
Gary

kerry · #18 08-25-2004, 08:21 PM

We'll both be doing it this weekend. I just got the part in the mail. I'm guessing half an hour on a NA 617. Longer on the turbo since some (all?) have the vacuum switch for the tranmission right on top of the shut off valve. I think it needs to be removed to get access to the shut off. It it isn't removed, serious contortions will be necessary.

autozen · #19 08-25-2004, 11:29 PM

Yes, I always remove the vacuum switch on top of the pump to gain access. When you install the new shut off, be sure to come in from the side and hook the main rack. Pull the unit back out a couple of times to feel a tug and be sure you are hooked. Then push the unit straight in and install the 4 screws. If you feel uncomfortable with the procedure, which I can understand, pull off all the air cleaner stuff and have a board ready to slap on the intake.

Good luck,
Peter

garyrl · #20 08-26-2004, 01:23 AM

Autozen,

What do you mean "come in from the side"?

Thanks,
Gary

#21 08-26-2004, 03:25 AM

Kerry, I'm not sure that your set up is the same as in my 84 300DT but if it is, you can remove and replace the IP Shut Off valve without removing the oil filter housing. Ensure that you have the BOSCH OEM brand (definitely not that cheap and don't last RONAK brand

).

I found the DIY procedure and related warnings (scary runaway engine) in this FORUM by doing a "SHUT OFF VALVE" search. Very helpful.

autozen · #22 08-26-2004, 05:01 PM

84W,
All the OM617.95_ motors ( engines for my friend PEH) are the same. You do not have to remove the oil filter housing to change the shut off valve.

Gary,
I know it's a bit confusing,but I'll try to explain. Showing and typing are two different things. To get an idea of what I'm trying to say, remove the 4 screw of the old unit while holding it in place with your other hand. Once the screws are removed, pull the old unit straight out. You can't do it, because it is hooked into the main rack. Push the unit back in slightly (I"VE JUST totally lost control of my keyboard and have no control over caps and punctuation so i will try to finish this post as best I CAN> (DAMN COMPUTERS) i will have to reboot> some guy was installig a program that called for WINDOWS NINETY FIVE or better so he installed LINUX> I SHOULD DO THAT>

PETER

autozen · #23 08-26-2004, 05:35 PM

Gary,
I'm back after rebooting. I don't know what that ***** was all about. I guess that was just Microsoft. Now to finish my post, after you have pushed the unit back in about 20mm or so, rotate the end in your hand towards the engine block and pull the unit out. By doing this you have unhooked the unit from the main rack. Look at both the old and new unit and notice the hook on the end. What I meant by coming in from the side was to introduce the new unit at an angle and the square it off with the pump to hook the main rack. Remember that this shut off retracts when vacuum is applied so it must pull something with the hook on the end. You need to hook the main rack to pull it to shut off the fuel. The reason these engines run away is because someone with no knowledge of how the system works just puts the new unit in the hole and bolts it down. What that does is push the main rack to full fuel feed with no way to shut it down. Again introduce the new unit all the way at an angle based on the direction of the hook, square it off with the pump, and try to pull it out again. If you can't pull it out, you are hooked. Push it straight back in and bolt it up. Now that you understand how it works, you shouldn't have any problems. There is an old saying that says: " give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man how to fish, and he will spend all day out in a boat drinking beer". Hope I was Explicit enough.

Good luck guys,
Peter

garyrl · #24 08-27-2004, 01:32 AM

Very good explanation Autozen.

Thanks,
Gary
'81 300TD
'69 Jeepster
'96 Son
'99 Son

garyrl · #25 08-27-2004, 07:52 PM

IT WORKS!!!! I received the valve today in the mail at 12:00pm and had it installed by 1:00pm. With phone book in hand, fuel line cutters ready and my fingers crossed, I had my son fire it up. It started and idled. ...and it shut off when I turned the key off. Whew, what a relief. I had to remove the vacuum switch to get to the bolts. And I had to undo the heater hose from the block and move it out of the way to get the new valve in. The only problem I ran into, was the plastic clip that holds the linkage onto the vacuum switch broke. A "C" retainer clip fixed that. Thanks to all on this message board for your help, especially Autozen. I followed your directions to a "t" and everything worked just fine. Now I no longer have to open my hood at least twice a day.

Thanks again,
Gary
'81 300TD
'69 Jeepster
'91 Son
'96 Son

autozen · #26 08-28-2004, 09:32 AM

Gary,
Congratulations and thanks for the thanks. That's all anyone on this board asks. You can now perfom this job for your friends with confidence.

I'm also glad that my directions were explicit enough for you to follow. I wish that were the case with the directions that come with things I buy.

Peter

kerry · #27 08-28-2004, 01:15 PM

Did mine today. Took about 20 minutes to switch out the valves and about another hour of posting and thinking to make sure I had it installed correctly. The manual shut off lever did not move when vacuum was applied to the new vacuum shut off valve. THIS IS NORMAL AND CORRECT.

It was a great job on which to use my new gear wrenches. Not much room for a socket in there. I did not have to remove the heater hose. The old one came out and the new one went in, below the heater hose between the IP and filter housing. It goes in and out with the 'hook' end of the valve facing the fender. I felt the old valve 'hook' when I pulled it back about an inch. (it fell backwards once all the bolts were loose). I put the new one in and it felt the same. Much simpler than I expected. Angle the new valve towards the drivers side of the IP to get it in the hole, with the 'hook' pointed up. Then turn the valve and pull back. You can feel it catch. Install the bolts, take the cover off the ail cleaner, get out the wooden block, 17mm wrench, and side cutters in case you screwed up, and fire it up.

autozen · #28 08-28-2004, 10:57 PM

Kerry,
You're welcome. I know you didn't say thanks, but I'm saying you're welcome. I provided professional advice that I normally charge $70/hr for. Gary showed appreciation, but maybe I'm wrong, and you didn't read any of my posts and did it on your own. If so I appologize for my rudeness.

Peter

kerry · #29 08-29-2004, 10:47 AM

No offense intended. Thanks to everyone who replied.

Kerry

JamesStein · #30 09-18-2004, 11:47 AM

Thanks for the detailed explaination autozen. It made my swap quite simple. Unfortunately it didn't solve my shutdown problem.. most be all the oil from the leaking diaphram thats in the lines.. time to flush em I guess.