Patching paint

[bgkast]

I will soon be welding in a rust patch panel and fixing assorted paint chips on my light ivory colored 240D. Because I don't have a spray gun or compressor my plan is to smooth the repair area with 600 grit paper then mask around the repair and paint using an aerosol automotive primer and some color matched paint I had the local paint place put in an aerosol can for me. Then I will unmask, smooth out the ridge of paint from the masking and apply clear coat.

My concern is the clear coat. I read on the forum that this car has a solvent based clear coat, which are no longer available. Will I have a compatibility problem using a modern clear coat? Any other tips or suggestions? Thank you. –Bryan

[leathermang]

Tell us more about this ....

"color matched paint I had the local paint place put in an aerosol can for me."

Do you have a picture of that ? Are you using the " Preval" system ?

[scottytech]

One of the first things I learned one summer working in a body shop is that you don't mask around the patch or you will have straight lines that define where you patched. We would always mask off the panel where the patch was located and sand a foot or more out from the patch. We would then paint the area, trying to feather the paint from the patch into the old paint. We had spray guns, so when we had feathered with paint, we would hit the edges lightly with a spray of thinner to help the new paint blend.

Regarding the clear coat, I've used the new spray can clear coats on cars, other than MBZ, with very good success. I don't think you will have any problems, but you might want to spray some on the area you are going to patch before you remove the area to see what it does to any paint/clear coat that is left in the rust area.

Scotty

[leathermang]

"hit the edges lightly with a spray of thinner "

Those spray cans used to be available ( 1970's the last time I saw them ) at the same rack which the hand size matching paint cans were.... they worked like magic with a little practice. Of course when dealing with enamel it was called ' reducer' according to tradition.

[bgkast]

Originally Posted by leathermang

Tell us more about this ....

"color matched paint I had the local paint place put in an aerosol can for me."

Do you have a picture of that ? Are you using the " Preval" system ?

I gave them my paint code and they mixed me up some paint, I'll take a look at the can later and post if it has any more specific information. I had them put some in a can and some in a areosol can. I already touched up a chip with the paint from the can and it is a perfect match to the original paint. What is the " Preval" system?

[bgkast]

Originally Posted by scottytech

One of the first things I learned one summer working in a body shop is that you don't mask around the patch or you will have straight lines that define where you patched.

Scotty

I was planning to just sand down and blend the lines with a fine sand paper before I used the clear coat. With my less than professional materials I think it will have a bad"orange peal" look if I just lightly spray the edges.

[Pete Geither]

You have been all over the site and pay no attention to help you have received. Why not have a professional do the repairs and be done with it ?

[catmandoo62]

scotty's right do'nt tape off close to the fix those lines will be harder to sand then you imagine,also as for the paint in an aerosol can go to o'reilly's they can do this for ya.

[bgkast]

Originally Posted by Pete Geither

You have been all over the site and pay no attention to help you have received. Why not have a professional do the repairs and be done with it ?

I posted this here because the diesel forum seems to get much more traffic than the body work section and "diesel heads" seem to like to help each other out. In the other thread you expressed concern that I would have pealing problems, but did not back this up with any reason why, even when asked.



Edit: You may delete my thread in the body section so I do not have a double post

[bgkast]

Originally Posted by catmandoo62

scotty's right do'nt tape off close to the fix those lines will be harder to sand then you imagine,also as for the paint in an aerosol can go to o'reilly's they can do this for ya.

OK, guess I will try masking a larger area and lightly doing the edges. Should I still wet sand to smooth out the orange peel?

[Pete Geither]

Originally Posted by bgkast

I posted this here because the diesel forum seems to get much more traffic than the body work section and "diesel heads" seem to like to help each other out. In the other thread you expressed concern that I would have pealing problems, but did not back this up with any reason why, even when asked.



Edit: You may delete my thread in the body section so I do not have a double post

Ok,,,, the paint will lift around the edges of the repair because of the incompatibility of the two products. The solvent in the basecoat is usually strong enought to bite into the softer layer underneath and lift those thin edges. At that point you have to stop and sand the edges down again and try putting a sealer on in very thin coats, and you should eventually get a decent repair. The basecoat, not the clear will cause the problem. Sorry for being rude.

[bgkast]

No problem, just a misunderstanding. What sort of sealer would you recommend?

[bgkast]

I just went and took a look at the can. The paint I bought is a Acrylic enamel.

[Pete Geither]

The sealer we use is a part of the Diamont line, which we use,, DC30. Your local autobody supply store should be able to help you with maybe a generic sealer. Enamel is going to be pretty hard to blend in without a major line showing where you ended the paint coverage. A base/clear would be the way to go, even in lacquer as Dean suggested.

[bgkast]

I'll take a look for that sealer. Is there any way to make the enamel work? I would like to use it since I already have it, and the color seems to be dead on. What will the line be caused by, the edge of the masking? Thanks